BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”

That exhaust looks t*ts!!!!!!!!

Just get some insulators between the body and those pipe hangers or the ladies will want to ride in the back a lot for some reason.

Yep, some sort of isolators will be used in the final iteration. I’m also contemplating wrapping the portions of the tailpipes that pass through the body with some titanium header wrap to keep things from rattling in case the pipes move around a bit while driving.

Some outstanding work that has gone into this.

Thank you, appreciate it!
 
Yes, this is the permanent home of the full time exhaust now. I have electric cutouts too, but they just dump off to the side underneath the car. You are 100% correct on all your comments and postulations.
Here’s a couple pics of the exhaust underneath the car.

View attachment 193329

View attachment 193330

View attachment 193332

View attachment 193331



Jeff, this revision I’m making to the exhaust routing has it now staying entirely underneath the floor boards. The exhaust pass-throughs that are visible from inside the car now will soon be underneath the floor. So no, there will be no need for any kind of cover or anything. No ways for exhaust or outside weather to make its way into the car, that’s why getting all the pinholes caught and welded up was so important.

Or perhaps you were meaning insulation from heat?
Thanks Donovan. I didn't understand how the exhaust system was going to be routed. So its going to be under the floor when its finished? Looking forward to seeing the finished floor now.
 
Back doin’ that voodoo that I do.

Now that the compressor swap is fully finished (lost roughly 2 weeks, not too bad considering), I’m back on the car. Decided to ease back into it, nothing too complicated just yet. So I decided to create the “floor” for the passenger side seatbelt box that Mike cut down.

Cut out and bent up a piece…

E94BAD85-0914-4FF0-B8E3-0A86218EACEC.jpeg


…then tacked it to the box and installed it for a test fit.

5F7EBD7C-FBC1-462C-B68C-1643B784B481.jpeg


As you can see, it’s fitting great. Check out how tight the flange fits to the body:

F8DF72D4-21A7-4675-A5F1-2515651BCDE5.jpeg


E98AF715-3A0A-48BC-9FD3-31B86FB9EDA3.jpeg


Happy with the fit, I burned the edges in solid from the outside, then dressed the welds down flush.

AF292570-0C5C-4B01-80EE-4C09C0F9DF91.jpeg


F313A2C7-A48C-47EB-9758-29654DF6492A.jpeg


A little more work to smooth everything out with the DA, much better.

954CA384-C17D-403A-933A-111E823AD411.jpeg


A look at the inside, I’m not even going to bother dressing these welds. It’s simply not worth the time and effort. I’ll run a nice smooth bead of seam sealer on the inside corners to seal it up and hide the welds, nobody will be any the wiser once it’s epoxied and painted.

226B4949-82D4-4569-AB3C-E9F43BC2400E.jpeg


Almost done, installed it again to drill through-holes to secure the flange to the body…

B682D863-EF4C-40C2-AEA7-93A713D47523.jpeg


…then took it back out to enlarge the holes in the flange to match the factory ones. I even found some original style screws to use to secure it.

1780B5F4-0681-4CB2-868D-550EAC5ECB57.jpeg


And done. Nice little Saturday afternoon project to get me back into the swing of things.

28F9EED0-3D93-46C8-BA8E-3E88EC0B082C.jpeg


578BA704-ACCF-4D2D-8E2F-D8E2728142FA.jpeg


Probably going to repeat the process on the driver’s side one next, then it’s onto creating the new body mount pedestals.

D.
 
Back doin’ that voodoo that I do.

Now that the compressor swap is fully finished (lost roughly 2 weeks, not too bad considering), I’m back on the car. Decided to ease back into it, nothing too complicated just yet. So I decided to create the “floor” for the passenger side seatbelt box that Mike cut down.

Cut out and bent up a piece…

View attachment 194243

…then tacked it to the box and installed it for a test fit.

View attachment 194244

As you can see, it’s fitting great. Check out how tight the flange fits to the body:

View attachment 194245

View attachment 194246

Happy with the fit, I burned the edges in solid from the outside, then dressed the welds down flush.

View attachment 194247

View attachment 194248

A little more work to smooth everything out with the DA, much better.

View attachment 194249

A look at the inside, I’m not even going to bother dressing these welds. It’s simply not worth the time and effort. I’ll run a nice smooth bead of seam sealer on the inside corners to seal it up and hide the welds, nobody will be any the wiser once it’s epoxied and painted.

View attachment 194250

Almost done, installed it again to drill through-holes to secure the flange to the body…

View attachment 194251

…then took it back out to enlarge the holes in the flange to match the factory ones. I even found some original style screws to use to secure it.

View attachment 194252

And done. Nice little Saturday afternoon project to get me back into the swing of things.

View attachment 194253

View attachment 194254

Probably going to repeat the process on the driver’s side one next, then it’s onto creating the new body mount pedestals.

D.
Nice little Saturday project... that would've taken me 4 attempts, 1 week, and still not looked as good! 🤣
 
Your making it look to easy D people are going to think I charge to much for what I do lol

Nice little Saturday project... that would've taken me 4 attempts, 1 week, and still not looked as good! 🤣

I was going to say similar. But probably a month or a year at the rate I'm going. 😆

Thanks guys. This was actually a fun little project, simple yet rewarding and didn’t drag on for days on end. It was also a great opportunity to start to put the new compressor through it’s paces and make it work a little. Which, it performed flawlessly I might add. What an absolute pleasure it is to use now.
 
Got the driver’s side cut-down seatbelt box done in 2 nights. Probably some of the best welding I’ve ever done on sheetmetal.

7EE24A0B-1DC0-4C86-BC60-82E0144D028C.jpeg


And just because I’m anal retentive and can’t leave anything alone, welds dressed down and metal finished out:

07E5A47B-F00A-4D62-B9F0-FF3D3B55B1CD.jpeg


CB76CC13-33E1-4B47-97F1-937E5CFC0502.jpeg


838BF49D-EDAC-4263-AA90-466B7B97771F.jpeg


Moar holes getting filled in is looking moar bettererer.

22EDBCF9-A43D-4F77-A9AF-9B5DE0309D0E.jpeg


8FD9A074-D8CB-4E08-98DC-6602123EB15C.jpeg
 
So, the design process of the body mount pedestals has begun, and let me tell you, it’s been much more difficult, time consuming, and frustrating than I thought it would be.

Spent almost 3 full nights designing this first version…

FDB660A7-178E-4F89-A577-16FDB7CBCBD5.jpeg


FB883CBB-643D-4F9B-A162-E30277DAAAFE.jpeg


85B23FDF-EF75-4536-8F94-8C88065B8AE8.jpeg


829A704E-D9CD-4F21-B381-27866F7A183E.jpeg


9852C1D3-0C86-48AC-9354-5AC6C9C6785A.jpeg


…then promptly decided it was probably overly complicated. If something seems more complicated than it really needs to be, it probably is. KISS principle, Keep It Simple Stupid. I’m no engineer by any stretch of the imagination, but it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out the basics. My whole initial design theory was to try and make them as modified inverse pyramids. Since these are critical load bearing and strengthening supports, they almost need to be designed as such. An upside down pyramid would be the strongest way to support the floor, crossmember, and weight. This also meant that while vertical bends to clear obstacles would be acceptable, horizontal bends would be out of the question. (Potential bending and failure points).

Unfortunately, due to physical limitations and the positioning of the exhaust tube, a true pyramid shape was not going to be possible.

So after the first design bombed, it was tear it all out and start over again on version 2.0. In keeping with the KISS principle, I decided on a much smaller and compact footprint. Run the vertical sections straight down instead of flared out like a pyramid, and see where that took me. I knew that the final version would be somewhat triangular in shape, simply due to necessity. The exhaust tubes bisect the mount areas on an angle, so the trick was to catch enough of the mount base to provide support.

So after an extremely late night up till 2:30 in the morning last night, this is what I came up with. I think it’s going to prove to be a viable solution.

84C25D92-5E71-45C8-AB53-217D722E7DCA.jpeg


2DACC78F-9B6E-43E7-90CD-4EC6621D5256.jpeg


A39B465D-69EC-4A78-B22E-77937D254CA1.jpeg


B5253BE8-C190-4191-A24D-F32F0FCE60A4.jpeg


77CFEB04-89BE-4EAA-A00D-067D5A0AEE72.jpeg


In place with all the obstacles, you can see what I had to contend with. Not impossible, just fairly difficult.

F4BADD94-6EDF-4B46-9FC0-A1DE433C6CA7.jpeg


530ED244-8A9C-4DDD-ADE6-4B828F43DDB2.jpeg


2F5078A4-2992-4278-8B85-2237F73C0F79.jpeg


62018D03-9D4E-4EB8-9A45-BBEBFA97EF4C.jpeg


It looks like part of it is hitting the pipe in the last picture, but it actually isn’t. It’s just a weird camera angle. I’ll probably end up bobbing the notched end around the exhaust pipe down to a flat straight piece for strength and simplicity reasons, but again, I feel this is the best and most viable solution to a complicated area.

Creating these cardboard templates was extremely effective in generating good, large sheets of cardboard into little tiny scraps. I know my generic plain white cardboard isn’t as high tech and fancy as motorheadmike ‘s frozen pizza cardboard templates, but it’ll have to suffice. 😜

Today's project is to carefully cut the template off and apart into its individual sections, then start transferring them onto sheetmetal to reproduce them in metal.
Here we go!
 
Oh, and thank God for Cleco clamps. I must’ve had that damn crossmember in and out over a hundred times. The Clecos were a lifesaver and made it possible to install and remove it as many times as required without wrecking anything and always getting it back in the exact same place every time.
 

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor