BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)

melloelky

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 22, 2017
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I agree wholeheartedly. I have ARP black oxide head bolts on my 455, and not painted they developed surface rust very quickly. I’ve since painted them the same color as the engine block, and am much happier with them now. I’ll be repeating the process on the header bolts when they arrive with some VHT Satin Black.

Also agree that ARP’s are an investment in quality, no one makes a finer fastener IMO. Although, I seriously considered using Stage 8 locking header bolts instead (like on my 455 as well), but they don’t offer them in anything but a shiny finish.
we CeraKote a lot of hardware @work.it's hard to beat,it's DTM,low low film build be it the bake on or air dry versions.seeing that you just had your headers coated maybe that's something you could look into especially for the big block duty.
 
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Oct 14, 2008
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Looks good Donovan, I am surprised you couldn't fit 2.5" duals under the passenger hump, even a compact X pipe fit on my 88. Of course that was with shorty headers. Either way full length headers and true 2.5" exhaust is way easier with a dual hump crossmember and should give a noticeable power bump. Curious how that powder coat will hold up.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
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Feb 2, 2015
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Couldn't you make a jig using the existing crossmember? That way you could modify the existing one or even build a new one from scratch. All it would take is some heavy gauge steel and a metal glue gun.

That's my 2 cents anyway.

Either way, great work as per usual Donovan!!

Hutch

Oh absolutely I could. I just don’t really want to, especially if I can buy something decent and comparable for a reasonable price. The Jegs crossmember for example, is only $170ish US. I’d have a hard time buying the materials, cutting and welding it, and having it powder coated as well here for that price.

I’d have no problem with building one from scratch, IF I wanted another project right now. Afterall, I did it for the crossmember on The Juggernaut. No, like I said, I think I’ll end up just end up notching the factory crossmember and calling it a day.

we CeraKote a lot of hardware @work.it's hard to beat,it's DTM,low low film build be it the bake on or air dry versions.seeing that you just had your headers coated maybe that's something you could look into especially for the big block duty.

That’s an interesting idea and good info Chris, thank you. I’ll look into it. CeraKote is fairly new to me, I’m used to powder and ceramic coating being a lot thicker so I didn’t think it was an option. Powder coating in threads is not a fun problem to deal with.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Looks good Donovan, I am surprised you couldn't fit 2.5" duals under the passenger hump, even a compact X pipe fit on my 88. Of course that was with shorty headers. Either way full length headers and true 2.5" exhaust is way easier with a dual hump crossmember and should give a noticeable power bump. Curious how that powder coat will hold up.

Thanks Christian. Maybe I wasn’t clear, I did have both 2 1/2” pipes run down the passenger side under the crossmember hump. I just don’t want the redesigned system to be run like that.
Definitely agreed that the difference in power should be very noticeable, when that mild little small block can breathe freely and not be strangled anymore. Actually, it’s quite remarkable that the car was as quick as it was with how poorly the front half of the exhaust system was.
 
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melloelky

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 22, 2017
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That’s an interesting idea and good info Chris, thank you. I’ll look into it. CeraKote is fairly new to me, I’m used to powder and ceramic coating being a lot thicker so I didn’t think it was an option. Powder coating in threads is not a fun problem to deal with.
not to split millimeters here but the air dry is the thinnest of the two.it's so thin it comes out to about one and a half coats for coverage.depending on what your vendor is supporting really.it adds a touch of Lubricity as well compared to other coatings we're used to.it originated as firearm coating and it works well.
 
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Oct 14, 2008
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Melville,Saskatchewan
Thanks Christian. Maybe I wasn’t clear, I did have both 2 1/2” pipes run down the passenger side under the crossmember hump. I just don’t want the redesigned system to be run like that.
Definitely agreed that the difference in power should be very noticeable, when that mild little small block can breathe freely and not be strangled anymore. Actually, it’s quite remarkable that the car was as quick as it was with how poorly the front half of the exhaust system was.
Look at the 80's H/O and 442 exhaust. Guys have gained a second in the 1/4 with just dual exhaust, not even with headers, just off horrible Olds manifolds. If the front flows terrible, who cares how the back half flows? Sounds like a good coating for the headers. Imagine the tire smoke now😉.
 
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motorheadmike

Geezer
Nov 18, 2009
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Having done all three options: Buy, Build, or Bastardize.

#3 is going to be most prudent course of action. Weld a brace onto the back side before beginning. And then chop or bash your way to freedom. I'd aim for a 5-6" wide pass through.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
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Feb 2, 2015
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Well after cursing the paint techs on the idiot box at Kindigit Design on Bitchin’ Rides tonight, I decided I better get out in the shop myself and put up or shut up.

I received the header bolts and collector reducers yesterday via Amazon...

98144C9D-A835-4164-A3BA-78ECA3C289BB.jpeg


...and after cleaning and shooting the bolts with some VHT Satin Black (yes, I took the cheap and quick way out), got them installed and tightened down. Headers are now officially installed.

0D615D8A-6798-4152-BCDC-ADF4897B7737.jpeg


It took a couple of days to track down all the necessary brass 1/8” fittings, but I got the oil pressure tee for both sending units assembled and installed under the distributor tonight too:

1D49072C-DCFC-4F53-A623-2B5936001706.jpeg


No lengthening of the wires required, both pigtails reached perfectly.

Here’s a quick shot of the 2 1/2” pipes as they’re currently routed underneath the car, looks like I should be able to slice and dice to move stuff around without having to buy any more pipe. 👍🏻

37CB61AB-3238-4A50-82A4-989340249846.jpeg


And finally, I got the collector reducers mounted up with stainless hardware.

EF1C91A0-ED59-4F42-AD5C-F6CA50BB19EB.jpeg


I’ve just gotta pick up some 90 degree boots for the MSD wires this weekend and get the straight ends swapped out, then the car will be in operable condition again.

Then it’ll be onto cutting and welding combustion byproduct evacuation transfer vessels!
😏😎
 
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Flyers9928

G-Body Guru
Jul 30, 2014
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Great work! you inspire and amaze me with you talents. you should go for the Riddler when its finished!!!
 
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motorheadmike

Geezer
Nov 18, 2009
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Saskatchewan, Truckistan
So when do we flip this car over and do the bottom to match the top? ;)
 
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