If it's anything like a Cutlass dash, a standard screwdriver prying the 4 corners will work nicely. I've found that a Phillips bit from an All-in-One screwdriver (type with the short bits) is helpful.
Use the appropriate bit along with a wrench or often fingers to loosen the screws. Pull the speaker out, install the new unit and pop the cover back on.
Note that a tweeter may put pressure on the grille may cause a hairline crack in the grille.
The rears should be just as easy. The factory 4x10's were held in by nothing more than thick coat hanger wire. There should be a side where the wire is rounded and stuck in a single "U"-tab. Pop that loose, and the speaker should swing right out.
There are 4x10 to 6x9 adapters all over ebay and maybe some stereo shops (Not much demand nowadays). The adapters are simple bolt together and put in with new wires that usually come with the kit. If not, make some from coat hangers. The completed wedges will fit only one way.
Tip: When installing, be sure to place tweeters on the outermost sides for better imaging.
I hope this was helpful.
Use the appropriate bit along with a wrench or often fingers to loosen the screws. Pull the speaker out, install the new unit and pop the cover back on.
Note that a tweeter may put pressure on the grille may cause a hairline crack in the grille.
The rears should be just as easy. The factory 4x10's were held in by nothing more than thick coat hanger wire. There should be a side where the wire is rounded and stuck in a single "U"-tab. Pop that loose, and the speaker should swing right out.
There are 4x10 to 6x9 adapters all over ebay and maybe some stereo shops (Not much demand nowadays). The adapters are simple bolt together and put in with new wires that usually come with the kit. If not, make some from coat hangers. The completed wedges will fit only one way.
Tip: When installing, be sure to place tweeters on the outermost sides for better imaging.
I hope this was helpful.