Great job but damn it, Seeing your work is going to make me paint my crusty parts now! With all the horror stories I’ve heard, I get nervous just handling my opti. I bought the E4 socket but haven’t mustered the balls to open it up yet. My hub has that wear line too, and I was just going to leave it since it wasn’t leaking but maybe I’ll hit it with a scotch brite pad before reinstall. I bought new VC gaskets too but those aren’t leaking so I’ll probably leave well enough alone. My next project after the motor is reassembled is dropping the tank and fixing the sending unit. Ran the pig out of gas twice because it’s actually empty when the gauge shows 1/8 tank. Keep the updates coming because it’s motivating me to get all my similar work done too. I’ll be taking the whole fam in the Imp on the power tour this year and would never hear the end if we had a breakdown!
Your engine looked so nice I figured you were already done! It's hard for me to imagine crusty parts on yours after seeing that picture in the "What did you do to your non-G" thread. I'm glad my project is motivating. I wouldn't be intimidated by the optispark. It's really a simple machine. I'm a "since I'm in here" kind of guy because I want to do things once and move on to other things. I hate doing things twice. Still, mine ran 105k miles and you aren't having any trouble with yours so why crack into it? If you do open it, you might as well put a new cap and rotor on it. If I was in your shoes, I would test it to make sure it is holding vacuum and I would replace the O-rings on the shaft where it goes into the cam. I used the same ones that came in the timing cover gasket set for the water pump shaft. The GM part number for those O-rings is discontinued. I read several threads where guys are using those water pump shaft O-rings. Fel-Pro 407. If you Google it, they are listed as valve stem seals for some applications so I'm sure they are tough enough for the job. They seem to fit quite well, though I haven't installed the distributor yet. I was really pleased I was able to polish away that little line on my balancer hub. I couldn't feel it with my fingernail so my intuition was it was fine but I hate leaks, and again, I hate doing stuff twice so I wanted to get this as right as possible. Post some pictures of your car in here. I'm becoming a B-body enthusiast. What year did you say it was? I hope your run on the PowerTour goes very smoothly. What a great car to take cross country.
If you're talking about the same PCV hose I'm thinking of, Dorman used to have a universal variety pack that might help. Maybe use a spark plug boot in a pinch.
Thanks for the reply. The problem with the Dorman stuff is you can't get any dimensions online. I went to AutoZone, Advance, Napa and O'Reilly on Sunday to look at what they had. I came up with a cobbled together solution but deemed it unacceptable. I had read about the spark plug boot and was considering going that route. It would likely require constant tension clamps though.
That is a pretty cool car, but you seem to find any reason not to work on the red one. I would love to find a car like that for a daily driver. Keep up the good work. That line where the seal road is no big deal. Even if it was a little worse it most likely would have not leaked. If they are scored pretty bad, you can fix it with a speedy sleave.
Thanks Zach, it's good to have you in the thread. I know it seems like I don't want to work on the GP but that isn't the case. Really, I bought that car at the wrong time. I was already committed to helping my Dad and my brother with their cars. Now that their cars are substantially complete, I have more time for my projects. This Roadmaster just came along when it did. I've been looking for a few years. This was the car I wanted. I wanted white. I wanted a 96 if possible to get the best power output out of the LT1 and the most refinement in the car. I wanted cloth interior. I couldn't afford one of the "reconditioned" cars that you see at places like Gateway Classics that want $10k-$15k for one of these. For the price, I just couldn't pass it up. This car will do a good job of being backup to the truck, which I need. If the truck goes down, I have something to drive. In years past, I could borrow a truck or last year I used what was my mom's car but neither of those avenues are available to me now. Once I get the Roadmaster reliable I'll be looking to get on the GP. I'll likely do some sweating this summer working on it rather than sit this summer out. It's time.
For that "fitting" with the evap hose.... it's GM p/n 10105324. Nipple isn't available separate from GM. Have to buy the whole kit/tube. My old Camaro had that very elbow go bad UNDER WARRANTY for cripes sake. When the part came in, I just popped the nipple off the new one and swapped the old one on the dealership tube. 5 minutes and it was done.
Unobtanium? YES! Has been for almost 20 years. Not available ANYWHERE......not that I can find anyway.
DRIVEN is correct. There was an old "trick" that the Impala SS crowd guys used that worked well and that's taking a good quality old 90 degree spark plug boot and slipped it in place. Depending on the wire size. Should work ok with 7mm wires. If not, a little dab of sealer on the little end should do it fine. I've personally never tried it though, although reports say it works.
But y'all know me. If there's a way to find a part, I can usually track it down. Granted, it's for "corvette" so it's automatically pricey at $19.95, but it's the rubber bits of the metal tube unit that is no longer available. It comes with the dual ID hose nipple you seek. Well, you be the judge.
https://corvetteparts.com/item/fuel...hrottle-body-vacuum-hose-lt1-engine-1992-1995
It says the rubber parts are part of p/n 10105324.
I think the elbow you want is the top hose in the picture. Which is included in the kit.
Thanks so much for taking the time to help me on my project. I really appreciate it. You are the man at finding this stuff! I had done a fair amount of searching and hadn't come across that. Yes, the top hose in that picture is indeed what I've been searching for. Yes, $30 shipped for a little rubber hose is a little ridiculous but it's worth it to me to fix it right. It also looks like it is a better quality hose than the original as it looks like it is thread reinforced like a coolant or fuel hose. I was preparing to use a spark plug boot but this is way better. Thanks again for the help!