power trunk popper, 80 Cutlass? and trunk struts?

[silent_orchestra]

Does anybody have part #'s for the trunk popper and switch? (not sure if it's something I can find at one of the parts houses or not, but a # would help, with an application)

I was thinking about swapping the torsion bars in the trunk for the gas struts too.. Does anyone have a part # for those? and are there any brackets needed?


Thanks,
Bobby

 

[mike87442]

check e-bay for the trunk popper,thats where I found mine,a guy puts kits together

 

[silent_orchestra]

my other question is, I'm shaving the trunk lock.. and wanted a back up manual cable incase of power failure.. I was reading a thread somewhere else where FE3X Clone, was talking about the same problem... any ideas?

 

[MR442]

Theyr common I have used one from the larger GM cars with no issue . The real Gbody switch is hiidin in glove box . But I put then under dash and and use them as horn buttons to .

The truck pops up when push so the shock shouldn't be needed. but its your call

 

[silent_orchestra]

Theyr common I have used one from the larger GM cars with no issue . The real Gbody switch is hiidin in glove box . But I put then under dash and and use them as horn buttons to .

The truck pops up when push so the shock shouldn't be needed. but its your call

the shock is more of a clearance with speakers/sub box issue...

but my problem is, I've only seen the shocks on one car, an '81 Cutlass, and don't remember how they attached to the trunk hinge/floor

I'd keep the torrsion bars, but then I lose trunk space...

 

[Black Sheep]

We thought about doing the struts on the FE3X clone, but after looking at it decided it was more hassle than it was worth. And besides, if GM only did it 1 year, what does that tell you :wink: Plus, it's been proven you don't need huge subs to get good sound.

We're still working on the manual trunk release thingy.

Gregg

 

[83hurst-olds]

The struts only seem to last a few years then need replacing. The torsion bars are MUCH better. Like they mentioned above, you don't need big subs for big sound. Also, most often, they sound better if they are not firing directly into the back of the seats anyway. They are generally better directed off to the side.

Another idea for the trunk popper, how about just having some terminals outside of the car (behind the bumper perhaps). That way you could give it some juice and pop it manually/electronically.

Worse case scenario, I have had to go through the back seat once when my girlfriend years ago locked both of our sets of keys in the trunk (thankfully the cab was still unlocked).

 

[Veltboy618]

I have a few trunk poppers & buttons laying around if you are still looking for one

 

[Veltboy618]

The torsion bars are MUCH better.

One of the bars on my car popped out of the little hinge thingy & its seems impossible to get it back in. The trunk will not stay up with just the one side working. Do anyone know how to get it back in?

 

[silent_orchestra]

the extra 6-8" inches or what ever I measured when the torsion bars are gone would be really nice, and I can find decent struts... I had the struts on my Snap On box go out on the top lid, and ordered a set of replacements from a local parts house and they've held that heavy tool box lid up for years, open the lid, leave it up for 8-12hrs close it at the end of the day.. If I just had a part # for the factory struts, I could have them find something..

and as far as subs go, they'll be firing towards the back.. never had subs fire towards the seats... I just want to use as much of that "shelf" in back as possible to keep some trunk space.. and with a 2 DC Audio 12" level 3 subs, in a ported and tuned box I need all the room I can find.. and I'm from the school of thought where bigger is always better.. (as far as stereos and engines go)