Stereo? What do y'all have??

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I've got somewhere in my dads garage if I look for it an old Blaplaukt or how ever you spell it head unit that my uncle bought new in '81/82 for his cutty. :lol: Can you believe it cost him around $600 back then state of the art elctronics. It has the center face plate then the split knobs :lol:
 
Ill. what do you think about JL's amps. I'm a diehard JL fan. I like the Sony amps I've had to. Decent bang for there buck. I've looked at soundstream before, aswell as McIntosh.
 
the newer slash series are cold i heard the 1000/1 will do 1000 watts at 11 volts where if you to use any other 1000 watt amp ie memphis rf alpine eclipse it would not
 
little bitty amp in your deck that does 50x4 55x4 at 4 ohms and cant go lower in ohms have you ever seen an amp thats 50x4 its bigger than the deck

I wish people would stop thinking that a deck could have anywhere near 50 watts per channel. If you would ever actually look in the owners manual under the specs section you'd see that most decks are in the 7-13 watt range and even then that's sometimes at a rediculously high THD like 1%.

The same goes for larger amplifiers. I just put a sub in my DD and a kid I work with was telling me about his like 2000 watt stereo system. I go to check it out and he has 2 old low line Pioneer subs that say 800w on them in some stupid 4th order band-pass box from Best Buy or something that sounds like it was tuned at 120 Hz and his amp said 1600W on it when it looked to be about a 200W amp on it's best day considering the 10 gauge power wire he had running to it.

I asked him how he got 2000 watts from 1600 and he told me not to forget his 200W headunit. I go "Well that's still only 1800 watts." and he goes "Yeah but they underrate this stuff so it's gotta be "like 2000" watts." WOW simply amazing, no wonder he's a busser at a restaraunt. 😀

But what was said about the fuses on an amp is true. Power (or watts) is measured by voltage times current. So if your amp has a 100amp worth of fusses then multiply say 80 by the 14.4 volts that your car's going to be running and you can usually tell if the amp is even able to make the power it says it can.
 
i know a deck cant do 50x4 i was just making a point i havent used a deck for interior speakers for like 3 years i love my crisp highs plus with all the bass i got if i didnt have amplified components i couldnt hear them
 
another thing with watts that most of you already know is that you basically have to square the watts in order to double the amount of volume....in other words you'd need a 100 watt amp to double the volume of a 10 watt amp..
 
i might be in to the high end stuff a bit much but i need to give some input. in the front i have figured out that a MB quart 4" premium component speaker will fit in the opening of my regal, the sound insane and come with crossovers and all of that, then again they also require a amp. kick panels are a must, they work insane, well worth the money, if you are going to buy those it is only logical to get some higher end speakers which also should have a amp. rear stage can be tricky, i used 5.25 in the rear panels between the rear window and the quarter winows, i am happy with them. then again if you have a good front stage then do you really need rear. other option is 6x9s with adapters, DO NOT WASTE TIME with 4x10s, they suck and it is proven that a oval cone distorts the sound, a 6x9 is a exception to the rule because they actually put out some bass, you will not be able to notice low end distortion much if any. as far as head units, the eclipse cd3000 mentioned above is a very good unit for the money, i got one on ebay new for 80 bucks for my girlfriends car, people spend more on stolen decks then that, its great for the money. internal amps on a head unit, for the birds, 50x4?? maybe 10x4! that is noe they sell these heads, if you look at a eclipse head it says something like 12x4 peak right, eclipse looses retards all the time that think that their 100 dollar pioneer 50x4 will sound better.... NOT! the eclipse will toast it in sound quility any day of the week! i personally do not use my heads for powering speakers period. you can pick up a amp to power your mids and highs for cheap. i recently snagged a punch 200a4 for 50 bucks at the pawn shop, this is a true 50x4 and its probably actually more like 100x4 and guess what, very low distortion and you also get built in CROSSOVERS which is also a must in my opinion. like i said above, i may be a bit too high end for most peoples budget but with car audio you honestly get what you pay for. i already hear it coming with people asking me what i run

this is just my regals setup, in case you have not noticed yet i am a huge eclipse fan

head-eclipse 55090 dvd head-no screen
dsp-eclipse 39011 dolby
sub amp-eclipse premium 34230
sub-eclipse 12" titanium
mids/highs amps- eclipse premiums, cant remeber numbers but one is 200x4 and the other 2 are 180x2
front stage-mb quart premium 4", eclipse 5.25 components
rear stage-eclipse 5.25 point source
150 amp alternator
3 optimas
all stinger and tsunami wires

did i mention video.....
 
Currently, I have a 13 year old Alpine CD player that has a broken display and a set of 4 in speakers stuck to the rear floor with the magnets holding them in place and old socks wrapped around the back side to cut down on resonance. However, this is just so that I have something to listen to when I get stuck driving my gutted project before I finally finish paint and assembly. For that time, I have a better setup waiting to be installed. I have a system that came out of a friend's Altima when he traded it. It consists of a Alpine CD player, Cobalt 10's ( old, but they work!) in a 5th order box, 1,000 watts of Alpine amps ( 3 in total), Pioneer triaxial 6x9's, the door speaker grilles and speakers out of a Regal with the factory "Concert Sound II" setup. I will replace the old GM door and dash speakers with something more modern ( 5 1/4" door speakers and adapting tweeters under the dash grilles). I also rewired the car with new speaker wire, running it behind the dash and inside the stock looms so that it stays invisible.
 
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