BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)

The 1985 cutlass CSM. There’s some out there that says keep shimming the side bearings until you can’t fit any more in and that you can’t get too much preload on the side bearings.

personally I think you can just subtract the final pinion running torque from your total running torque (with the diff installed) and multiply that by the gear ratio. You would think new side bearings should have the same preload as the piñon bearings.
You can get too much preload. The multipying thing won't work - I've tried those games - no good. New gears and new bearings are a setting. Used gears with new bearings are another, and used gears with used bearings are a third.

My system is this the following if I'm using any used parts, either gears or bearings: measure backlash before removing the carrier, and measure the rotational torque prior to removing anything. Then remove the carrier and check the rotational torque again. Even if you're using all new parts, at least a baseline has been established with your tooling - implying when was the last time you had any of tools calibrated? (Now you know often mine have lol.)

Don't assume all bearings are the same. A setup inner pinion bearing of the same brand should be used - ALWAYS - for a reason.

I don't want to overtake the conversation/thread - if Donovan has any questions, then I'm sure he'll ask.
 
Don't assume all bearings are the same. A setup inner pinion bearing of the same brand should be used - ALWAYS - for a reason.

I agree, you can get too much preload on any bearing. I just said that there are some out there that say you can't get enough. I don't hold to that thinking. But if you can drop that diff out by hand, it's not enough. And then, there are those out there that do it for a living and just go by "feel". I'm not one of those.

The reason for using the same brand setup bearing would be that different manufacturers have different machining tolerances and your bearing could sit more shallow or deeper in the race than the bearing brand you will ultimately use, which could throw off your pinion depth measurement, which in turn affects the shim you choose for the pinion. Example, if using a Timken setup bearing you SHOULD use a Timken bearing with same part number for final assembly. Less chance of something being too far off.
 
Here it is about the side bearing preload.

Side Bearing Preload 85 CSM.JPG
 
Here it is about the side bearing preload.

View attachment 170456
This doesn’t make sense, there must be more to it on a previous pages. Add .004 to whatever you removed??? That isn’t sensible unless what was removed wasn’t the original.
 
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The only thing on the previous page was the title of the section above. "Case Side Bearing Preload" and didn't think that was worthy of it's own picture.

It appears that the entire write up to all the stuff was pretty much assuming you were using new parts.
 
As for the rear end posi job you're about to undertake, IIRC you're using an 85 442 posi rear?

*cross shaft pinon backlash in the posi unit should be .001"-.006". Anything over .006" will need shimming of the side gears.

*Not sure if you're doing the pinion too, but new pinion bearings for bearing preload per the 1985 CSM is 20-25 inch-pounds. (used bearings is 10-15). Many places will tell you 14-19 inch-pounds for new bearings. Ring gear backlash is .005" - .009" for new gear set per CSM (it doesn't mention any used gears), although again, other places will tell you that .006"- .010" for any set is fine. You decide.

*Side bearing pre-load, from the CSM, says once you get pinion depth and backlash set right as per dial indicator and good pattern, remove gear side shim, then replace with a shim that's .004" thicker. Then do the same on the passenger side and tap it in for a total of .008" extra shimming for preload. Check backlash again and if it's out, get it right, and then button it up and call it a day.

*Plus, here's a spring tip... when banging out the "S" spring on the bench, place a couple of shop towels or equivalent over the carrier so when it does pop out, it doesn't fly out across the shop and hit something or someone you don't want it to hit.

I don't want to overtake the conversation/thread - if Donovan has any questions, then I'm sure he'll ask.

Don’t sweat it Jim, you guys weren’t overtaking the thread. I encourage any and all information and suggestions when they’re on point to whatever is being done. All good sir.

And Mike, thanks very much for all the info you provided above, it was very helpful and directly pertained to what we did today.

The Skunkworks is certainly worthy of the first part of its namesake today, it stinks like 90 weight gear oil. So you KNOW some good shjt went down today.Mike came over this morning, and in just over an hour we had the rearend completely out of the car. This was planned for all along as it was going to make the work that much easier, plus there would’ve been no way to completely remove the axles where the car sits.

In tearing into the original diff, we found almost everything to be in rather exceptional shape. Even the crosspin bolt came out without a fight. The only damage I could find was the crosspin itself had some odd wear on it on the one end, but that was it. The gears were all in excellent shape (even the side and spider gears), and it all came apart beautifully.

That is, until we got to removing the ring gear bolts. For whatever reason, we had a total collective brain fart and snapped two of the ring gear bolts and jacked up the threads on a third before we realized the bolts were LEFT HAND THREAD!!!

What a bunch of dummies.

We had even looked through the 4” thick 1980 Oldsmobile FSM I have and didn’t see anything about it until afterwards. (Of course)
Thankfully, the bolts had broken because the heads were bottoming out before the threads were pulling, so once we (easily) got the other 7 out, the broken remnants just threaded out by hand.

From there on everything else went smoothly again. Got the ring gear cleanly off and back on the new carrier, and seated it into place with the remaining 7 good bolts. When we dropped it back into the housing, we did the math and used the new shims I bought to get the carrier installed within the FSM spec. The FSM called for 8 thou of preload IIRC, and I think we ended up with 9 due to the thickness of the shims we had. Backlash is at around 4-5 thou, so it might be just a touch on the tight side, but again, still within spec according to the FSM. I don’t think an extra thou here or there is gonna make or break it.

Once we had the carrier reinstalled and the bearing caps torqued back down, we turned our attention to removing the drum brake assemblies from the axle flanges. Driver’s side came apart ok, but getting that big Stover nut off the brake spring kingpin was a pretty good workout. Passenger side fought us equally as hard, but here the two smaller M7 x 15mm x 1.0 bolts snapped off flush in the flange due to rust. After Mike left, I spent a few minutes drilling out the broken bolts and re-threading the holes, so they’re good to go now.

So today (it’s now after midnight here), I’ll have to track down at least 3 new ring gear bolts, (but probably have to buy a complete set) and two new backing plate bolts locally.

I still have to finish removing the old axle seals and bearings and install the new ones, reinstall the axles with new “C” clips, clean up and install the new diff cover, then clean and paint the housing. It should be a busy week of nights in the shop, but in a good way.

That’s all for now gents, I’m off to bed before I fall over. Back to work tomorrow.

D.
 
Almost forgot, pics.
Not a whole lot this time around, but a couple as proof of life.

Out in just over an hour!!

E06EF43C-5BA8-491A-8A85-1B338761C981.jpeg


Mike trying his best to look useful...
🤣🤣🤣

0D94502F-A65E-44B2-9C2C-7483F2754D17.jpeg


And the posi in place:

E0F19757-A1F6-45CD-9605-84210FFB7303.jpeg


D.
 
Genuine GM ring gear bolts. Currently sold at dealerships EACH under p/n 11610549. You can get them at your dealer for LIST price of $4.32 USD each (about $1100.00 CAD 😆 ). Which is a bit under 13 bucks USD for 3. Don't know what your local dealer would be able to sell them to you for with discounts and such. I know you want to get everything buttoned up quick so the dealer may be your fastest route unless someone around there sells this sort of stuff.

Here are GM supersession numbers for the bolts you seek so you can find equivalents if necessary.

557390
1235420
1241564
1382035
12472098
14066913
CURRENT: 11610549
 
Whole lotta suck going on here today.

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3C74FC02-2A55-4383-B51F-09738C71F19A.jpeg


But should have a decent update for everybody tonight. Paint on deck next.

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