Thanks for the heads up on the vent/vaccuum setup. It does have it and I'll be sure it's in good shape. It appears to be but I'll test it too. Thanks for the kind words and for following along.
Texas82GP's Roadmaster
- Thread starter Texas82GP
- Start date
I think the opti is a good idea hampered by cost cutting Tooling tooling and manufacture. There are multiple other locations that would be functionally better but prohibitive from a cost perspective.
I know I'm glad the distributor isn't in the back like a Gen I small block, at least in this car, under the windshield. This engine really needed a distributorless setup like the LS but I guess the electronics weren't there yet. I know I appreciate the distributorless setup more now. The good thing about this project is I have a much better idea of what I really have and all the new parts should yield a lot of reliability.
GM had DIS long before the Optispark.
When you get the rotor off you'll be able to remove the cover plate and see the vane wheel that the sensor reads. That's the accuracy feature that made Optispark better than standard DIS, at least in theory. Many Japanese manufacturers used distributors that had similar internals. Really, they're pretty reliable. I never replaced a bad Optispark that wasn't caused by a leaking water pump. And almost every time the customer admitted that they'd been warned.
When you get the rotor off you'll be able to remove the cover plate and see the vane wheel that the sensor reads. That's the accuracy feature that made Optispark better than standard DIS, at least in theory. Many Japanese manufacturers used distributors that had similar internals. Really, they're pretty reliable. I never replaced a bad Optispark that wasn't caused by a leaking water pump. And almost every time the customer admitted that they'd been warned.
I own a 95 roadmaster wagon and have a few tips for water pump/ tune up. Make sure you put the o-rings on the water pump shaft and stub coming from the timing cover . grease the water pump drive coupler splines lightly with the grooved end facing the engine. Use thread sealer on the water pump bolts! With the opti spark locktite the rotor screws,get a quality cap and rotor and when installing either grease or rtv the o rings , before installing check if it holds vacuum. The wires are a big job and the # 7 wire runs thru a metal channel bolted to the block which can be problematic to remove so I remove the spark plug boot and feed it thru instead of removing the bracket.passenger side wires make sure they are in the holder behind the ps pump! Btw that is a clean roadmaster!!
No thanks. The 4.6 is part of what scared me off from the Crown Vic/Grand Marquis platform. I know it is a good engine. I'm just not that familiar with it and it seems a little less friendly to work on.
Good information. I watched some videos today and you're right. Working on those F and Y bodies with an LT1 doesn't look fun.
Thanks for the kind words about the car and the tips on this job. They are very much appreciated.
So after watching some videos I'm stating to think I'd be a fool not to replace the three seals in the timing cover. I'm aware there is a special tool needed to install the seal for the water pump drive. It is readily availabe and inexpensive. What do you guys think? I'd hate to put all this together just to have it spring an oil leak at one of these seals sometime later down the road.
Buy the tool and gasket kit. Cheap insurance.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFKBPSF/?tag=gbody-20
I already bought both on Amazon. I was just wondering if anybody was going to try to talk me out of replacing all three seals. Seems like the thing to do while you're in there. I don't see any reason to pull the timing cover, since I don't see any signs of leakage there and if you do, you're into doing the oil pan gasket as well. You have to stop somewhere.
