Somebody please give me some advice

[CamaroAdam73]

Nope, should i have??

And on a side note, the vacum advance has not been hooked up at all yet, will this effect anything?? Sorry for leaving that bit of information out.

 

[custom442]

Nope, should i have??

And on a side note, the vacum advance has not been hooked up at all yet, will this effect anything?? Sorry for leaving that bit of information out.

um, ya you're going to want to hook that up. Just a hose from the vacuum port on the carb to the one on your dist. then check the timing.

 

[pontiacgp]

custom...your right to check it to see if it's working tight ...not to set the timing...the vacuum is not supposed to be hooked up to set the timing

 

[pontiacgp]

and camaro...if it's dieseling (run on) then the timing is too far advanced....or you could have the wrong temperature spark plugs....

 

[Papa_Wheelie]

Thanks for the response, CamaroAdam73...And although valve seals sound easier to repair than rings, it is still out of my expertise level...My engine did the dieseling thing, too, until I plugged the vacuum line, retarded my timing, and ran it on 87 octane...Another trick I find helpful...To leave your car with the higher performance timing and vacuum leak: put the car in Reverse, turn on the accessories, wait for it to idle lower, like <1000 rpms, then shut off the ignition and ease it into park.

 

[CamaroAdam73]

Thanks for all the input guys, it's really helped!

I've got a BIG update! I stopped the dieseling and backfiring through the carb by removing the rest of the old emitions hookups, and fixing all the vacuum leaks my carb had, I replaced the thermostat and housing, got it perfectly in time, and it runs beautifully!

And I've got another update on my Camshaft situation, its not bad! i don't know how i missed this but the cam IS pushing the lifters, and opening the valves! I looked closely and the two rocker arm studs for Cylinder 5 sit higher than the rest, and i was able to TAP them down with a hammer and block of wood, but one just jerks back up when i fire the engine. So either the heads are stripped or the studs are stripped, but either way the valves at least open, the Intake valve rocker arm stud didn't jerk back up after i tapped it down, but the exhaust side did.

 

[pontiacgp]

if the threads in the heads are stripped easy fix.....drill , tap and install a helicoil

 

[DRIVEN]

Are they screw-in studs? Factory studs are just pressed in. There are inexpensive drill/tap fixtures for installing screw-in studs. You don't even have to pull the heads off. I think Powerhouse used to sell them. Good to hear that you found that out before you had to tear into that thing!

 

[CamaroAdam73]

I'm honestly not sure if they are screw in, but judging by when i "pressed" them back in place with a hammer and block of wood, i'm guessing they are factory press in, because like i said the intake rocker stud stayed in place, the exhaust one keeps moving back out of place.


So if that's the case I'm going to fix this for now, I'm saving up to start buying all the new stuff though, i can't wait to have that Hydraulic roller cam and vortec heads >🙂

Hey DRIVEN can you take a look at this website i found, somethings on there are nicely priced but then again i think the majority of the parts on here are way over priced..

Heres the link : http://race-mart.storesecured.com/items ... s/list.htm



Just a small update, I recently acquired a turbo! It's a 90MM and I'm not sure of the brand, im pretty sure its good, the waste gate and everything is fine, i haven't tried spooling it up though so there's no grantee, i do know its off of a diesel semi, I think it's a little to big to use on my engine so I'm going to sell it, if anyone is interested please let me know!

 

[pontiacgp]

does your block have the 3 raised seats that you can drill and tap to install the spider retainer for the roller cam lifters?