speedway motors upper a arms on street?

[pontiacgp]

so speedway uppers are good but whats a good LCA ?

I use the stock lowers and welded in the Howe insert to use the screw in ball joints. I like to use low friction ball joints and I don't think you can get press in low friction ball joints. UMI has some nice lower control arms but the stock ones with poli bushings are good enough for me

 

[UNGN]

On the 2+2 we use stock lower arms with UB machine solid bushings, Tall ball joints and ZQ8 bumpstops.

Mostly for when someone looks under the car at the suspension at a race, they see stock arms and they scratch their heads to try to figure it out.

 

[Texas82GP]

On the 2+2 we use stock lower arms with UB machine solid bushings, Tall ball joints and ZQ8 bumpstops.

Mostly for when someone looks under the car at the suspension at a race, they see stock arms and they scratch their heads to try to figure it out.

I've seen you mention the ZQ8 bumpstops several times. Do you just replace the stock bumpstops in the lower control arms with these? Is this what you are talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GU9CO9K/?tag=gbody-20

 

[UNGN]

I've seen you mention the ZQ8 bumpstops several times. Do you just replace the stock bumpstops in the lower control arms with these? Is this what you are talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GU9CO9K/?tag=gbody-20

Yes. These provide a softer LCA to frame impact than the factory urethane. The first factory application for these was the Xtreme S10 and blazer. Before Dorman sold them aftermarket, GM sold them for about $25. It is a great cheap mod for a lowered car.

 

[mobileaudio25]

I use those tubular control arms and there is a bunch of members using them. You buy two right sides and just flip it to use on the left. They have nylon bushings that if you keep greased last years. I suggest you put 90 degree zerks pointing up on to make greasing them easier. The holes on the cross shaft are 1/2" so you should use 1/2" bolt instead of the smaller stock bolts. I have used the stock bolts and didn't seem to have any issues. We used those uppers on our thunder and super stock asphalt circle track cars and they are stronger than the stock upper control arm

Yeah I only drive the car 200 miles a year or less. I can do with greasing often and I did get 2 right sides. Going to be running a tall upper ball joint and 2 in UMI lowering springs. I've read that also about the 90 zerks definitely going to do that. I thought they were steel bushings? Do you have the hardware dimensions for the 1/2"?

 

[mobileaudio25]

i run em
no problems
i drive over a 1000km a year on them
grease them a couple times a year
was just about a wash between buying new control arms to buying moog bushings up here in canada

How do you like them? Any issues with them other than just making sure they stay greased? Handeling and strength pretty decent I'm hoping

 

[mobileaudio25]

YES! These are far superior than the floppy stamped steel factory UCA's with rubber bushings. UB machine is the manufacturer and Speedway motors has marketed them for years. I have been running the aluminum version on my car for about 10 years with NO issues. They are stronger, cheaper than rebuilding factory stuff and way cheaper than competing (heavy) tubular upper control arms. A lot of the Grand National guys have been using them due to the fact that rubber bushings in the factory arms deteriorate from heat generated by the turbo plumbing. Despite the great price they are a quality piece and help to tighten up the front end.

Link to Aluminum version

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/IMCA-...acing-Upper-Control-Arms-Alum-Cross,2120.html

Link to UB Machine

http://www.ubmachine.com/upperboltin.html

I pulled the trigger on them. Do you know anyone running them with a tall upper balljoint? I'm running one and some 2" lowering umi springs

 

[mobileaudio25]

YES! These are far superior than the floppy stamped steel factory UCA's with rubber bushings. UB machine is the manufacturer and Speedway motors has marketed them for years. I have been running the aluminum version on my car for about 10 years with NO issues. They are stronger, cheaper than rebuilding factory stuff and way cheaper than competing (heavy) tubular upper control arms. A lot of the Grand National guys have been using them due to the fact that rubber bushings in the factory arms deteriorate from heat generated by the turbo plumbing. Despite the great price they are a quality piece and help to tighten up the front end.

Link to Aluminum version

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/IMCA-...acing-Upper-Control-Arms-Alum-Cross,2120.html

Link to UB Machine

http://www.ubmachine.com/upperboltin.html

I pulled the trigger on them. Do you know anyone running them with a tall upper balljoint? I'm running one and some 2" lowering umi springs

Yes. These provide a softer LCA to frame impact than the factory urethane. The first factory application for these was the Xtreme S10 and blazer. Before Dorman sold them aftermarket, GM sold them for about $25. It is a great cheap mod for a lowered car.

im lowering my car with 2" umi lowering springs. These are direct screw in bump stop replacements for the lower control arms? All they do is just lessen the impact of the control arm correct? Does anyone do anything about bumpstops with the speedway tubular uppers?

 

[pontiacgp]

Yeah I only drive the car 200 miles a year or less. I can do with greasing often and I did get 2 right sides. Going to be running a tall upper ball joint and 2 in UMI lowering springs. I've read that also about the 90 zerks definitely going to do that. I thought they were steel bushings? Do you have the hardware dimensions for the 1/2"?

I forget the length of the stock bolts but I used longer bolts cause with my set up I was cutting 1/2" out of the tubular uppers but the heat from the welding shortened the life of the bushings so I used the 8" control arm and added shims. Before I install the 1/2" bolts I take a small cold chisel and make some knurls so when I install the 1/2" bolts in the 1/2" hole the bolts stay in place and don't rotate when I am tightening the nuts. I used just regular non locking nuts the get the wheel alignment and after the wheel alignment was done I changed out the service nut for the nylon locking nuts. I do not use the locking nylon nut to have the wheel alignment done cause the nuts has to be lossing several times and the nylon locking nut is a one time use nut

 

[awdblazer]

How do you like them? Any issues with them other than just making sure they stay greased? Handeling and strength pretty decent I'm hoping

love them
no issues what so ever