we CeraKote a lot of hardware @work.it's hard to beat,it's DTM,low low film build be it the bake on or air dry versions.seeing that you just had your headers coated maybe that's something you could look into especially for the big block duty.
BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)
- Thread starter Rktpwrd
- Start date
Looks good Donovan, I am surprised you couldn't fit 2.5" duals under the passenger hump, even a compact X pipe fit on my 88. Of course that was with shorty headers. Either way full length headers and true 2.5" exhaust is way easier with a dual hump crossmember and should give a noticeable power bump. Curious how that powder coat will hold up.
Oh absolutely I could. I just don’t really want to, especially if I can buy something decent and comparable for a reasonable price. The Jegs crossmember for example, is only $170ish US. I’d have a hard time buying the materials, cutting and welding it, and having it powder coated as well here for that price.
I’d have no problem with building one from scratch, IF I wanted another project right now. Afterall, I did it for the crossmember on The Juggernaut. No, like I said, I think I’ll end up just end up notching the factory crossmember and calling it a day.
That’s an interesting idea and good info Chris, thank you. I’ll look into it. CeraKote is fairly new to me, I’m used to powder and ceramic coating being a lot thicker so I didn’t think it was an option. Powder coating in threads is not a fun problem to deal with.
Thanks Christian. Maybe I wasn’t clear, I did have both 2 1/2” pipes run down the passenger side under the crossmember hump. I just don’t want the redesigned system to be run like that.
Definitely agreed that the difference in power should be very noticeable, when that mild little small block can breathe freely and not be strangled anymore. Actually, it’s quite remarkable that the car was as quick as it was with how poorly the front half of the exhaust system was.
not to split millimeters here but the air dry is the thinnest of the two.it's so thin it comes out to about one and a half coats for coverage.depending on what your vendor is supporting really.it adds a touch of Lubricity as well compared to other coatings we're used to.it originated as firearm coating and it works well.
Look at the 80's H/O and 442 exhaust. Guys have gained a second in the 1/4 with just dual exhaust, not even with headers, just off horrible Olds manifolds. If the front flows terrible, who cares how the back half flows? Sounds like a good coating for the headers. Imagine the tire smoke now😉.
Having done all three options: Buy, Build, or Bastardize.
#3 is going to be most prudent course of action. Weld a brace onto the back side before beginning. And then chop or bash your way to freedom. I'd aim for a 5-6" wide pass through.
#3 is going to be most prudent course of action. Weld a brace onto the back side before beginning. And then chop or bash your way to freedom. I'd aim for a 5-6" wide pass through.
Well after cursing the paint techs on the idiot box at Kindigit Design on Bitchin’ Rides tonight, I decided I better get out in the shop myself and put up or shut up.
I received the header bolts and collector reducers yesterday via Amazon...
...and after cleaning and shooting the bolts with some VHT Satin Black (yes, I took the cheap and quick way out), got them installed and tightened down. Headers are now officially installed.
It took a couple of days to track down all the necessary brass 1/8” fittings, but I got the oil pressure tee for both sending units assembled and installed under the distributor tonight too:
No lengthening of the wires required, both pigtails reached perfectly.
Here’s a quick shot of the 2 1/2” pipes as they’re currently routed underneath the car, looks like I should be able to slice and dice to move stuff around without having to buy any more pipe. 👍🏻
And finally, I got the collector reducers mounted up with stainless hardware.
I’ve just gotta pick up some 90 degree boots for the MSD wires this weekend and get the straight ends swapped out, then the car will be in operable condition again.
Then it’ll be onto cutting and welding combustion byproduct evacuation transfer vessels!
😏😎
I received the header bolts and collector reducers yesterday via Amazon...
...and after cleaning and shooting the bolts with some VHT Satin Black (yes, I took the cheap and quick way out), got them installed and tightened down. Headers are now officially installed.
It took a couple of days to track down all the necessary brass 1/8” fittings, but I got the oil pressure tee for both sending units assembled and installed under the distributor tonight too:
No lengthening of the wires required, both pigtails reached perfectly.
Here’s a quick shot of the 2 1/2” pipes as they’re currently routed underneath the car, looks like I should be able to slice and dice to move stuff around without having to buy any more pipe. 👍🏻
And finally, I got the collector reducers mounted up with stainless hardware.
I’ve just gotta pick up some 90 degree boots for the MSD wires this weekend and get the straight ends swapped out, then the car will be in operable condition again.
Then it’ll be onto cutting and welding combustion byproduct evacuation transfer vessels!
😏😎
Great work! you inspire and amaze me with you talents. you should go for the Riddler when its finished!!!
So when do we flip this car over and do the bottom to match the top? 😉
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