Rack and Pinion in a G body

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The problem with using a Pinto rack & pinion is that it was designed for a lighter car than a G body and will wear out quicker. R&P do have disadvantages to recirculating ball gearboxes, they tend to leak more, have shorter service life, less durability, and transfers more noise and vibration to the driver and passengers. IMHO it is not worth the time or money for what little advantage it offers.
 
Schwartz Chassis Engineering has developed a replacement G body chassis, and I believe it has a rack & pinion setup on it. I'm not proposing that you buy a whole new chassis, but you might want to check out their site, to see if there's any info there that might be helpful to you. Just a thought.
 
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Thanks everyone for all your input. With what is being said I am just going to go with an S10 manual box and rebuild the whole steering system. Now what do I need to run the S10 manual box?

Maybe this should be put up for others to see so they know the pros and cons to doing a rack. If this was a full drag race car I would be putting in a manual RnP, but for what I have read on here and the research I have done a DD car would have problems.
 
If you want to save weight on the front end use aluminum bumper brackets and an aluminum front inner bumper supports.
Talked to my friend who put a trz rack on and there is some fabication to put one on.
 
The S10 manual box is not a close ratio box. Probably the same as a standard non-performance steering box, but more muscle is needed to crank it...especially when trying to park.
Somewhere I read about someone using a Jeep steering box. I guess it was from a Cherokee. I believe it was a manual box, but uses a closer, or quicker ratio. If I'm not mistaken, it's also made by Saginaw.
I would also be concerned about pitman arm length.

Also in regard to rack and pinion steering. I wonder if something like a Volvo rack would be doable.
 
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