Not yet. Im not getting anything. I grounded the battery to the frame and ran a wire from the positive terminal to the top terminal on the starter. Got nothing so I tried the samething on the bottom terminal. Still nothing.pontiacgp said:
Starter solenoid terminals
- Thread starter -83MONTESS-
- Start date
- Status
How do I go about grounding the solenoid? I figured it would be just like the factory one.pontiacgp said:
the body of the solenoid needs to be grounded. I mounted mine on the plastic wheel well so I put a 10 gauge wire from one of the bolts securing the solenoid to the body. I have my battery in the trunk so upgraded the grounds. I have a 4 gauge wire from the battery to the body and another to through the trunk sheet metal to the frame. Then in the front I put another 4 gauge from the frame to the engine and to the body.
I havent hooked the remote solenoid up yet. Im talking about the starter itself. Earlier in the thread we were talking about putting power to the starter to double check what the 2 terminals are for since there is no S or R terminal. When I put power to the top terminal on the starter I get nothing.pontiacgp said:
Since you haven't hooked up the remote, Apply power to the lower terminal, and then with power applied there, jump 12 V to the other terminal. That should trigger the solenoid. I'm assuming you have a good ground on the block,and the starter is mounted. Otherwise, you will need to ground the starter as well to make it work.
Your starter appears to be new so I would contact the supplier and question them about it, I just find it hard to believe that you could of unknowingly purchased the only Chevy starter that I have ever seen that would have been designed specifically to run a remote solenoid only.
And if it was actually designed that way then I would think if it has a good ground then all it should take is a hot battery cable on the upper battery terminal and it should crank which would be assuming some sort of built in unseen hot "S" terminal.
Or maybe they were training the new guy at the solenoid factory and one of his practice ones got slipped in with the good ones.
And if it was actually designed that way then I would think if it has a good ground then all it should take is a hot battery cable on the upper battery terminal and it should crank which would be assuming some sort of built in unseen hot "S" terminal.
Or maybe they were training the new guy at the solenoid factory and one of his practice ones got slipped in with the good ones.
I think one of the terminals is the "Hot" terminal, and the other one is the "S" terminal. Ground is established via the bolts.
I set my mini starter up to run with a remote solenoid and if I were to remove my starter from my car and wanted to test it I could use jumpers cables and clamp the negative cable on the mounting block and then all it would take is a touch of the positive cable to the upper battery cable mounting stud (the one highest on the solenoid) and my starter would crank so if this solenoid/starter was designed to be used with a remote set up it would function the same way, the lower stud is only to supply power to the starter itself from the solenoid and no other wires go there.
Obviously the starter being bolted to the engine should be a good enough ground assuming the engine itself is properly grounded and all it should take to test it is a hot positive touching the battery cable mounting stud.
Obviously the starter being bolted to the engine should be a good enough ground assuming the engine itself is properly grounded and all it should take to test it is a hot positive touching the battery cable mounting stud.
The starter is mounted. I put power to both terminals but not at the same time nor did I jump one to the other. When I get another chance I will try that.
- Status
Similar threads
