Tail lights and side markers and dash lights not working HELP!
- Thread starter Daniel23
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you need to determine what fuses have no power. I the dead wires are constant power then you need to check their power source
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So I replaced the radio fuse, along with the tail lp, and power ant. Now lights and chimes all work.... But I still get no response from test light on tail lp fuse power ant, radio, pwr a cry. It's almost as if the inner left side gives a reading and the right hand side doesn't. So that means those have open circuit I need to pursue?you need to determine what fuses have no power. I the dead wires are constant power then you need to check their power source
I'm referring to the actual side of the fuse box. I drew an imaginary line to split the fuse box in half. So the left hand side(all are getting positive reading ) and those in the right side ;nothing as far as feedback from tester.
pardon me, but i misplaced my wiring diagram book, so I'm flying a little blind.
iirc, the tail lamp and power ant feeds are hot at all times, same with acc power, they may use separate fuseable links. if you have no power to either side of the fuse, in the fuse block, then you may have a bad power feed wire from the starter to the fuseable link, at the firewall junction, or splice.
the radio fuse uses switched power, meaning the ignition sw must be turned on for power to go to the fuse.
iirc, the tail lamp and power ant feeds are hot at all times, same with acc power, they may use separate fuseable links. if you have no power to either side of the fuse, in the fuse block, then you may have a bad power feed wire from the starter to the fuseable link, at the firewall junction, or splice.
the radio fuse uses switched power, meaning the ignition sw must be turned on for power to go to the fuse.
I'm referring to the actual side of the fuse box. I drew an imaginary line to split the fuse box in half. So the left hand side(all are getting positive reading ) and those in the right side ;nothing as far as feedback from tester.
I know it sounds crazy but that was the best way I could think to describe it. I'm going to start with the fusible link at the starter, it does seem to be in a bind between the pos lead to the starter.
i agree. the wiring on these cars are fairly simple and straight forward. and the fuses are a great place to start. now that we know there is no power to some of the fuses, we just need to trace down the problem between them and the battery.
as pontiacgp has stated in a previous post, fuseable links are designed to blow, or in most cases, they melt. when they melt, they leave a void in the insulation, or may even melt the insulation. a quick check for a melted link is to pull on it. if it stretches or breaks, its bad.
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