Stock bottom end, keep it under 5,000. 😛
But that intake certainly seems like it will support many future modifications. Great deal.
PROJECT "LAID BACK" - 1978 CENTURY 2 DOOR AEROBACK
- Thread starter JAMCAR223
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But that intake certainly seems like it will support many future modifications. Great deal.
Weekly update - More parts gathering, car sitting, battery died... Oh well, no biggie. I'll replace it with a used battery for now, just so I can move the car under it's own power.
Now for the parts.. I have been doing some driving all over Texas to buy (2) more BBB 455's. Friday I drove from Houston to Waco for an almost complete 1975 BBB 455, and another trip Sunday, from Houston to Dallas for a complete 455 and TH 400 transmission. I have (3) 455's, a TH 350c, and a TH 400 transmission. Bought a new heavy duty engine stand with my 20% off coupon from Harbor Freight, and a couple moving dollies, so I can move the transmissions around. I think I have enough cores... time to start getting some machine work done.
Now for the parts.. I have been doing some driving all over Texas to buy (2) more BBB 455's. Friday I drove from Houston to Waco for an almost complete 1975 BBB 455, and another trip Sunday, from Houston to Dallas for a complete 455 and TH 400 transmission. I have (3) 455's, a TH 350c, and a TH 400 transmission. Bought a new heavy duty engine stand with my 20% off coupon from Harbor Freight, and a couple moving dollies, so I can move the transmissions around. I think I have enough cores... time to start getting some machine work done.
I have the (3) 455's on engine stands, and the transmissions on wooden moving dollies.
Small update - As said above, I finally have the (3) 455's on engine stands, and the (2) transmissions on wooden moving dollies. Anybody feel my pain??
It takes (8) steps to get each one to the back porch. I've done this (3) times now in the last month. Roll forward..move one up...
I got a new / used battery today for $50. It was literally brand new, and never installed. Found it on Craigslist about 25 minutes away. Guy said he didn't need it... don't care why..took my tester with me..measured 12.4V..Done! Was there all of 5 minutes. Came home and installed it, car fired right up.
I also talked to Jim Weise, owner of Tri Shield Performance about the machine work for my engine block. He works with the best Buick machinist in the USA - Ron Flood, owner of Cedar Machine. Both of these guys are in Minnesota. I'll be shipping my bare block to him for " proper " machine work. These 455 blocks are known as " thin wall castings " which makes them lighter ( a BBB only weighs @ 25lbs. more than a SBC ), and have a high Nickel content in the casting, which makes them stronger. Like all motors, they have their issues... core shift ( lifter bores, cylinder walls ), transmission dowel pin placement. I will take care of that.. along with the other items on the quote below. Yep, it's $1200 in machine work ( plus shipping a freakin' block both ways to/from Minnesota 😢. And that's only the block... not the crank, not the heads. So I will do a preliminary inspection of the best looking block that I have, to ensure the one I send will be good. Can't throw away the shipping money on a bad block. I have one of the motors torn down to a bare block already, so I will purchase a "middle of the road" bore gauge, and check the cylinders myself, along with chasing all the thread holes in the block. I will also be performing a few oiling mods to the block. I will need to purchase some long drill bits, and some grinding stones.
I'll be hitting the J-yard tomorrow... you never know...until you go.
It takes (8) steps to get each one to the back porch. I've done this (3) times now in the last month. Roll forward..move one up...
I got a new / used battery today for $50. It was literally brand new, and never installed. Found it on Craigslist about 25 minutes away. Guy said he didn't need it... don't care why..took my tester with me..measured 12.4V..Done! Was there all of 5 minutes. Came home and installed it, car fired right up.
I also talked to Jim Weise, owner of Tri Shield Performance about the machine work for my engine block. He works with the best Buick machinist in the USA - Ron Flood, owner of Cedar Machine. Both of these guys are in Minnesota. I'll be shipping my bare block to him for " proper " machine work. These 455 blocks are known as " thin wall castings " which makes them lighter ( a BBB only weighs @ 25lbs. more than a SBC ), and have a high Nickel content in the casting, which makes them stronger. Like all motors, they have their issues... core shift ( lifter bores, cylinder walls ), transmission dowel pin placement. I will take care of that.. along with the other items on the quote below. Yep, it's $1200 in machine work ( plus shipping a freakin' block both ways to/from Minnesota 😢. And that's only the block... not the crank, not the heads. So I will do a preliminary inspection of the best looking block that I have, to ensure the one I send will be good. Can't throw away the shipping money on a bad block. I have one of the motors torn down to a bare block already, so I will purchase a "middle of the road" bore gauge, and check the cylinders myself, along with chasing all the thread holes in the block. I will also be performing a few oiling mods to the block. I will need to purchase some long drill bits, and some grinding stones.
I'll be hitting the J-yard tomorrow... you never know...until you go.
Careful with that drilling, a little goes a long way, and a lot will screw ya big time.
Try and use a drill you can set the speed on so its not dependent on how hard you're pressing the trigger.
Try and use a drill you can set the speed on so its not dependent on how hard you're pressing the trigger.
https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/400-430-455-block-id-prep-and-oiling-mods.214613/
I'll be following this process, using all the tools described here. All (3) 455's I have are 1975 models.
I'll be following this process, using all the tools described here. All (3) 455's I have are 1975 models.
I just got back from the J-yard, and picked up a few things.
- 1985 Fiero side mirrors. They should bolt on nicely. The profile / contour of the mirrors & doors match up pretty dam well. I may even shape the contour of the mirror housing a little, for an exact fit.
- I got a few Buick emblems off a early 90's Century. I MIGHT use them. Paint the CENTURY ones black. Use the round ones on the B pillar trim. My car has a hole in the header panel for the hood ornament, but it was missing when I got the car. I will probably just fill the hole, but this emblem was already removed ( complete w/ nut ), and sitting in the passenger seat at the J-yard. Mine..
I went to Harbor Freight for their 3-day Parking lot sale. The battery tender was $5, and the multi-meter was free with any purchase.
The Buick owners manual holder/sleeve was free. I will put my registration, insurance card, inspection, etc. in there.
That's how I do it....
- 1985 Fiero side mirrors. They should bolt on nicely. The profile / contour of the mirrors & doors match up pretty dam well. I may even shape the contour of the mirror housing a little, for an exact fit.
- I got a few Buick emblems off a early 90's Century. I MIGHT use them. Paint the CENTURY ones black. Use the round ones on the B pillar trim. My car has a hole in the header panel for the hood ornament, but it was missing when I got the car. I will probably just fill the hole, but this emblem was already removed ( complete w/ nut ), and sitting in the passenger seat at the J-yard. Mine..
I went to Harbor Freight for their 3-day Parking lot sale. The battery tender was $5, and the multi-meter was free with any purchase.
The Buick owners manual holder/sleeve was free. I will put my registration, insurance card, inspection, etc. in there.
That's how I do it....
An hour later... So I was putting my receipt for the Fiero mirrors in my file, and saw an ad I had printed from Craigslist a month ago. It was for a pair of 1970 model heads ( these are the preferred casting w/ smaller chambers to increase compression, and the ones that Stage 1 motors use). They were complete, but needed a rework. He was asking $350. I had just bought the car, and some of the interior pieces, and could not justify the expense at the time.
I have done this before... you see the ad post was already a month old at the time I saw it, so you know there was not alot of interest. So before the ad expires I will hit the "contact" tab to expose the seller's phone #, then print it in hopes the item does not sell. That gives me a chance to contact at a later time, if I choose to do so.
So i decided to take a chance and see if he still had the heads. Sure enough he does... I asked him if was interested in a trade for a shop fan ( I had got 3 nice Dayton shop fans from work for free, about 4 months ago ). He immediately says .. "yes, I need one for the shop". I say "Done deal. I can be there in 2 hours". I have about $10 in gas wrapped up in this deal. 😀😀😀. That's how I do it!
These heads will have the valves unshrouded, larger Stage 1 valves, bronze guides, a 4 angle valve job, and a port match. About the best I can do with these factory iron heads.
I have done this before... you see the ad post was already a month old at the time I saw it, so you know there was not alot of interest. So before the ad expires I will hit the "contact" tab to expose the seller's phone #, then print it in hopes the item does not sell. That gives me a chance to contact at a later time, if I choose to do so.
So i decided to take a chance and see if he still had the heads. Sure enough he does... I asked him if was interested in a trade for a shop fan ( I had got 3 nice Dayton shop fans from work for free, about 4 months ago ). He immediately says .. "yes, I need one for the shop". I say "Done deal. I can be there in 2 hours". I have about $10 in gas wrapped up in this deal. 😀😀😀. That's how I do it!
These heads will have the valves unshrouded, larger Stage 1 valves, bronze guides, a 4 angle valve job, and a port match. About the best I can do with these factory iron heads.
Good scores! Its an issue with the 350, dont know about the 455, 68-73 350s had different water jackets than 74+, so be aware of that possibility on the BB. I searched a little and havent come up with anything saying you can't..
According to this, http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/75-455-block-and-70-heads.18883/, you can swap old heads onto newer block, but not new heads on older block. Not that youd want to. So you should be good.
According to this, http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/75-455-block-and-70-heads.18883/, you can swap old heads onto newer block, but not new heads on older block. Not that youd want to. So you should be good.
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