Replacing 307 Water Pump

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69hurstolds

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Jan 2, 2006
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I ordered from GM parts giant. 6472172 is the part number. For some reason it’s showing discontinued now on their site.
Apparently you got the last one they could get then. That is the VIN 9 pump for 85 442. You're good on that part. Just as long as you installed it correctly on the cam.
 

sldwys

Greasemonkey
Nov 21, 2020
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Apparently you got the last one they could get then. That is the VIN 9 pump for 85 442. You're good on that part. Just as long as you installed it correctly on the cam.
God that would be my luck. Last pump available then install it wrong. Lol.
 

69hurstolds

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God that would be my luck. Last pump available then install it wrong. Lol.
Others will fit and work that has a return vent, but that part number was only listed to fit 85-up VIN 9 engines. But it first appeared in the 84 H/O Dealer Bulletin announcing the availability for the 84 H/O, although it never made it in the parts books. Nothing special about it that I can see but I have no idea why it's different p/n than the others.

They're hard to find. I'm down to about a half dozen of them.

The ACDelco number 42218 was stamped on some of them.

42218 fuel pump 85-87 442.JPG
42218 fuel pump 85-87 442 a.JPG
42218 fuel pump 85-87 442 b.JPG
 
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sldwys

Greasemonkey
Nov 21, 2020
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Others will fit and work that has a return vent, but that part number was only listed to fit 85-up VIN 9 engines. But it first appeared in the 84 H/O Dealer Bulletin announcing the availability for the 84 H/O, although it never made it in the parts books. Nothing special about it that I can see but I have no idea why it's different p/n than the others.

They're hard to find. I'm down to about a half dozen of them.

The ACDelco number 42218 was stamped on some of them.

View attachment 164183 View attachment 164184 View attachment 164185
Ok got the car to turn over several times. Nothing is coming out of fuel pump. I don’t have main line from pump to carb on. Just looking at actual fitting on pump. Shouldn’t fuel be coming out?
 

69hurstolds

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Jan 2, 2006
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Double check that you're pump arm is on top of the cam?

That's not the greatest idea to crank with an open pump discharge. You should put the main line from pump to carb on the pump and maybe slip a hose over the carb end of the line and send it to a bucket or jar or something. You really don't need gas splashing everywhere.

You may not have everything primed with just a few cranks. It could take several attempts. But again, catch that fuel.
 
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sldwys

Greasemonkey
Nov 21, 2020
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Double check that you're pump arm is on top of the cam?

That's not the greatest idea to crank with an open pump discharge. You should put the main line from pump to carb on the pump and maybe slip a hose over the carb end of the line and send it to a bucket or jar or something. You really don't need gas splashing everywhere.

You may not have everything primed with just a few cranks. It could take several attempts. But again, catch that fuel.
I just took the fuel pump off again. And there’s really only one way to put it in. It seems to have a little tension on the top stud when trying to put nut on. I assume this means it’s hitting the cam. As I tighten everything is flush and snug.

Im about to start looking for another motor. Lol. All this for a 307. Haha
 

69hurstolds

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Jan 2, 2006
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Like I said, it would be hard to screw it up, but I'm sure someone has. Just making darn sure. It would be easy if you changed timing chain/gears and could see what's going on, but if it felt "springy" and wanted to push the top side out when tightening it down, then it sounds like it's in right. Besides, that's probably at least partly why they put the sacrificial stud up on top, besides clearance issues. So you don't ruin the threads in the block when trying to draw the pump to the block against spring pressure.

Fix what you have first, and have something to drive while you build a new engine.
 
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sldwys

Greasemonkey
Nov 21, 2020
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Like I said, it would be hard to screw it up, but I'm sure someone has. Just making darn sure. It would be easy if you changed timing chain/gears and could see what's going on, but if it felt "springy" and wanted to push the top side out when tightening it down, then it sounds like it's in right. Besides, that's probably at least partly why they put the sacrificial stud up on top, besides clearance issues. So you don't ruin the threads in the block when trying to draw the pump to the block against spring pressure.

Fix what you have first, and have something to drive while you build a new engine.

Yea I believe it’s right. Going to try and tackle the valve cover gaskets, then tune up. Put it back together and see how she runs. I’m exited even for the 307. Giving me more hands on practice and I enjoy trying to do it right.
 
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