PROJECT " LAID BACK 2 " - 1978 SALON 2 DOOR AEROBACK

JAMCAR223

JAMCAR223

Royal Smart Person
Jun 6, 2014
1,186
113
Houston, TX.
https://www.edelbrock.com/heat-insulator-gasket-for-divided-4150-square-bore-0-320-thick-9266.html
This should help in solving any potential heat soak issues, along with common sense fuel line routing. This will be my 1st Olds engine, so I'm willing/expecting to learn a little from this build. The good news is I have options. I have 3 Q-jets on the shelf, and a buddy has a couple Holleys in a box, also.

Will a 1" spacer fit under the hood with a 14x3" air cleaner? Or is a 2" filter in order?
 
olds307 and 403

olds307 and 403

Geezer
Oct 14, 2008
5,993
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
Which intake, the RPM? It may need a 2" filter.
 
JAMCAR223

JAMCAR223

Royal Smart Person
Jun 6, 2014
1,186
113
Houston, TX.
JAMCAR223

JAMCAR223

Royal Smart Person
Jun 6, 2014
1,186
113
Houston, TX.
The car has been sitting for a while now, but I have it on a battery tender, and have been monitoring the battery, and starting it every couple weeks. I have to be able to move it to get the GN out of the garage. Since the last update, a few more parts were gathered over the last couple of weeks. I got almost all the parts to complete the serpentine belt conversion on the 403. I have both accessory brackets, diesel reverse rotation water pump, water pump pulley, Mustang 5.0 crank pulley, Chevy truck power steering pump, Dorman #300-200 power steering pulley, idler pulley, tensioner, CS130 alternator pig tail, AC delete pulley, and a really nice AC compressor I got from the Jyard today, and all hardware. At this point, I need a new alternator, and the conversion brackets from Supreme Machine. Those 2 parts alone will cost me $250, so I will probably wait until I get a little closer on the engine build before I buy those parts.

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Obviously, I will clean and paint all pieces required to make this conversion as clean as possible.

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I tried my best to capture the Ford part # on the crank pulley, if anyone else searches for the info to make the conversion in the future. It's from a 86-93 5.0L Fox body Mustang. I have heard that others will work... including F-150 truck applications with the same powertrain. I cannot confirm this. When this conversion is actually installed, I will cover every piece, and it's origin, in detail.

I also got a necessary piece to make a correct Manual transmission conversion. It's a rare factory GM manual steering column from a 1978 Salon. Even the same color as mine. It needs a little cosmetic work (no problem), but it even came with an original key. NICE!! I got a really fair deal on this rare piece ( Thanks Joe V. ), and as usual, out of respect for him, I will not disclose the price.

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It came with nice original pigtails ( If I need them ). I will repaint this column, and replace the turn signal lever. Remember guys, I have that really nice original steering wheel to top this off. ( Look back a couple of pages ). Since I'm thinking about it... does this old style turn signal lever just unscrew?? I can't remember. I know the tilt levers do...

I have a deal already made for the factory original GM manual pedal assembly. Coming soon!
 
spidereyes455

spidereyes455

G-Body Guru
Mar 6, 2013
545
93
Northeastern PA
If I recall correctly there is a screw under the lock plate that holds those early ones to the switch, the later ones with wiper controls are the one's that just pull out.
 
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Reactions: Texas82GP
pagrunt

pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
5,698
113
Elderton, Pa
My '78 stick column I have for my '81 has the "bayonet" type that can just be pulled out/pushed in & accepts my original '81 lever. I've also had it in the '86 floor shift column I was using when I first did the stick conversion.
 
JAMCAR223

JAMCAR223

Royal Smart Person
Jun 6, 2014
1,186
113
Houston, TX.
If I recall correctly there is a screw under the lock plate that holds those early ones to the switch, the later ones with wiper controls are the one's that just pull out.
That's what I was thinking, also. I will google it it. I'm sure there in a dozen videos showing the removal.
 
olds307 and 403

olds307 and 403

Geezer
Oct 14, 2008
5,993
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
You need metric bolts to attach the pulley to water pump FYI. I tried putting in fine thread standard studs like a regular Olds water pump a few years back, it didn't go so well. I will have run a tap through two holes:(. I have Larry's brackets as you know but between shipping which wasn't bad and exchange, over $300 Canadian. Olds belt system is a frustrating mess. Mostly because there us 4 water pump lengths and people mix and match parts. I end up with custom fixes. The Serpentine set up looks neater and is more efficient. Don't forget the brace on the passenger side to the intake, I think I still have it, I may make a custom one, if not. Either way I also need a new alternator, this 94 amp 12SI has never been right and has a bearing going anyways. I am planning on a 105 amp CS130 along with pigtails, a new A/C clutch, old one connector broke and need my 351W truck pulley from my Daughter's boy friend, he is Ford truck crazy. My Wife gives him a hard time, her Dad was a Chevy guy. Dam $700 order to RA is killing me, I need $700 to get parts for all the junk I own. Those columns are no doubt rare. Too bad the T-50 wasn't replaced by the T-5 factory for our cars.
 
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JAMCAR223

JAMCAR223

Royal Smart Person
Jun 6, 2014
1,186
113
Houston, TX.
It's been (3) weeks since I updated this thread, but I have acquired some more parts. I got the Dorman # 300-200 power steering pulley, for the serpentine conversion. I also purchased (2) transmissions from a Forum Member - (1) BOP Turbo 350, and (1) BOP Turbo 400. I now have automatic, and standard transmissions to back up the 403 swap. I did a partial tear down of the 403 this afternoon, to get a better idea of the condition of the rotating assembly, and was very pleased at what I saw. It all came apart very easily. No broken bolts, stripped threads, etc. I bagged and tagged all the hardware. The cylinders were in really good shape for a 40 year old engine. I could barely feel any kind of ring ridge on the cylinders. The engine turns over very smoothly by hand, and the pistons have just a light coat of carbon. The spark plugs looked good enough to reuse, LOL. So, I'm thinking I can get away with a standard bore rebuild, IF mic checks confirm my suspicions. Today, I did some research on some machine shops in my area, and have narrowed down my list to (4) potential shops. I would like to hot tank, magnaflux, then hone, and "ring & bearing" this short block.
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I sprayed it down with some oil, and went to Harbor Freight and bought ANOTHER engine stand. You guys may remember this motor came with an engine storage cradle, but I need to be able to turn this thing over so I can remove the oil pan, and check the condition of the crank. I'm fixing to assemble the new stand after I post this, so I can get it on the stand tomorrow.

I have also got a deal going for an aluminum hood for this car. Do I NEED it? Nope... Do I WANT it? Yep... I will try to reduce weight where I can, to improve my power to weight ratio, and mileage. I'll be using an aluminum hood, lightweight hinges, aluminum radiator, aluminum intake, aluminum rear drums, and hopefully... aluminum bumper supports, if I can find them. I have a couple things in the works for my next installment. Have a nice weekend everybody, and thanks for following along. (y)
 

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