The effect of intake air temp on engine temperature.

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I am betting you need a new rad, either a 2 core with 1" tubes or a 4 core aluminum rad will drop temps big time. Do you have a fan shroud? The Olds 455 has a tendency to run hot. I am setting up a dual snorkel ram air set up on my 70S, your sbc should not run that hot. I have a hood scoop and modified a factory Olds 260 air cleaner with an open top 10" lid so it can pull from the scoop and isolate from the motor.
 
may or may not have any bearing on the subject, but where does your heater core return plumb into the cooling system? is there a restrictor orifice in the manifold's heater hose outlet? (you could be blending slightly cooler temperature coolant from the heater core to the inlet of the water pump, and without that restrictor/orifice, pushing a good amount of it into the water pump(inlet, right behind the pulley, IF that's where your heater hose return is plumbed in...i don't know... without drawing "enough" from the cold side of the rad's tanks) but... i am only speculating since the last "diesel" rad i saw was long ago... i have used that port to monitor my cooling system to know if the rad was keeping up...(there is an uphill climb up the Coquihala that's 16 miles long, and it sure cools good on the way down that stretch i tell ya) (highway to hell was the tv show about it if memory serves me right...snow isn't the only thing we manufacture a lot of up here lol)

what amount of fan blade edge to shroud clearance is there? i yanked a 7 blade fan assembly from a 305 caprice with a factory towing package, and noticed a huge difference immediately. it had much tighter clearances to the shroud than the 5 blade one i started out with.

is the water pump turning in the right direction? (there has been a time or two around here when the wrong pump was given to a customer... just sayin'...) i heard of a situation 'round here of a "reverse" rotation pump having been installed by mistake once... but... if you are driving it for any length of time, it'd be safe to rule that one out...

r.

edit: highway thru hell
 
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Vacuum leaks and lean mixtures will make an engine run hot. Late timing from setting timing on a slipped harmonic damper will cause it too.
 
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It sounds like the car has run hot with a couple of different engines. As said a 7 blade is another good upgrade over the 5 blade fan. Does it run hot around town or on the highway or both? I would bet single digit at best as far as cooling the intake charge and dropping engine temperature. Filling the cross over in the heads definitely cools the intake charge, not so good for cool weather. Mine definitely ran worse in cool weather, the main reason I am going back to unfilled heads.
 
I agree with all the info on here (even mine 😛)
Try a 195 t stat, if that don't cut it, KEEP the t stat, go to an aluminum rad of comparable size. If that don't help, 7 blade fan and fan shroud from the same car. Make sure your heater hose routing is correct.
 
I Measured the distance from radiator today and it was four inches from the radiator to the front of the fan. It is also still equipped with the original fan shroud as well.I thought I might try adding a fan spacer to get the fan closer to the radiator , does anyone think that might help?
Somebody mentioned heater hose routing. How would that effect engine cooling?
 
well, there's a 160 deg t-stat correct? if your temp gauge's sender is reading off the intake passage "under" the t-stat, then something is either causing a recirculation between your water pump and the radiator. if it's reading near 200, as an example, and the rad is serviceable, then something isn't functioning according to the plan... almost simple.

while adding an extension to the water pump shaft sounds easy enuf, there "may" be a risk to the bushings in the pump(like holding up a book at full stretch extended out)

which motor was in that car to have the original shroud in place first of all? airflow could be stalling too if it was a v-6 car, but unsure how and if that would fit... perhaps an inoperative fan clutch too... but then, at speed you'd have airflow to help along....

do you have a picture or two of your hoses and routing, and of your shroud/fan arrangement? those could help... otherwise, there could have been a mouse nest in the cooling system before you installed that motor... weird things happen!!!

a picture says 1000 words... without mouse nests getting involved.

r.

4" from rad? need to see the shrouding...
 
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