Rear cross member cracked need options
- Thread starter chiturr
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you think these 30+ year old cars are weak?......here is a common problem on an Audi R8
That Samcrac's?
That guy is a first-class moron
I would find a a good used and or aftermarket frame. It depends on what you are going to do with the car.And your pocketbook.
it will be easier and less for you to do, t
yes and he is a moron, he uses a bandaid repair on the structural part of a car.
I take it that's a home made nine inch and I would question the geometry along with binding. I don't see any sway control and probably twisting the car pretty good on the launches stressing it. I've been racing mine over 20 years (hard) with nothing like that
https://doubleaaperformance.com/products/g-body-mat
Big project but short of finding a new frame it's probably your best option.
9" rears are obviously 1.5" larger diameter so that means your UCA mounts move up .75" at least. That rear looks like it moved the UCA mounts up even farther than that so your rear control arm points on the axle are much farther apart than factory, Combine that with poly bushings and your in for a lot of loads the frame is not prepared for especially drag racing. Most 9" and 8.8 rear swaps are very lazy with maintaining factory rear geometry and I'm shocked this doesnt happen much more often.
Big project but short of finding a new frame it's probably your best option.
9" rears are obviously 1.5" larger diameter so that means your UCA mounts move up .75" at least. That rear looks like it moved the UCA mounts up even farther than that so your rear control arm points on the axle are much farther apart than factory, Combine that with poly bushings and your in for a lot of loads the frame is not prepared for especially drag racing. Most 9" and 8.8 rear swaps are very lazy with maintaining factory rear geometry and I'm shocked this doesnt happen much more often.
I agree with Clone TIE Pilot, there is something going on causing excessive stress on the cross member. Do the uppers you are using have a joint on one side to prevent binding?. As for repair I would not trust that frame to be straight unless you put it on a jig. If you don't have access to a jig or don't want to fabricate one I would buy a new frames, box it and upgrade the suspension pick up points and figure out what is causing the stress that caused the crack.
As long as those uppers are centered and 90* to one another there is nothing wrong with the way the rear is set up. Does it bind in travel with no spring?
The UMI brace will help align everything, take the rear out and weld a bead with some plating over the crack. Ramey could chime in but I believe its a common enough problem on A bodies that guys use their brace to either prevent cracking, or to realign and repair once a crack has occurred.
They arent F1 cars, youll be fine.
The UMI brace will help align everything, take the rear out and weld a bead with some plating over the crack. Ramey could chime in but I believe its a common enough problem on A bodies that guys use their brace to either prevent cracking, or to realign and repair once a crack has occurred.
They arent F1 cars, youll be fine.
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