Starter solenoid terminals

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-83MONTESS-

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Nov 4, 2010
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Im in the process of putting my battery in the trunk, wiring up a remote Furd style solenoid in the trunk as well but when I went to run the wires from the starter I ran into a snag. My mini starter seemingly only has 2 terminals. Both are about the same size very close to normal "B" terminals on most starters. There is no S or R terminals just the 2 large ones. I only have experience with the normal 3 terminal solenoids, I have never seen one like this but im not very experienced when it comes to these. My question is what do I do with the "S" terminal wires? The remote solenoid also calls for the use of a bus bar from the "B" terminal to the "S" terminal so what do I do? Thanks for any info
solenoid by bwollens1983, on Flickr
 
Nobody has any idea or has seen one like this?
 
The second terminal there is likely the "S" terminal. To test, short it to the B terminal with a screwdriver. If the starter turns, then it is the "S" terminal ( assuming you have battery power at the "B" terminal. To wire it up, you use the "S" wire that was on the other starer to "Trigger" the new Ford relay. That will energize the "B" terminal. You run a jumper wire from the "B" terminal over to the "S" terminal. Now, when you hit the key, the "S" wire will energize the Ford Solenoid, providing power to both the "B" terminal and the "S" terminal at the same time. The starter will engage and turn the flywheel. Release the key, and the Ford solenoid is De-energized, taking power away from both terminals simultaneously.
 
it looks to me that starter was made to run with a remote solenoid and has the s terminal internally wired to the upper connector. If you put 12 volts to the upper connector the starter motor should work. With the ford solenoid the wire to the starter is dead until you turn the key to give power to the s terminal on the ford solenoid. I put my ford solenoid in the engine compartment cause I found it easier to run one 4 gauge wire from the trunk to the ford solenoid and then all the other wires to the ford solenoid instead sending the s wire, the two wires with the fusible links, the wire from the alternaor to the trunk and then the 4 gauge wire to the starter from the trunk
 
pontiacgp said:
it looks to me that starter was made to run with a remote solenoid and has the s terminal internally wired to the upper connector. If you put 12 volts to the upper connector the starter motor should work. With the ford solenoid the wire to the starter is dead until you turn the key to give power to the s terminal on the ford solenoid. I put my ford solenoid in the engine compartment cause I found it easier to run one 4 gauge wire from the trunk to the ford solenoid and then all the other wires to the ford solenoid instead sending the s wire, the two wires with the fusible links, the wire from the alternaor to the trunk and then the 4 gauge wire to the starter from the trunk
Ok thanks for the help guys. I will try and test it tonight after work. After thinking about all the wires going to the trunk I probably will stick with putting the solenoid on the fender or firewall. Im running 1/0 for my main battery cable. It has very thick insulation on it so it should be fun navigating it through my 2" primary headers :lol:
 
I run 4 gauge with no issues for 3 years and what is nice about using the ford solenoid is the wire that goes to the starter is dead until you start the car. I ran mine to towards the front of the engine along the wheel well and then along the block back to the starter. I zip tied it to the engine mount
 
While you are at it, run the Fusible Links to the "hot" side of the remote starter ( away from the starter terminals). They will be a lot easier to get to if you need to service them. The hot side is also a good place to pull power if needed for Electric Fans, etc. I also ran a "remote starter switch" from the hot side to the "S" terminal on the Ford solenoid. Makes it easy when you need to "bump" the engine over when you are working on it.
 
I mounted my Ford style solenoid on my modified heater case and ran 1/0 from the trunk and also to the starter, I also hardwired a bump switch on each of the inner fenders to make valve adjustment easier.
 
Ok well I tried testing it today and I got nothing. Im thinking I didnt have a good enough ground but I have to work early tomarow so it will have to wait until tomarow.
 
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