Starter solenoid terminals
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It wasnt a furd part it was a Tuff Stuff brand part that failed. This one is a NAPA brand. No where on it does it say Ford. I have no problem using another make's part if it's a better setup than what came factory from GM, like their genius idea of having an always hot wire running to the starter.pontiacgp said:
Well I got everything put back together but when I went to check the starter gear clearance I realized it was too tight. I added 2 shims and the clearance was good, I was able to slide a piece of metal wire in between the starter gear and the flywheel but when I let go of the screwdriver holding the gear out, the starter gear didnt retract all the way. I had to tap it pretty hard with a ratchet to get it to retract all the way. Here is a pic of what it looked like. Notice the wire.
starter clearance by bwollens1983, on Flickr
I originally thought maybe it would retract on its own when I tried to bump it over with the key. I turned the key and heard an awful screeching noise like it was too tight and sure enough the starter gear was stuck all the way out. So....it has 2 shims and it's still too tight I guess. Should I add more? This is the first time I have dealt with starter shims, normally I get lucky on the first try :lol:
starter clearance by bwollens1983, on FlickrI originally thought maybe it would retract on its own when I tried to bump it over with the key. I turned the key and heard an awful screeching noise like it was too tight and sure enough the starter gear was stuck all the way out. So....it has 2 shims and it's still too tight I guess. Should I add more? This is the first time I have dealt with starter shims, normally I get lucky on the first try :lol:
Update: After messing with it some more I got it to turn over without making horrible noise and retract all of the way. I took out the shims and just used a 1/16" washer on the outboard bolt so the starter tilts upward on the oil pan side. This thing sounds pretty cool. Reminds me of the starter on my buddy's 5.9 Cummins 8)
83montess just saw your thread... yeah that spade terminal was a pain in the *ss, having to cut the ring off the wire and strip the wire and add a female spade connector, while under the car sucked, not to mention the wire had a thick plastic end by the old ring terminal, not sure if it was a poor attempt at a heat shield or was there to try to prevent wire breakage but now my wire is wicked short and barely reaches the terminal... and it pulls off easily... did you ever fix the bendix gear sticking out to far/not retracting all the way??? i ordered 3 extra shim kits and they should be delivered today, so i am going to try to add MORE shims and see if it helps... where is your starter from? skipwhiteperformance? possibly a bad batch of starters if we both got them in the same place
With the 2" header primaries and the kick out 7qt pan I didnt want to mess with the jumper wire from under the car so I pulled the starter back out. Even being a mini starter it is pretty tight to get it up in there, notice the corners of the aluminum block had to be ground down. I would recommend trying what I did to fix the problem with the bendix, instead of using shims try using a washer on either the inboard or outboard bolt. It will kind of tilt the starter and may give the necessary clearance. I used a small basic washer on the bolt closest to the header and it did the trick.BPTTONE420012 said:
If you had a 153 tooth flexplate the starter would have used the other bolt holes and you wouldn't have to round off the corner
I guess thats good to know :lol: Definatley did not feel like pulling the flywheel just to fit a starter!pontiacgp said:
it's sorta common for guys to use the 168 tooth on BBC for the extra leverage of the larger ring gear and 153 tooth on SBC
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