PROJECT " LAID BACK 2 " - 1978 SALON 2 DOOR AEROBACK

JAMCAR223

JAMCAR223

G-Body Guru
Jun 6, 2014
642
93
Houston, TX.
https://www.edelbrock.com/heat-insulator-gasket-for-divided-4150-square-bore-0-320-thick-9266.html
This should help in solving any potential heat soak issues, along with common sense fuel line routing. This will be my 1st Olds engine, so I'm willing/expecting to learn a little from this build. The good news is I have options. I have 3 Q-jets on the shelf, and a buddy has a couple Holleys in a box, also.

Will a 1" spacer fit under the hood with a 14x3" air cleaner? Or is a 2" filter in order?
 
olds307 and 403

olds307 and 403

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 14, 2008
4,539
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
Which intake, the RPM? It may need a 2" filter.
 
JAMCAR223

JAMCAR223

G-Body Guru
Jun 6, 2014
642
93
Houston, TX.
JAMCAR223

JAMCAR223

G-Body Guru
Jun 6, 2014
642
93
Houston, TX.
The car has been sitting for a while now, but I have it on a battery tender, and have been monitoring the battery, and starting it every couple weeks. I have to be able to move it to get the GN out of the garage. Since the last update, a few more parts were gathered over the last couple of weeks. I got almost all the parts to complete the serpentine belt conversion on the 403. I have both accessory brackets, diesel reverse rotation water pump, water pump pulley, Mustang 5.0 crank pulley, Chevy truck power steering pump, Dorman #300-200 power steering pulley, idler pulley, tensioner, CS130 alternator pig tail, AC delete pulley, and a really nice AC compressor I got from the Jyard today, and all hardware. At this point, I need a new alternator, and the conversion brackets from Supreme Machine. Those 2 parts alone will cost me $250, so I will probably wait until I get a little closer on the engine build before I buy those parts.

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Obviously, I will clean and paint all pieces required to make this conversion as clean as possible.

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I tried my best to capture the Ford part # on the crank pulley, if anyone else searches for the info to make the conversion in the future. It's from a 86-93 5.0L Fox body Mustang. I have heard that others will work... including F-150 truck applications with the same powertrain. I cannot confirm this. When this conversion is actually installed, I will cover every piece, and it's origin, in detail.

I also got a necessary piece to make a correct Manual transmission conversion. It's a rare factory GM manual steering column from a 1978 Salon. Even the same color as mine. It needs a little cosmetic work (no problem), but it even came with an original key. NICE!! I got a really fair deal on this rare piece ( Thanks Joe V. ), and as usual, out of respect for him, I will not disclose the price.

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It came with nice original pigtails ( If I need them ). I will repaint this column, and replace the turn signal lever. Remember guys, I have that really nice original steering wheel to top this off. ( Look back a couple of pages ). Since I'm thinking about it... does this old style turn signal lever just unscrew?? I can't remember. I know the tilt levers do...

I have a deal already made for the factory original GM manual pedal assembly. Coming soon!
 
spidereyes455

spidereyes455

Master Mechanic
Mar 6, 2013
345
63
Northeastern PA
If I recall correctly there is a screw under the lock plate that holds those early ones to the switch, the later ones with wiper controls are the one's that just pull out.
 
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pagrunt

pagrunt

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 14, 2014
4,042
113
Shelocta, Pa
My '78 stick column I have for my '81 has the "bayonet" type that can just be pulled out/pushed in & accepts my original '81 lever. I've also had it in the '86 floor shift column I was using when I first did the stick conversion.
 
JAMCAR223

JAMCAR223

G-Body Guru
Jun 6, 2014
642
93
Houston, TX.
If I recall correctly there is a screw under the lock plate that holds those early ones to the switch, the later ones with wiper controls are the one's that just pull out.
That's what I was thinking, also. I will google it it. I'm sure there in a dozen videos showing the removal.
 
olds307 and 403

olds307 and 403

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 14, 2008
4,539
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
You need metric bolts to attach the pulley to water pump FYI. I tried putting in fine thread standard studs like a regular Olds water pump a few years back, it didn't go so well. I will have run a tap through two holes:(. I have Larry's brackets as you know but between shipping which wasn't bad and exchange, over $300 Canadian. Olds belt system is a frustrating mess. Mostly because there us 4 water pump lengths and people mix and match parts. I end up with custom fixes. The Serpentine set up looks neater and is more efficient. Don't forget the brace on the passenger side to the intake, I think I still have it, I may make a custom one, if not. Either way I also need a new alternator, this 94 amp 12SI has never been right and has a bearing going anyways. I am planning on a 105 amp CS130 along with pigtails, a new A/C clutch, old one connector broke and need my 351W truck pulley from my Daughter's boy friend, he is Ford truck crazy. My Wife gives him a hard time, her Dad was a Chevy guy. Dam $700 order to RA is killing me, I need $700 to get parts for all the junk I own. Those columns are no doubt rare. Too bad the T-50 wasn't replaced by the T-5 factory for our cars.
 
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JAMCAR223

JAMCAR223

G-Body Guru
Jun 6, 2014
642
93
Houston, TX.
It's been (3) weeks since I updated this thread, but I have acquired some more parts. I got the Dorman # 300-200 power steering pulley, for the serpentine conversion. I also purchased (2) transmissions from a Forum Member - (1) BOP Turbo 350, and (1) BOP Turbo 400. I now have automatic, and standard transmissions to back up the 403 swap. I did a partial tear down of the 403 this afternoon, to get a better idea of the condition of the rotating assembly, and was very pleased at what I saw. It all came apart very easily. No broken bolts, stripped threads, etc. I bagged and tagged all the hardware. The cylinders were in really good shape for a 40 year old engine. I could barely feel any kind of ring ridge on the cylinders. The engine turns over very smoothly by hand, and the pistons have just a light coat of carbon. The spark plugs looked good enough to reuse, LOL. So, I'm thinking I can get away with a standard bore rebuild, IF mic checks confirm my suspicions. Today, I did some research on some machine shops in my area, and have narrowed down my list to (4) potential shops. I would like to hot tank, magnaflux, then hone, and "ring & bearing" this short block.
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I sprayed it down with some oil, and went to Harbor Freight and bought ANOTHER engine stand. You guys may remember this motor came with an engine storage cradle, but I need to be able to turn this thing over so I can remove the oil pan, and check the condition of the crank. I'm fixing to assemble the new stand after I post this, so I can get it on the stand tomorrow.

I have also got a deal going for an aluminum hood for this car. Do I NEED it? Nope... Do I WANT it? Yep... I will try to reduce weight where I can, to improve my power to weight ratio, and mileage. I'll be using an aluminum hood, lightweight hinges, aluminum radiator, aluminum intake, aluminum rear drums, and hopefully... aluminum bumper supports, if I can find them. I have a couple things in the works for my next installment. Have a nice weekend everybody, and thanks for following along. (y)
 

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