speedway motors upper a arms on street?

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I've read on the forum a lot of people have success with them on the street as long as you grease them often. They also said to purchase 2 right 8" a arms and don't order the two different sizes. I know it probably is not optimal, but I drive the car under 500 miles a year. However, I want to make sure that I don't have any alignment issues.

I have them on a couple of cars. I have not had any issues. Grease them every so often. Mine only took like 1/8" of shims on either side for alignment. I have them on my 78 Caballero tht was a daily for a few years and on my beater grudge/drag car.
 
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Is anyone running speedway motors tubular upper a arms with the steel bushings on the street? I might down the road run my tall upper bj with a tall lower bj also would they work with this upper as far as alignment goes?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Me...pper-Control-Arms-Steel-Cross-Shaft,5584.html

YES! These are far superior than the floppy stamped steel factory UCA's with rubber bushings. UB machine is the manufacturer and Speedway motors has marketed them for years. I have been running the aluminum version on my car for about 10 years with NO issues. They are stronger, cheaper than rebuilding factory stuff and way cheaper than competing (heavy) tubular upper control arms. A lot of the Grand National guys have been using them due to the fact that rubber bushings in the factory arms deteriorate from heat generated by the turbo plumbing. Despite the great price they are a quality piece and help to tighten up the front end.

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Link to Aluminum version

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/IMCA-...acing-Upper-Control-Arms-Alum-Cross,2120.html

Link to UB Machine

http://www.ubmachine.com/upperboltin.html
 
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I've had UB machine arms on my T-type since about 2001. They were the arms used in the B-body 12" brake conversion. Never had an issue with them. I have G-body parts arms on their now (the 12" brake arms used Mopar ball joints) which are also made by UB machine.

I would not recommend AL cross-shafts for the street, however. They will work fine but on a race car you can easily inspect them for cracks. On a street car, crack inspection is tougher and nobody ever periodically inspects their suspension for cracks. Steel is harder to crack and cracks propagate slow. AL cracks and the cracks propagate fast.
 
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Well, the consensus is that these arms are actually pretty kickass. I might pick some up myself if I ever decide to make my regal a corner carver. 😛
 
I've had UB machine arms on my T-type since about 2001. They were the arms used in the B-body 12" brake conversion. Never had an issue with them. I have G-body parts arms on their now (the 12" brake arms used Mopar ball joints) which are also made by UB machine.

I would not recommend AL cross-shafts for the street, however. They will work fine but on a race car you can easily inspect them for cracks. On a street car, crack inspection is tougher and nobody ever periodically inspects their suspension for cracks. Steel is harder to crack and cracks propagate slow. AL cracks and the cracks propagate fast.

I agree, UB machine arms, steel shafts, and Chevy truck ball joints on my project currently.
 
Ive had mine for 4 years now. No issues here.
 
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Two right sides and grease every oil change or so. Putting angled grease fittings on them makes greasing them way easier.
 
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