Radiator Advice... might be looking for the non-existant

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ck80

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Here is the deal. I haven't needed to buy a replacement radiator for anything since the late 1990s. Back then everything you picked up was copper/brass, clearly not the case anymore. I read about the purported plusses and minues of the plastic tank radiators online, the "benefits" of the aluminum core... Then because spectra makes a pretty good gas tank and I didn't see too much bad online, I tried ordering one of the Spectra premium radiators.

Not sure I like it.

The idea of a plastic end tank, plastic filler neck to screw the cap onto, plastic draincock, I just feel uneasy. In the car it is going into, there are not mounts or brackets that attach the radiator core to the support assembly. The radiator simply rests on its tanks on some tiny rubber pads, and the little plastic shroud on the top, with nothing wrapping around it either (no nice steel top plate that bolts on like the v8 cars) It just doesn't seem too durable to me???

That, and (unlike the Spectra gas tanks which are made in canada) these things are made in china. In fact, most radiators these days seem to be made in china. I'm thinking I want to return it.

The car it is going into is a plain jane Limited Regal. Probably 120 horsepower on a good day. While it is a lower mileage car and nice, it isnt a $30,000 show car or a 500hp drag car. I cannot bring myself to spend $800 on a radiator for it from becool or griffin. Yet, I want ultra relaible and to be able to hand the keys off to someone and know she will not be left on the side of the road, even on a 6-8 hour trip.

Does anyone know of the following:

* Made in the USA or Canada
* All-metal construction radiator with no bonding adhesive used
* metal draincock
* metal fittings for trans cooler lines
* metal filler neck

Priced around to under $200 or so that they have actually used?

Also...

Does anyone have the dimensions and measurements handy for a 1983 Buick 3.8 NA motor 2bbl carb radiator so that perhaps a universal fit would be close enough for me to use reliably from one of the better companies? The one that came out of this car is no longer straight after being crushed/twisted up... I'd be looking for total length, core length, distance from edge for outlets and cooler lines.

thanks!
 

ck80

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pontiacgp said:
why not take your rad and have it recored?

As I said near the end of the above, the one that came out of the car is no longer straight... even the tanks on the ends are dented up. What I left out from that description is that the car was hit high above the frame rails and pretty much messed up the radiator... because of the v6 mounting style, once the core support came free the plastic holding it in place shattered and the radiator was thrown around and crashed into things (PS pump/bracket/ cooling fan/clutch, air injection reaction pump, etc, and even the filler necks bent.

Its pure scrap.
 

Bonnewagon

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Check RockAuto. I am using a Spectra single row aluminum version that is supposed to be the equivalent of a 4 row brass. It was made in Canada and I like it a lot. Yes, it mounts with the rubber biscuits top and bottom but my shroud is sound as is my core support, so no issues with fit or rigidity. It keeps my 301 cool in summer even with the AC on max. The only thing new to me was that they mandated using a DISTILLED water/antifreeze mix only to assure no minerals would corrode the aluminum. Not a problem, it's like 99 cents a gallon at the supermarket. The only real differences in A/G body radiators aside from thickness is the 6 vs 8 cylinder versions- the six is narrower and uses a steel filler panel to keep the air from sneaking past and the eight is as wide as the whole core support. I had been using a brass 3 row 6 cyl version with a Pontiac 400 and it cooled very well, but I moved to the aluminum 8 cyl version when I built this wagon because of the AC. I see no reason not to use one since that's what's available lately, and it was a lot cheaper than the brass.
 

pontiacgp

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That is good info Mark, I always use distilled water cause the concoction coming from the tap has too many minerals and additives in it. The rad that you got does it have the transmission cooler in it?
 

Bonnewagon

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Yes Steve,in fact it is functionally identical to the brass radiator. All the fittings are the same and the drain is the 1/4 turn type. What I like is that in 90º+ summer weather, in bumper to bumper traffic, with the AC cranking, and a 160º thermostat, it only gets to about 200º tops. As soon as traffic moves again it cools right down, usually it sits at 160º all day even in summer.
 

beeterolds

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Dec 15, 2007
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They still make them brother, they are just uber pricey now. I priced one thru Advance Auto and it was 109ish for a Plastic/aluminum deal and $200 for a copper rad :shock: Hell they weren't even available for a few yrs but I guess the demand is there for them but were going to pay the price.
 

85GPLef41

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beeterolds said:
They still make them brother, they are just uber pricey now. I priced one thru Advance Auto and it was 109ish for a Plastic/aluminum deal and $200 for a copper rad :shock: Hell they weren't even available for a few yrs but I guess the demand is there for them but were going to pay the price.

I thought about buying a plastic tank/aluminum replacement to replace my GP's old leaking brass 2 core...until I came across a 3 core brand new brass radiator at a junkyard for 30 bucks!! 8) it still had the brand stickers and paint was still shiny :mrgreen: I bought it thinking I would replace it with a all aluminum unit but now I like the stealthy looks of it.... here is a link to the same radiator I bought:
https://shop.performanceradiator.com/in ... ct_id=1359
 

Bar50

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For what its worth, I have one of the F-body style(at the time) aluminum/plastic radiators in my El Camino with a 454 and another in service in a Regal with a Buick 350. No issues or comlaints. They both keep cool just fine. They are a few years old now.
 
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