PROJECT " LAID BACK 2 " - 1978 SALON 2 DOOR AEROBACK
- Thread starter JAMCAR223
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This week was a good one. I got some more parts, and got some research done.
I got the 403 on the stand... oiled, and bagged. I have been researching engine specs, such as bore, stroke, deck height, push rod length, crank journal size, bearing clearances, crank end play, ring gap, torque specs, etc. I will not be taken advantage of at the machine shop, lol. I have been looking at micrometers, and cylinder bore dial gauges, plastigauge, and feeler gauges. I WILL be checking their work.
Now to the parts... I bought a pretty nice tail light lens for $22 shipped on Ebay. No chips or cracks, and can be used on either side. I have not even tried to clean it yet, but I will polish it and use a black paint pen to highlight the border and the Rocket.
I also bought a power trunk release solenoid for $33 shipped on Ebay. It's also in great shape, and it works. I have many release buttons, and have gotten used to having it on my GN, so I will add this option myself.
I also bought some automatic transmission parts. I got this black powdercoated pan with drain plug, and a black billet flexible dip stick. Both are brand new in the package. Both for $20! I went to meet the guy at the mall, and he also gave me a brand new filter - sweet! That's worth $12 by itself.
I just got home from meeting another guy, and bought a Metro #MW00101 trunk seal, brand new in the box. I also got both door panel dew strips. Also brand new, never installed. All for $40.
That's it for this update. I already have things in the works for next week. Stay tuned...
I got the 403 on the stand... oiled, and bagged. I have been researching engine specs, such as bore, stroke, deck height, push rod length, crank journal size, bearing clearances, crank end play, ring gap, torque specs, etc. I will not be taken advantage of at the machine shop, lol. I have been looking at micrometers, and cylinder bore dial gauges, plastigauge, and feeler gauges. I WILL be checking their work.
Now to the parts... I bought a pretty nice tail light lens for $22 shipped on Ebay. No chips or cracks, and can be used on either side. I have not even tried to clean it yet, but I will polish it and use a black paint pen to highlight the border and the Rocket.
I also bought a power trunk release solenoid for $33 shipped on Ebay. It's also in great shape, and it works. I have many release buttons, and have gotten used to having it on my GN, so I will add this option myself.
I also bought some automatic transmission parts. I got this black powdercoated pan with drain plug, and a black billet flexible dip stick. Both are brand new in the package. Both for $20! I went to meet the guy at the mall, and he also gave me a brand new filter - sweet! That's worth $12 by itself.
I just got home from meeting another guy, and bought a Metro #MW00101 trunk seal, brand new in the box. I also got both door panel dew strips. Also brand new, never installed. All for $40.
That's it for this update. I already have things in the works for next week. Stay tuned...
Thanks for the question. I don't get too many, lol. This is my first Oldsmobile, and I'm a guy who likes to do as much of my own work as possible. With that said, I need to know the "math" on this motor BEFORE I drop it off to a machine shop. An educated customer will usually get better work, and a better outcome. By knowing the math, I can check the work performed by the machine shop, and avoid surprises. This is no race motor by any means, but we all know that proper machine work is key to engine longevity. I haven't picked a shop just yet, but I have (4) reputable ones on my list. I will interview them, and pick one accordingly.
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So most of you who follow this thread already know about the lightweight body parts I got last week, but it's part of the build thread so some of this will be redundant. I'll make it short. I got an awesome deal on a powder coated aluminum core support. Cobb webs included!
This is it all cleaned up. $225. I'm a happy camper!
I also got an aluminum front bumper support. It's in great shape, too.
I'll clean it up with a ScotchBrite pad, but it is straight.
I have an aluminum hood, and lightweight hinges being shipped by Fastenal ( fingers crossed ), and should be here late next week. I have also struck a deal with that same person for the aluminum rear bumper support, but need to wait until I get paid again before I can pull the trigger on that.
I did spend about 4 hours over the last 3 days getting all the front sheet metal hardware cleaned up. I bought a new brass coated wire wheel for my bench grinder, and went through 4 pairs of gloves ( luckily I get then for free at work ). It takes some time, but I'm happy with the outcome, and my pliers are nice and clean, Lol. I cleaned 102 pieces. 7mm for harness retainers, 10mm for inner fenders, and radiator top plate, 13mm for fenders, core support and battery tray, 15mm for main fender bolts, fender shims, and coarse thread ground screws.
As you can see there is still some oxidation in the hard to get to areas. A little soaking in vinegar, or Evaporust will take care of that, before I paint all the hardware. For now, I put all of it in a sealed plastic container, and then placed the container in a large Ziploc bag, and moved it inside the house so rust does not start on these bare bolts.
Glad that's over...
This is it all cleaned up. $225. I'm a happy camper!
I also got an aluminum front bumper support. It's in great shape, too.
I'll clean it up with a ScotchBrite pad, but it is straight.
I have an aluminum hood, and lightweight hinges being shipped by Fastenal ( fingers crossed ), and should be here late next week. I have also struck a deal with that same person for the aluminum rear bumper support, but need to wait until I get paid again before I can pull the trigger on that.
I did spend about 4 hours over the last 3 days getting all the front sheet metal hardware cleaned up. I bought a new brass coated wire wheel for my bench grinder, and went through 4 pairs of gloves ( luckily I get then for free at work ). It takes some time, but I'm happy with the outcome, and my pliers are nice and clean, Lol. I cleaned 102 pieces. 7mm for harness retainers, 10mm for inner fenders, and radiator top plate, 13mm for fenders, core support and battery tray, 15mm for main fender bolts, fender shims, and coarse thread ground screws.
As you can see there is still some oxidation in the hard to get to areas. A little soaking in vinegar, or Evaporust will take care of that, before I paint all the hardware. For now, I put all of it in a sealed plastic container, and then placed the container in a large Ziploc bag, and moved it inside the house so rust does not start on these bare bolts.
Glad that's over...
Aren't the Butless lighter to begin with? Should be around 3000 pounds, not? Too bad GM didn't add factory spoilers and wheel flares along their HO 5L for the Olds or even better the Turbo 6 in the Buick. Imagine the Butless GN against a Mustang LX, a much fairer weight comparison and total slaughter. I don't blame you on checking work an Olds V8 but at least it is a SBO, many more bottom end issues on BBO builds. Make sure the center exhaust guides have at least .0028" clearance, mine were around .003". Many shops set them too tight, our big crossovers create a lot of heat and stuck valves. Otherwise, .0025" on everything but #5 should be acceptable for the bottom end.
base curb weight: 1488 kg / 3280 lbs ( 260 ci / auto trans )
I just want it as light as possible, without cutting it up. So I will-
- swap aluminum core support
- swap aluminum front bumper support
- swap aluminum rear bumper support
- swap aluminum hood
- swap lightweight hood hinges
- swap aluminum rear drums
- swap aluminum intake manifold
- swap aluminum/plastic radiator
- swap lightweight tubular stainless shorty headers
- swap lightweight open element air cleaner
- swap aluminum accessory (serpentine) brackets
- swap R4 radial ac compressor
- remove cruise control assembly
- remove egr assembly
- remove vapor canister assembly
* I have a junkyard aluminum drive shaft I may try to use, as well
I'll be lucky if all this = 100lbs, but 100 is 100, and I don't have to worry about rust/corrosion on these parts.
I just want it as light as possible, without cutting it up. So I will-
- swap aluminum core support
- swap aluminum front bumper support
- swap aluminum rear bumper support
- swap aluminum hood
- swap lightweight hood hinges
- swap aluminum rear drums
- swap aluminum intake manifold
- swap aluminum/plastic radiator
- swap lightweight tubular stainless shorty headers
- swap lightweight open element air cleaner
- swap aluminum accessory (serpentine) brackets
- swap R4 radial ac compressor
- remove cruise control assembly
- remove egr assembly
- remove vapor canister assembly
* I have a junkyard aluminum drive shaft I may try to use, as well
I'll be lucky if all this = 100lbs, but 100 is 100, and I don't have to worry about rust/corrosion on these parts.
If I lost 100 pounds allll my cars would be lighter😒.
I took advantage of the Rock Auto Clearance Sale, and placed an order for things I know I will need for the Cutlass. I ordered these on Thursday, and they just arrived.
Parts (9) total = $32.32 + 7.99 shipping = $40.31 Heck of a deal...
MCQUAY-NORRIS ES2033RE x(2) - outer tie rods
MCQUAY-NORRIS ES2033R x(2) - inner tie rods
MCQUAY-NORRIS FA1013 - idler arm
TRICO 182 x(2) - wiper blades
RAYBESTOS 472RR - brake shoes
WAGNER F117067 - brake springs/hardware
Parts (9) total = $32.32 + 7.99 shipping = $40.31 Heck of a deal...
MCQUAY-NORRIS ES2033RE x(2) - outer tie rods
MCQUAY-NORRIS ES2033R x(2) - inner tie rods
MCQUAY-NORRIS FA1013 - idler arm
TRICO 182 x(2) - wiper blades
RAYBESTOS 472RR - brake shoes
WAGNER F117067 - brake springs/hardware
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