The effect of intake air temp on engine temperature.
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i've spit belts off a different arrangement, and as long as that car was moving, the airflow alone would turn the fan/pump. on a bright sunny day, the battery light wasn't visible. in a crosswind with that set-up, until it was fixed, the air would stall(overheat). a different "triangulated" alternator mount assembly cured the spit belts coming out of passing gear. (it's when i figured out it was happening)
i picked up a good runner one time, buddy had 2 1957 chevys in the garage... he sells me a motor from under the bench. all good! went to a dual plane manifold instead of the edelbrock streetmaster single plane, and then all this freakin bird seed poured out of the intake, spilled out of passages in the head. 
... next thing i did was change out some frost plugs, head gaskets... pretty good score for a 200$ motor i thought...
like i said, weird things happen sometimes. let's just hope there was a thermostat housing and t-stat on that motor before you installed it.
... next thing i did was change out some frost plugs, head gaskets... pretty good score for a 200$ motor i thought... like i said, weird things happen sometimes. let's just hope there was a thermostat housing and t-stat on that motor before you installed it.
how new is the belt that ties crank-waterpump-alternator? is there three point contact between alternator and motor? like 307and403 mentioned too and is beginning to be the common denominator... it sounds like more than one motor is involved... where'd the rad come from?
Two engines - same problem I'm going to point my finger at the gauge or the radiator. Watching your gauge on warm up you should be able to tell when the stat opens. At 160 when the stat opens you should see the temp drop slightly and hold there for a while before going up. If it does I'd question the radiator, if not the gauge. Is it a dependable gauge?? Other things have been brought up, the biggest effect would be retarded or lean. 48 deg total timing(no vac adv) is too much. Too answer your question, which I think it has been answered, the air temp will have min. effect on engine temp.
The car was a original 307 car. Factory fan shroud. It has the factory fan with the H/D fan clutch for a 87 442 olds which was replaced a few years ago. Radiator is a 3 row diesel radiator that I bought from advance auto parts. The temp sender is in the port right besides the thermostat housing in the intake.
I also tried a twin electric fan unit a few years back from flexilite. It was wired with a thermostatic switch and all. The car runs cooler with the mechanical fan than it did with the electric.
I installed a Vintage Air A/C unit a few years back hence the reason I was asking about hose routing and the effect it would have on cooling.
I also tried a twin electric fan unit a few years back from flexilite. It was wired with a thermostatic switch and all. The car runs cooler with the mechanical fan than it did with the electric.
I installed a Vintage Air A/C unit a few years back hence the reason I was asking about hose routing and the effect it would have on cooling.
1. Bleed the cooling system properly - air pockets are the devil. Start by raising the front end of the car ensuring the rad cap is the highest point of the cooling system. Fun fact: hot air rises;
2. Drill at least one 1/8" hole in the outer ring of the thermostat, even if it has one already - helps with the bleeding;
3. Is the factory shrouding/ducting still on the front side of the core support to the grille? Air will follow the path of least resistance which isn't through the radiator's fins;
4. Seal everything around the rad and its core, shrouds, ducting, core support. If you can shine light past it, it is leaking. You can get nice foam from the plumbing section at Home Depot used for pipe insulation and stick on weather stripping. Or use pool noodles;
5. Is the airdam under the core support? If not find or make one, this helps improve the air flow by improving the low pressure area behind the rad/in the engine bay at speed;
6. Try Waterwetter or a waterless type coolant to improve the boiling point and/or remove surface tension and water pockets; and
7. Get an electric fan. It is 2017. Seriously.
2. Drill at least one 1/8" hole in the outer ring of the thermostat, even if it has one already - helps with the bleeding;
3. Is the factory shrouding/ducting still on the front side of the core support to the grille? Air will follow the path of least resistance which isn't through the radiator's fins;
4. Seal everything around the rad and its core, shrouds, ducting, core support. If you can shine light past it, it is leaking. You can get nice foam from the plumbing section at Home Depot used for pipe insulation and stick on weather stripping. Or use pool noodles;
5. Is the airdam under the core support? If not find or make one, this helps improve the air flow by improving the low pressure area behind the rad/in the engine bay at speed;
6. Try Waterwetter or a waterless type coolant to improve the boiling point and/or remove surface tension and water pockets; and
7. Get an electric fan. It is 2017. Seriously.
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pardon me for all of that gobbledegook... hose routing "could" be the trouble "if" the coolant return from heater core is flowing very fast(no restrictor in that line "somewhere") and dumping back into the circulating coolant at or near the water pump's impeller.
potential there is to feed the water pump with heater core coolant bypassing the cooler stuff from the rad's outlet. if the heater core's coolant is "returned" to the system via little hose fitting in the tank(below the rad cap), then either the pump, t-stat, or temp sender is amiss.
start with the cheapest stuff first. t-stat/gasket, a different known sender unit, then water pump. cheap stuff first!
lilbowtie and 307-403((melville, an oldsmobile guy) can maybe add... hogged out heater core hose fittings(at the intake) aren't always the best thing for a cooling system. pop a heater hose off and see(the one coming from the intake manifold). if the flow from the heater core is coming out with as much flow as say a garden hose(it'll be under pressure compared to the larger water pump inlet hose, you may be bypassing the available cooler stuff from the rad)
potential there is to feed the water pump with heater core coolant bypassing the cooler stuff from the rad's outlet. if the heater core's coolant is "returned" to the system via little hose fitting in the tank(below the rad cap), then either the pump, t-stat, or temp sender is amiss.
start with the cheapest stuff first. t-stat/gasket, a different known sender unit, then water pump. cheap stuff first!
lilbowtie and 307-403((melville, an oldsmobile guy) can maybe add... hogged out heater core hose fittings(at the intake) aren't always the best thing for a cooling system. pop a heater hose off and see(the one coming from the intake manifold). if the flow from the heater core is coming out with as much flow as say a garden hose(it'll be under pressure compared to the larger water pump inlet hose, you may be bypassing the available cooler stuff from the rad)
Get a electric fan huh? I guess you didn't read me previous post......Seriously?
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