BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)

Spend a little more and install spherical bushings. Zeros the binding problem.

I picked up the budget versions at Speedway.
 
Donovan, not sure what you're running for trailing arms, but if they have poly bushings already, and you put poly in the ears on the rear-end, it will cause binding. You won't notice much other than a harsher ride, but it will act twitchy, and want to kick the rear end out very easily. You could run poly bushing in the ears if you're using upper arms with end links on them instead of bushings. Those will allow the arms to rotate throughout the range.

Thanks for the heads up Shawn, I’m aware of the issues that can arise, but I’ve got a couple of factors that are working in my favour. I use an old drag racers trick on anything with a bushing, I use Stover nuts on the bolts and don’t tighten them down until they compress on the bushings. Just SLIGHTLY loose so nothing binds. The upper CA’s are still rubber on the car side and might still end up being the same on the diff. The LCA’s I have are tubular UMI with poly on the car side and heim on the diff side. So binding really shouldn’t be an issue.

I’m hoping to replace the upper diff ear bushings because a) they’re most likely over 40 years old now and probably never been replaced,
and b) I got a little too close to them with the wire cup brush and shaved a little off them in a couple places.
😳😅
 
LCA’s I have are tubular UMI with poly on the car side and heim on the diff side. So binding really shouldn’t be an issue.
I thought the issue was on the upper arms - as the axle shifts up and down, the arc of the angled arm makes them want to twist.
 
I thought the issue was on the upper arms - as the axle shifts up and down, the arc of the angled arm makes them want to twist.

You’re not wrong Quinn. That’s where the problem exists. I just had these adjustable LCA’s left over from The Juggernaut build and wanted to put them to good use. One of these days I’ll probably replace the uppers on Olds Cool with some decent tubular and adjustable units too, but not right now.

Gotta let the smoldering wallet cool off a bit first.
 
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Look what I found. Used the spherical bushings instead.
840AA6FF-5637-4626-9BFC-F8474F8DFE25.jpeg

Need ‘em?
 
Look what I found. Used the spherical bushings instead.View attachment 171494
Need ‘em?

Dammit man! Yes, but no.
The local speed shop was a washout today, best they said they could do was to sell me an entire kit that had all the rear control arm bushings in it for $300+.

“I don’t think so Tim”. Especially when I have UMI adjustable lowers and can’t use the leftover bushings.

So I took a run by the distributor for the local Auto Value stores here on a whim after that, and they have a pair of Moog rubber ones coming for me Monday. So no, I guess I don’t need them anymore.

Problem is, these bushings arriving Monday kinda screws with my plans to reinstall the diff tomorrow. I remember how much of a PITA is was to re and re the rear upper bushings in The Juggernaut’s 12 bolt, and there’s no way I’m going to attempt to do that on this one in the car.

The install back into the car might have to wait until sometime during the week.
😕
 
Dammit man! Yes, but no.
The local speed shop was a washout today, best they said they could do was to sell me an entire kit that had all the rear control arm bushings in it for $300+.

“I don’t think so Tim”. Especially when I have UMI adjustable lowers and can’t use the leftover bushings.

So I took a run by the distributor for the local Auto Value stores here on a whim after that, and they have a pair of Moog rubber ones coming for me Monday. So no, I guess I don’t need them anymore.

Problem is, these bushings arriving Monday kinda screws with my plans to reinstall the diff tomorrow. I remember how much of a PITA is was to re and re the rear upper bushings in The Juggernaut’s 12 bolt, and there’s no way I’m going to attempt to do that on this one in the car.

The install back into the car might have to wait until sometime during the week.
😕
I definitely wouldn't want to do those uppers w/the housing in place.
 
Wrapping up the last couple details now.

Fun with masking tape...

B8F76734-EAB5-4F63-9B2E-AA12B7F40DA5.jpeg


...then got the backsides protected.

6B0DC96A-455F-4A32-84B7-D309262E74A6.jpeg


Nasty old springs and factory sway bar out:

697FB89D-D4CB-4A1B-8AAA-0DD25A446066.jpeg


Streetbu was inquiring about the control arms, here’s the lowers. Uppers are 100% stock still.

BD8135DE-2327-4958-966C-F504A3A1D72A.jpeg


Yeah they’re dirty AF, because I drive it. I’ll clean them up obviously before I reinstall the diff.

Spent some time cleaning up the springs and sway bar, MotorheadMike wasn’t the only one having fun playing with POR15 today.

02AA828A-3672-4539-8064-DBB326870706.jpeg


93A8B86C-290C-48DC-A73F-BEB951BE7A4E.jpeg


Just for the record, springs are not exactly the easiest thing to paint!

Rust can suck a fat one.
 
Wrapping up the last couple details now.

Fun with masking tape...

View attachment 171499

...then got the backsides protected.

View attachment 171502

Nasty old springs and factory sway bar out:

View attachment 171500

Streetbu was inquiring about the control arms, here’s the lowers. Uppers are 100% stock still.

View attachment 171501

Yeah they’re dirty AF, because I drive it. I’ll clean them up obviously before I reinstall the diff.

Spent some time cleaning up the springs and sway bar, MotorheadMike wasn’t the only one having fun playing with POR15 today.

View attachment 171503

View attachment 171504

Just for the record, springs are not exactly the easiest thing to paint!

Rust can suck a fat one.

Did you get a big black birthmark on your thigh too? Or am I the only donkey rolling around in it?
 

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