radio ignition noise of death and destruction

[pontiacgp]

I have the MSD ignition box and MSD E curve distributor and with the MSD filter I have no noises my sound system. On our circle track cars we has the MSD box and coils along with backups of each on the dash close to the driver and without any filters he had no problem with radio reception, that is until he messed up and blamed he couldn't hear the spotter. I would check over all the wiring before moving things around.

 

[ugly 78 elky]

Ok so I have an update for anyone still reading along. The key to fixing an ignition popping noise is to wrap the engine in grounds until it looks like Medusa's bush and then do it again... And that's it! No more popping!
Actually I ran an 8 gauge ground from the intake to the battery ground with gold terminals and that did it for me, thanks for all the help everyone.

 

[fleming442]

Ok so I have an update for anyone still reading along. The key to fixing an ignition popping noise is to wrap the engine in grounds until it looks like Medusa's bush and then do it again... And that's it! No more popping!
Actually I ran an 8 gauge ground from the intake to the battery ground with gold terminals and that did it for me, thanks for all the help everyone.

That just tells me that your engine to frame to body ground was no good.

 

[somaphox]

just for sh*ts and giggles could you provide a picture of your radios wiring harness and how you have it all hooked up?did you go with an adapter or just cut and run wires?ive had happen what you speak of and i think it was either a ground issue where i may have grounded all the speaker wires to the black negative wire or something along those lines...it was like the first time i ever put a radio in my car when i was like 16,father was of no help so i was cutting a splicing as i went.these days though when i do an install i refuse to hack the harness up when adapters are like 12 to 15 bucks at most and aside from alittle extra length that easily tucked away it makes wiring everything much cleaner as well.also you said you got an aluminum headed 350 in it and ever since things have been going batty....just curious if your attempting to ground the rear of the engine from the firewall to the heads which with aluminum heads wouldnt ground well at all if any i dont think.im no wizz with electronics but im pretty sure aluminum sucks as a conductor or ground source.

reread your post not sure why i mixed up crate vortec 350 and aluminum heads but still if you have them,dont use them as a ground source =P...though if it doesnt im sure you painted it,did you paint over the lug holes that are in the cast iron heads or block?

 

[SoFloG]

Remeber... your battery is what creates the ground. If your connection to the negative terminal is faulty, you will never have solid negative ground anywhere in the vehicle no matter how many ground loops you eliminate. I've resolved numerous ground/electrical issues over the years by starting at the source.

 

[SoFloG]

Remember... your battery is what creates the ground. If your connection to the negative terminal is faulty, you will never have solid negative ground anywhere in the vehicle no matter how many ground loops you eliminate. I've resolved numerous ground/electrical problems over the years by starting at the source.

 

[fleming442]

just for sh*ts and giggles could you provide a picture of your radios wiring harness and how you have it all hooked up?did you go with an adapter or just cut and run wires?ive had happen what you speak of and i think it was either a ground issue where i may have grounded all the speaker wires to the black negative wire or something along those lines...it was like the first time i ever put a radio in my car when i was like 16,father was of no help so i was cutting a splicing as i went.these days though when i do an install i refuse to hack the harness up when adapters are like 12 to 15 bucks at most and aside from alittle extra length that easily tucked away it makes wiring everything much cleaner as well.also you said you got an aluminum headed 350 in it and ever since things have been going batty....just curious if your attempting to ground the rear of the engine from the firewall to the heads which with aluminum heads wouldnt ground well at all if any i dont think.im no wizz with electronics but im pretty sure aluminum sucks as a conductor or ground source.

reread your post not sure why i mixed up crate vortec 350 and aluminum heads but still if you have them,dont use them as a ground source =P...though if it doesnt im sure you painted it,did you paint over the lug holes that are in the cast iron heads or block?

Aluminum has nothing to do with it. You need a solid ground from the battery to the frame, the battery to the body, engine to frame, and engine to body. Motor mounts don't count.

 

[somaphox]

i was under the understanding aluminum wouldnt create a solid ground because of its alloys.if im wrong no argument from me,just all older engines and most newer ones arnt grounded at aluminum they are usually on a cast iron piece somewhere,be it a bolt and nut combination or a grounding strap that runs to a iron strap of some kind

 

[383_GrandPrix]

i was under the understanding aluminum wouldnt create a solid ground because of its alloys.if im wrong no argument from me,just all older engines and most newer ones arnt grounded at aluminum they are usually on a cast iron piece somewhere,be it a bolt and nut combination or a grounding strap that runs to a iron strap of some kind

Out of all the non precious metals, aluminum and copper are the 2 best conductors of electricity. That's why they use them in electrical wires.

 

[somaphox]

i stand corrected,lol as i said im no wizz and this is good to know for future projects.thanks for clearing it up for me