BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)

[69hurstolds]

That came out nice, per usual. 👍 Did you coat/paint the brake lines, too? I totally understand why you used the POR while you were in there, but the life that car is going to lead from here on out won't have it parked out on the front street in January. Even if you just used some VHT paint it would likely never see rust again.

 

[Tony1968]

I did the same thing with VHT but base was Chassis Saver. Don't know if it's available up north hey.... 😆

 

[motorheadmike]

It is Quinn. I had a bad reaction between the first and second coats for some strange reason, almost like it was too humid even though it was in the climate controlled garage. It went all blotchy on me with some areas flat looking and others staying glossy.

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Obviously I wasn’t about to settle or accept this, so I went with Plan B. POR recommends topcoating over it anyways because it’s not UV fast, so while it was still curing I hit it with 2 medium light coats of VHT semi-gloss black Chassis and Roll bar paint. This way it still gives the excellent protection that POR is known for, but also has the finish I was after WITH UV protection.

Win win win really.

I get that "second coat" reaction with the glossy POR-15 all the time. Semi-gloss only from now on.

 

[Rktpwrd]

I’ve made really good progress over the last two nights now that my Rock Auto order finally showed up yesterday. Brand new AC Delco brake drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and spring kits.

Started off by installing the new wheel cylinders in the new Dorman backing plates with clips that were supplied with the cylinders, then bolting up both backing plates. Once I had that done, I installed the wheel cylinder reinforcing brackets. These are super straightforward, just make sure to center the brackets as evenly as possible over the cylinders before drilling. This is pretty important as there is very little room for error. The axle flange on the backside is shaped such that if you’re too far over to one side, you could be drilling through the side of the flange.

Before the installation of the bracket...

...and after. You can see how close the bolts come to the outsides of the flange:

Mark, drill and install the brackets with the supplied 1/4” thread cutting bolts.

Easy peasy.
If I can make one suggestion though, if you’re going to be doing this, take the brackets and slightly bend the mounting ears outwards a bit. Out of the box the ears are bent at exactly a 90 degree angle and I found that they don’t hug the cylinder quite as snugly as they probably should. Other than that, they’re very well made and quality pieces.

The restored and painted brake hardlines went on next, and got tightened down in the cylinders. On the junction side, the new brass AN piece from Mike’s Montes went on along with the new stainless braided flex hose.
I pulled out the vent tube and cleaned the overspray off it from when I topcoated the POR15, and also cleaned up and reinstalled the bump stops.

To round out last night, I wire wheeled the inside flanges of the axles. Here’s a “one done and one not” to illustrate how much of a difference there was:

Once that was done, I gave’em both the POR15 treatment. Note the one bearing surface that has already been dressed up:

Tonight after visiting with my dad, I cleaned up both bearing surfaces on the axles with a little red ScotchBrite, lubed them and the axle seals up and installed the axles into the housing. The cross pin and bolt came out to get the new C clips in, then the new Dorman cover went on with some sealant and a new Felpro gasket.

Of course, the reproduction posi tag had to go on as well. 😉 Originally I bought it from Mike’s Montes as kind of a novelty thing, but now I really like it and feel it adds a little contrast and authenticity to it. (And yes, it’s been purposely installed slightly crooked, as that’s how GM would’ve done it, and it’s also where it happened to end up once I had the correct torque on the bolt).

Brakes will be on deck next, so tonight I made sure to get the new drums painted. Props go to Jamcar here as I really liked his engine block and heads painted in cast iron. I used VHT High Temperature Cast Iron on these guys for a little contrast to all the black on the housing. Thanks for the idea James!

I still have the inner face of the axles to clean up and figure out how to protect, but that can be done anytime really.

Here’s a final look for tonight at how it’s looking so far, I’m super pleased with how it’s coming along!

D.

 

[Northernregal]

 

[Supercharged111]

Any reason you used a gasket? They're just as much work to scrape off as silicone. On another note, the 8.5" rear diff in the wife's 07 Envoy had a reusable gasket line the trans. I wanna see if the 7.5" used one and get one of those for the Camaro.

 

[Rktpwrd]

Any reason you used a gasket? They're just as much work to scrape off as silicone. On another note, the 8.5" rear diff in the wife's 07 Envoy had a reusable gasket line the trans. I wanna see if the 7.5" used one and get one of those for the Camaro.

Mostly because I don’t like leaks. I’ve gotten used to trying to seal up crappy old parts over the years so using a gasket and sealer has become standard practice for me.
Barring any unforeseen circumstances I shouldn’t have to go back into it anytime soon, so scraping the gasket is a non issue really.

 

[Supercharged111]

Mostly because I don’t like leaks. I’ve gotten used to trying to seal up crappy old parts over the years so using a gasket and sealer has become standard practice for me.
Barring any unforeseen circumstances I shouldn’t have to go back into it anytime soon, so scraping the gasket is a non issue really.

My point is, I too hate leaks, so used to use silicone and a gasket. It's easier to just take a whiz wheel or wire wheel to silicone only, and I've never had a leak doing it that way. For a time, I was changing gear oil after every race weekend trying to get the case free of metal flakes. I think that went on for 2 seasons, so lots and lots of fluid changes and never a drop from the cover. I use a light coat on both sides.

 

[Rktpwrd]

I got the new brakes installed and all laced up the other night, and now I remember how much I hate doing drums. I will admit though, it’s a helluva lot nicer doing them with all brand new and clean parts.

Little disappointed with the AC Delco spring kits I got for it, very nice and complete set except for the fact that the hold down springs for the secondary shoes are completely missing. Nonexistent. I had to reuse the ones from the old brakes. Weird.

Also, I bought 2 spring kits because it specifically said on the Rock Auto website that one kit would not do both sides. I blame RA for that. So if anyone wants the other kit (brand new and unopened) shoot me a PM. I’d hate for it to just sit around here forever and not get used.

On deck for today is a run to the local speed shop to see if they’ve got some polyurethane bushings for the upper ears, if they don’t then it’s getting sent as is. (I’ve had a real difficult time trying to find any bushings that are less than 2 weeks away for some reason).
Gotta remove the swaybar so I can coat it and the springs in POR15, and address the last couple details. Then back into the car it goes tomorrow!

 

[Streetbu]

Donovan, not sure what you're running for trailing arms, but if they have poly bushings already, and you put poly in the ears on the rear-end, it will cause binding. You won't notice much other than a harsher ride, but it will act twitchy, and want to kick the rear end out very easily. You could run poly bushing in the ears if you're using upper arms with end links on them instead of bushings. Those will allow the arms to rotate throughout the range.