Steering/Alignment Question

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500/600 The Charger challenger 300 use a Mercedes Benz front and rear suspension that is arguably not the greatest, don’t get me started on all the failed tension struts. Yes you may have been willing to spend the extra dough on offset bushings, most customers don’t want to spend more than the base price. Also, please remember I said a majority of Chrysler’s cars. A grand caravan, town and country, Pacifica, 200, avenger, patriot compass caliber journey and so on, Per FCA and Hunter you’re supposed to loosen and shift the cradle.
 
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500/600 The Charger challenger 300 use a Mercedes Benz front and rear suspension that is arguably not the greatest, don’t get me started on all the failed tension struts. Yes you may have been willing to spend the extra dough on offset bushings, most customers don’t want to spend more than the base price. Also, please remember I said a majority of Chrysler’s cars. A grand caravan, town and country, Pacifica, 200, avenger, patriot compass caliber journey and so on, Per FCA and Hunter you’re supposed to loosen and shift the cradle.

I agree. Although shifting the cradle fixes one side at the expense of the other side which may have needed anything adjusted. Not a great setup.

Did I cause this this thread to veer away from G-bodies?
 
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I have an 83 El Camino that I just replaced the whole front suspension on. It has Southside tubular upper control arms and tall ball joints, Moog 5660? springs (that number is from memory), Blazer spindles and new stamped lower control arms. After installing these parts I set the alignment with a Tenhulzen alignment tool using Southsides recommended specs, mostly. I have -1/2 degree of camber and about 1/16" toe. They want 5 degrees of caster, I can get about 3 with a stack of shims on the front bolt and none on the back one. It drives like it needs more caster, the wheel doesn't want to center its self, especially at low speeds. Aside from trying to jam a few more shims in it, is there anything else I can do?

If you need any additional help just call the shop.

-Brandie @ SSM
 
After thinking a while I remembered thinking that the new lower ball joints were very stiff when I put them in. I greased them when I installed them, but I gave them another shot and drove it for a while. The more I drive it the better it feels. At first you could turn the wheel all the way to one side and let go and it would stay there, you'd just drive in circles. It's starting to center its self now, still a little tight but nothing like it was. Just for kicks I googled new ball joints & tight steering, apparently a pretty common problem. First time for me. Gonna drive it for a while them have another look at the alignment.
 
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After thinking a while I remembered thinking that the new lower ball joints were very stiff when I put them in. I greased them when I installed them, but I gave them another shot and drove it for a while. The more I drive it the better it feels. At first you could turn the wheel all the way to one side and let go and it would stay there, you'd just drive in circles. It's starting to center its self now, still a little tight but nothing like it was. Just for kicks I googled new ball joints & tight steering, apparently a pretty common problem. First time for me. Gonna drive it for a while them have another look at the alignment.


Our ball joints are low friction design, about 2 lbs of resistance. If they were tight after the install and now loosening up you have a concern-able problem. Possible damage during installation.


Installation is the same as typical press in GM style ball joints apart from the following. Do NOT push against the ball cap, the part containing the grease fitting. This may cause damage to the joint.
 
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Our ball joints are low friction design, about 2 lbs of resistance. If they were tight after the install and now loosening up you have a concern-able problem. Possible damage during installation.


Installation is the same as typical press in GM style ball joints apart from the following. Do NOT push against the ball cap, the part containing the grease fitting. This may cause damage to the joint.
Should have been more clear, my problem was with the lower ball joints, which were Rock Auto parts. No problems at all with the parts I got from Southside Machine, would definitely shop there again
 
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The ball joint would be hard to move by hand but they should not affect the steering wheel not returning to center after a turn. If they are loosing up after a drive or two I would not expect them to last very long. The cap at the bottom on the ball joint is where the spring sits that gives the tension on the stud ball. As mentioned you should never put any presssure on the cap which, if damaged, could increase the pressure put on the stud ball.
 
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