I have the Rocket torn down all the way down, and the entire thing is in such good shape I probably could have changed the oil and driven it for another 50k as is. The only things really in need of changing are the valve seals and the camshaft, but both of those probably would have sufficed. Still, it's worth it to me to freshen everything up in order to keep the engine in as good of condition for as long as possible, as there aren't any more Rocket 350s being made to replace it.
Project Knightmobile
- Thread starter IronCastKnight
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You mentioned finding a console for your manual trans swap. I used 1 out of a late 90s s10 blazer (autatic console). My car had floor mounts for the factory console. I used the back console floor mounts to bolt the back of the console down. I just had to shove the console bracket on the console forward. On the front I appoxed metal L brackets to the inside of the console. And bolted them to a nut I tac welded to the floor.( the front factory mounting pad was in the way of my trans hump I installed) just took my time trimming a hole for the shifter to come thru. I found a grinding stone on a rotory tool made a clean edge.It was a little difficult getting it as far forward as I wanted, but I got the console for $5.00 @ a swap meet.this is the only pic I have of it.
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That looks pretty swank, but not exactly the style I'm going for. Thanks for the info, though!
I'm strongly tempted to get one of the Classic Truck Consoles fiberglass shells and customize it, as I'm going manual and may end up relocating the parking brake to a lever, along with remounting my CD player in the console with some decent speakers.
The most difficult part about converting my Cutlass to manual is that I need to maximize the amount of space around the pedals, on account of having giant *ss feet and wearing boots 90% of the time, which means moving pretty much anything movable out of the already cramped foot area.
I'm strongly tempted to get one of the Classic Truck Consoles fiberglass shells and customize it, as I'm going manual and may end up relocating the parking brake to a lever, along with remounting my CD player in the console with some decent speakers.
The most difficult part about converting my Cutlass to manual is that I need to maximize the amount of space around the pedals, on account of having giant *ss feet and wearing boots 90% of the time, which means moving pretty much anything movable out of the already cramped foot area.
Heads up on the kits you buy for these cars the brake and clutch peadals are pretty small. No matter what console you decide on. Apoxing or fiberglassing L brackets on the inside and welding nuts to the floor makes it easy to mount them in.i take the top off, bolt the L bracket to the nut do a dry run and mark the location of the bracket on the console to get the height. Apoxy it on. When it drys set it back in the car and tack weld nuts to the floor.
After a good bit of research and a brief study of Bill Torovato's Max Performance Oldsmobile V-8s book, I've decided to nix the Super Cutlass idea due to hilarious ramping of projected costs when it comes to building up the engine enough so that it doesn't ****ing explode when I put any amount of boost into it.
As such, instead of the ideal 450+ HP blower'd Rocket 350, I'm aiming for a much more reasonable 250-300ish HP naturally aspirated Rocket.
As is, the preliminary build plan is such:
1. Have the crank machined to accept Chevy rods with an offset grind for mild strokering
2. Install forged 4340 Chevy connecting rods, probably Eagle ESP H-Beams, with their wrist pin holes bored for .980 pins
3. Speed Pro flat top forged aluminum pistons to help offset the bigass combustion chambers in my 8 heads
4. Converting to hydraulic roller lifters
5. Whichever COMP roller lifter camshaft is ideal for my engine, which I have no idea of at this point
6. Roller rockers, naturally.
7. Oil restrictors maybe?
8. Having the heads decked to lower the combustion chamber CCs, hopefully down to 70 or so
9. Port match everything, polish the exhaust ports, blend the valve bowls, grind out the EGR bump in the heads, etc
10. Tuner Hooker Super Comp headers, ceramic coated for maximum shiny
11. Fancy paint job with Hirsch Automotive's Olds metallic blue engine paint
As such, instead of the ideal 450+ HP blower'd Rocket 350, I'm aiming for a much more reasonable 250-300ish HP naturally aspirated Rocket.
As is, the preliminary build plan is such:
1. Have the crank machined to accept Chevy rods with an offset grind for mild strokering
2. Install forged 4340 Chevy connecting rods, probably Eagle ESP H-Beams, with their wrist pin holes bored for .980 pins
3. Speed Pro flat top forged aluminum pistons to help offset the bigass combustion chambers in my 8 heads
4. Converting to hydraulic roller lifters
5. Whichever COMP roller lifter camshaft is ideal for my engine, which I have no idea of at this point
6. Roller rockers, naturally.
7. Oil restrictors maybe?
8. Having the heads decked to lower the combustion chamber CCs, hopefully down to 70 or so
9. Port match everything, polish the exhaust ports, blend the valve bowls, grind out the EGR bump in the heads, etc
10. Tuner Hooker Super Comp headers, ceramic coated for maximum shiny
11. Fancy paint job with Hirsch Automotive's Olds metallic blue engine paint
I'm strongly considering one of VFN's W-30 style hoods for the Knightmobile in order to gain the benefits of getting cooler air to the carb and the ram air effect while driving at higher speeds. Putting one on would kind of shoot the sh*t out of keeping it a sleeper though, as nothing quite says either "hotrodder" or "complete moron" like scoops.
Though, considering that it's my car, "complete moron" is probably the best description.
Though, considering that it's my car, "complete moron" is probably the best description.
I too have been very interested in their hoods. Kinda wish they'd sell just scoop therefore anyone could mold them onto their existing hoods but I might be exaggerating a tad bit in my wishful thinking. LolIronCastKnight said:
It certainly would be cheaper, but also a lot more work. Plus, there's always the difficulty of getting fiberglass to mold to steel without cracking. Personally, I'd rather just put up more dosh and get a completely fiberglass hood that features the added benefit of saving some weight, though I only really have that option because I'm fiscally free to just be a complete gearhead.
The Rocket 350 is at the machinists for a fairly comprehensive working over, and I'm feeling all pumped to get it back and start putting it together. My wallet is kicking up a bit of a fuss though, as, based on my calculations, I'm going to end up putting about six thousand into the engine before it's ready to roll. Totally worth it, though. Why spend 15k+ on a brand new car that's largely devoid of both power and character when I can put the same amount of money into an awesome older car and turn it into a nigh-brand new one, with the added benefit of not being like every other car on the road?
Currently, I've decided that pretty much all aftermarket steering wheels aren't to my taste at all. As such, I pulled the stock wheel out and am giving it the epoxy treatment, on account of it currently looking like this:
Sweet Jesus
The Rocket 350 is at the machinists for a fairly comprehensive working over, and I'm feeling all pumped to get it back and start putting it together. My wallet is kicking up a bit of a fuss though, as, based on my calculations, I'm going to end up putting about six thousand into the engine before it's ready to roll. Totally worth it, though. Why spend 15k+ on a brand new car that's largely devoid of both power and character when I can put the same amount of money into an awesome older car and turn it into a nigh-brand new one, with the added benefit of not being like every other car on the road?
Currently, I've decided that pretty much all aftermarket steering wheels aren't to my taste at all. As such, I pulled the stock wheel out and am giving it the epoxy treatment, on account of it currently looking like this:
Sweet Jesus
IronCastKnight said:
That's hilarious you said that..... I only plan to spend about 4 grand on my project but I pretty much said the same thing to my Ole'Lady a few weeks ago to gain her support for my project....
I told her why spend 8,000 on a decent used car that God only knows how it was treated by the previous owner or spend only 4,000 on a Mild/run of the mill/Plain Jane fresh re-built SBC350/THM350 for my 82' Regal.....
I'm anxious to get my refund check so I can get the ball rolling on my project....
Your project is lookin' great.... 8)
<Mike>
Damn, you must really hate aftermarket steering wheels! My dad went through the same exercise with his El Camino. After he got done with the repair he experimented with an airbrush and steel wool to come up with a wood grain look. It's not what most people would do but it's one of a kind and he gets a lot of compliments on it. I think it fits the overall style of his car. Just an idea I thought I'd throw out there.
What are the plans for the engine? Parts list? Power expectations?
What are the plans for the engine? Parts list? Power expectations?
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