Haven't been able to update in a while probably to stressed out but never the less. So I'm tinkering with the rig when I can and I couldn't get it to start. Eric called his friend Barry to have a look at it. Barry is a diesel mechanic of 40 years and worked on equipment in the field his hole life. His response from looking at it was why the hell dose a compressor need an ECU to run and go threw mechanical functions like throttle up throttle down and shut off when it has a mechanical pump and no pollution control? Needless to say he gave me a parts list to skip the BS and make the thing work correctly. Everything he had me buy was under $20 and he's wiring it for me this weekend. I just need to pick up a new battery because the rig battery is in the suburban. LOL
Square body crew
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good to hear from you, and glad you're still at it, and haven't thrown in the towel. hope everything else is looking up as well.
Here is the thing Eric. The "ECU" is probably a safety module. If something goes wrong with an aircompressor it will self destruct very quickly. Heat is the worst enemy of a screw type compressor. They usually have temp sensors and oil level sensors on the engine and compressor tank. So if the temp gets too high or the oil level is too low it will turn off the fuel shut-off seliniod. Most compressors I have worked on use an air actuator to adjust the throttle. Less air pressure, the more it revs the engine. If it will not run? Make sure there is not something wrong first. Could be a faulty sensor. By bypassing the controller you are eliminating the safeties also. The older ones used the Murphy system. You set the gauges to the limit and when it hits the limit it trips the reset switch which shuts off power to the fuel seliniod. Just trying to help you not burn up your compressor. That is the heart of the blast rig.
True however I'm sure his fix will be better than the bungee cord that's currently holding the throttle wide open. That's how it was when I bought it. It belonged to a paving company. I've been told I'm lucky it didn't blow up already
I ran out to the building tonight after work with a new battery for the rig. Barry met me there today was the first day he could get there. He didn't eliminate everything like I thought he was going to. He spent about 15 minutes on it with a power prob and a test light. 20 minutes in it was running and throttling down when it wasn't calling for air. The ignition switch crank position wouldn't work because the switch is bad and the cheapest one I can find is $110 on eBay so Barry put a starter button on it. It still uses the original switch to turn on power but it cranks with the button. The electric solenoid for the fuel cut is also no good so I'm going to put a PTO cable on it and call it done. A new solenoid is like $500 and the linkage is missing anyway from the paving butchers. Throttle up down for a load is air controlled by a different solenoid. I just ordered a PTO cable and new air filter I'd have ordered oil filters also but I don't know what #s to get. That's all until next weekend.
I'm curious what the PTO setup looks like on your truck? On my GMT400 dually it's blocked by the exhaust.
Absolutely I'll snap a shot of the tag and send it next time I'm at the building thanks.
My truck doesn't have a PTO I'm using a PTO cable as a shut off switch on the compressor on the rig I built the truck to tow
Finally getting around to giving this beast some love. The new truck has been killing me but it's getting back and forth to work so I can devote some time to this one revisiting rear brakes again. This time for good no used parts. That said I bought new drums and 10 new studs. Today I etch primed and painted the drums for some longevity
I also bought good quality brake shoes this time. I only had time to do one side so I did the right side because the axel seal was leaking and that's also the drum that was over cut and all grooved up. I put that side back together with all new studs and a new seal. Tomorrow I'm going back to the shop and do the other side. The rear brakes never seem to work right on this truck I'm wondering if I should eliminate the rear brake limiter so the drums get full pressure. I mean it's not a pickup anymore and it's got dump truck springs under it now so it probably never squats in the rear enough for it to work anyway. I figure it's probably always limiting the rear brakes even when I need them at full pressure. Just a thought.
I also bought good quality brake shoes this time. I only had time to do one side so I did the right side because the axel seal was leaking and that's also the drum that was over cut and all grooved up. I put that side back together with all new studs and a new seal. Tomorrow I'm going back to the shop and do the other side. The rear brakes never seem to work right on this truck I'm wondering if I should eliminate the rear brake limiter so the drums get full pressure. I mean it's not a pickup anymore and it's got dump truck springs under it now so it probably never squats in the rear enough for it to work anyway. I figure it's probably always limiting the rear brakes even when I need them at full pressure. Just a thought.
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