BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
did you change the battery to the passenger side because on my 1980 442 it is on the drivers side ? you have a great thread have a good and safe Thanksgiving Jeff from Winnipeg

Olds 307 gets driver side, Chev 350 goes passenger

sorry it looks like valve covers from a Chevy the oil fill for a rocket is in the front mine is a 350 rocket that is why I was asking have a good weekend and happy Thanksgiving to all the Canadian members Jeff from Winnipeg

Thanks Jeff, I appreciate the kind words.
I did not swap the battery to the passenger side. As Bruce mentioned above, the Chevy powered cars like mine all had the battery located on the passenger side because that’s the side the starter is located on. It keeps the positive battery cable that goes to the starter much shorter that way.

All Olds engines have the starter located on the driver’s side, so that why your 350 Olds powered 442 has the battery on the opposite side.

Happy Thanksgiving to you as well!
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
“Strike while the iron is hot” they say.
Whoever the hell “they” are, but ok.

So to that end I’m still rolling right along on this passenger fender, putting in a couple of hours each night.
With the antenna hole welded up, I gave the area a couple skims of filler and putty, then blocked them out nice and flat and smooth.
Finished with 120 grit, as per my usual:

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I mentioned earlier that there was some damage to the lower rear from a previous owner. This is the area in question, it’s a bit tough to see due to it being white, but you can still kinda see some of it:

05D864FC-6FF8-4370-8CBD-8613851C09B8.jpeg


Earlier when I had the engine and inner fenderwell out to remove the antenna, I had taken one of my heavy flat dollies to the area and tried to gently coax out as much of the dent as I could. It was more or less successful, I got it to look better than it was at least. It spider webbed the paint a little bit, but at the time it was good enough for me to live with until I could fix it properly. Now is that time.

Moving forward, it was time to start removing trim so I could weld up the holes that wouldn’t be needed. I removed the large chrome trim pieces from the bottom of the fender, these won’t be going back on. I will keep the long thin chrome trim that covers the rocker panels, but that’s it. The larger pieces are just too big and gawdy for my liking, plus they’re perfect rust breeding grounds.

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While I was at it and giving the entire panel a close going over, I found another crease I had not even realized was there. Again, it’s tough to see in the pic but it’s just above my fingernail. Great, yet another thing to fix:

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With that done, it was time to strip the rest of the lower rear part of the fender down to bare metal. 80 grit on the DA and about an hour later accomplished this.

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I also stripped the inner wheelwell flange, it was heavily rock chipped and had several holes in it from the wheelwell trim and the mud flaps that were on it when I got it.
Hole-y!!!

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Time for the metal glue gun. I got the holes in the outer skin closed up, along with all the ones in the inner flange. The hole you see still left there needs to remain, it’s for mounting the front of the chrome rocker panel trim:

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Now to address that damage. The deepest part of the dent oddly enough, was right next to the wheel opening. I marked off the area that needed working with a Sharpie, then broke out the stud gun and welded on a series of porcupine quills:

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I coaxed out the area with the slide hammer on the studs, working my way from the deepest damage out to the shallowest. This actually required a second smaller row of studs to be added next to the first:

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After a feel with my hand, I found a small bulge above and to the left. I gently worked it out with my body hammer, you can see the marks it left:

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If anyone is going to attempt a repair like this, the thing to keep in mind is you’re not trying to “hammer” the bulge down. If you use a slapping motion with the hammer, you can persuade the metal to move from its highest point to its lowest, allowing you to even everything out. I’ve done this many times before in the past, and it’s very effective.

Once I was satisfied that the area was pulled back out and adequately repaired, the studs were removed and the repaired spot ground with 36 grit on the air angle grinder. A few light passes with a finer 40 grit disc got the entire lower part ready for a skim of filler:

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That’s it for now guys, I’ll be getting back on it bright and early tomorrow morning (likely today for most of you that are reading this). There’s lots more than need to be done on it yet!

Thanks for following along.

D.
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
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Beautiful body work Donovan. It doesn't even look like it needs any filler.
 
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Oct 14, 2008
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Under the hood always looks the best on my vehicles and I have found the VHT high temp paints fairly decent. Headers will probably wake up that motor even more but non rusty or any manifolds are rarely seen these days.
 
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Longroof79

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Oct 14, 2008
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Gainesville, Fl
Great work as always, my friend. You never cease to amaze me. :)
 
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Oct 14, 2008
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Awesome work Donovan.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,168
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Rare day off work today, so I decided to take advantage of it.

I’ve been continuing to plug away on this fender, yesterday I got the remainder of the old paint and primer sanded off. That took several hours by itself. Today, I started by addressing some of the little areas, sanding the thin slivers of paint from the edges, stripping the undersides of the bottom etc.

I removed the fender mounted indicator and pushed their associated fibre optic cables inside to keep them out of the way, and put the front of the car up on stands. This’ll make it easier to work on the lower sections:

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This is the spot where the indicator mounts, I found a small dent nearby that I took care of already also:

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Here’s the area around the marker/cornering light opening, the green tape is to highlight where there’s some damage that needs to be repaired. In this case, it’s the crease I noted earlier as well as a spot where the wheelwell trim appears to have dug into and actually dented the fender:

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The spots where I welded up the holes and repaired the previous damage needed a skim of filler, here’s the first application before it gets blocked out:

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Pretty ugly right now, but most of it will be sanded right back off. Gotta start somewhere. I’m actually doing this update real quick as I’m waiting for the filler to harden enough to start working it.

Little by little, I’m making progress. More to come when I get to modifying the marker light area to become flush mount like I did with the back ones.

That’s it for now, thanks all.

D.
 
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sportriderOK

Greasemonkey
Mar 3, 2016
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I was wondering if you were going the flush route on the front as well. That's going to be a great update!
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,168
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Been having a bit of a hard time finding more than an hour or two in a row without interruptions so far the rest of this week, but I’ve still been picking away at it a bit at a time.
Finally got finished with making The Worlds Most Expensive talcum powder...

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...tonight on the back part of the fender though. Anyone that’s ever done any bodywork will totally understand what I mean. The stuff is worse than drywall dust.

Ready for epoxy and high build. Looks like there’s more there than there actually is:

2B9A5B78-2BE1-4FD0-8E10-F69F7994EA33.jpeg


I’ve got a couple of crusty filler overhangs on the edge of the door, but that’s no biggie because the doors will be coming off anyways, and possibly (probably?) be replaced.
Seems a good place to leave off for a couple days, next is to start creating cardboard templates for the marker lights and transferring them to sheet metal.

Shortest
Update
Ever.

D.
 
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