The pressure relief in the oil pan is dumping the pressure to 40 psi. The stock pump for a DOD motor is 80 psi and the pressure relief knocks it down to 40 at the bearings and sensor. This is why they idle and drive at 40 psi give or take a little.
Mike - to delete the DOD and VVT takes a new timing cover, valley cover, Gen 3 oil pump, a 1/4” NPT pipe plug for the pressure relief in the pan and 8 lifters to replace the 8 DOD lifters. I recommend a Gen 3 cam at the same time to accept a Gen 3 cam gear. ***
Jake
81cutlass , if you have a DOD motor and it’s at 20 psi, then you have an issue.
Greg
airboatgreg - the oil pump swap to fix this is crap. That’s the dealer and GM making an effort to get it out of warranty before it needs a cam, lifters and DOD actuators.
*** here’s the deal with DOD and VVT delete, it’s much more reliable, but the performance and fuel economy will suck *ss with a stock ECM and cam.
Personally, I’ve not seen a DOD motor make it 160k without the valley cover bolts being loose and taking out the cam, DOD lifters and 8 pushrods as well. I’m sure that there are many out there that have made it past this mileage, but most don’t. And FWIW, I have a ‘14 with 110k and I’m prepared to buy 8 DOD lifters, pushrods and oil pump the second I see the oil pressure drop to 30 psi.
Does everyone understand why loose valley cover bolts cause this catastrophe?
My 5.3 had loose valley cover bolts and was swapped at 160k due to the ‘motor is junk - low oil pressure and making noise’. I have a 4.8 with the same issue. Takes less than $800 of parts to delete DOD AND VVT. The issue is the cost of the labor. Point of reference, my 5.3 seen 30 psi of boost (900-1000hp) and I paid $250 for it as a core.
Anyone that has one of these motors that they want to sell for the core price - message me haha - I’m collecting them.
P.S. Texas Speed and Brian Tooley Racing sell the kits to delete and fix this issue.