BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”

I hope this redesign shows much more cfm because 240 is very low for such a large cube air mover.

True, but the flow numbers are relative. 240 CFM may not seem like a lot in comparison to a good SBC or LS head, but Olds heads were never a great design to begin with. In stock form they flow somewhere in the neighborhood of 180ish CFM, so 240 is a substantial improvement.

The real story here with these heads is in their hidden potential. The additional material is there for porting the runner roofs to improve the angle to the valve. Also, these come stock with a six angle valve grind vs the 3 angle previous version, and the valves are already unshrouded with an improved and redesigned spark plug angle. These are the current “go-to” stock production aluminum head for big block Olds guys.
 
True, but the flow numbers are relative. 240 CFM may not seem like a lot in comparison to a good SBC or LS head, but Olds heads were never a great design to begin with. In stock form they flow somewhere in the neighborhood of 180ish CFM, so 240 is a substantial improvement.

The real story here with these heads is in their hidden potential. The additional material is there for porting the runner roofs to improve the angle to the valve. Also, these come stock with a six angle valve grind vs the 3 angle previous version, and the valves are already unshrouded with an improved and redesigned spark plug angle. These are the current “go-to” stock production aluminum head for big block Olds guys.
I know this about Olds designed heads. Are you going to do a port and polish job or have them done somewhere?
Basic understanding is that 240cfm can make around 480 horses but I think that would leave a lot on the table. Not that 480 is anything to scoff at. But 580 would be better.
 
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Up fairly soon after that will be trying to find a good roller cam and roller lifter retrofit kit, and quite possibly go to an Eddy air gap intake. Might as well go whole hog on this and make it worthwhile.
Give Howards Cams a look see when you do. They use Morel lifters for their kits as well. Their tech guy is great to talk with (my machinist knew him by name).

Hutch
 
Give Howards Cams a look see when you do. They use Morel lifters for their kits as well. Their tech guy is great to talk with (my machinist knew him by name).

Hutch

Thanks Hutch, will do. I also got some recommendations from ole Bruce (fleming442), and he suggested I contact Travato at BTR. Although I don’t know who he prefers.
 
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I don't think that set is the best example, there were ridges in the exhaust ports. They should be 20 to 30 cfm higher, maybe more. I think big valve BBO factory iron heads were around 215 cfm stock but still have the chambers that like a lot of timing and are early 60's technology. The long BBO intake runners are tough to beat for low end torque and these modern parts also allow decent HP to be made as well. I have the new Comp Evolution hydraulic roller lifters, yikes are they expensive, around $1000 CAD!
 
I don't think that set is the best example, there were ridges in the exhaust ports. They should be 20 to 30 cfm higher, maybe more. I think big valve BBO factory iron heads were around 215 cfm stock but still have the chambers that like a lot of timing and are early 60's technology. The long BBO intake runners are tough to beat for low end torque and these modern parts also allow decent HP to be made as well. I have the new Comp Evolution hydraulic roller lifters, yikes are they expensive, around $1000 CAD!
Monster BBO torque is perfect. Especially for cruising around town.
 
Been pretty quiet from me on the thread here (other than the news on the purchase of the new aluminum cylinder heads), and that’s because I’ve been suffering a real crisis of motivation lately.

I got laid out by the RSV virus a couple weeks back that’s been circulating lately for several days, and have had a really hard time getting back into the swing of things on the car ever since. The motivation and desire just hadn’t been there, and that was not helped by the sheer soul sucking monotony and decidedly unglamorous nature of the work that lay ahead.

As mentioned before, I’ve been trying to get to the point where I could shoot the rear firewall and sides in epoxy. Sounds simple enough right? The required attention to details decided otherwise. I’ve had to literally force myself to try and get at least something done every night, and it eventually paid off. The insides of the two sides from the “B” pillars back, from roof to floor got scuffed with red ScotchBrite, that was torturous enough. So many nooks and crannies it was mind numbing.

Then it was onto addressing the two little sections of rear wheelwells that are exposed, the interior panels won’t fully cover them without some modifications, so something had to be done. I had a little bit filler on these initially just to smooth them out, but had to grind some of it back to weld the firewall panel flanges to.

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I didn’t want the flanges left visible, so after mulling over my options, I hit upon a solution. I bridged the flanges and the wheelwells with some short strand fibreglass reinforced filler…

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…then skimmed that with a thin layer of regular filler.

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I got the new filler smoothed out and blended in nicely…

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…then addressed the transitions to the adjacent panels with a little bit of putty:

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While I had the bodywork materials out, I went over everything on the firewall with a fine tooth comb and puttied up any and all pinholes I could find. This took a whole day all by itself. The pieces of green tape were all the areas that needed attention!

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I then moved onto prepping the last of the flanges for seam sealing…

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…and got it applied:

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In the course of preparing everything, I had removed a lot of the excess factory seam sealer, and I do mean it was A LOT. Constant vacuuming out the interior. A couple of the areas had so much that I had no choice but to take out a couple of large chunks from the voids above the quarter windows. To close them back up, I picked up some 3M large void rigid foam filler:

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This stuff expands 10:1, so a little went a long ways. I dispensed some in the voids, then just let it do it’s thing and waited overnight.

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The next evening I trimmed off the excess, now they’re one less thing to worry about.

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The things that needed attention weren’t just limited to the body, the two modified seat belt boxes will get sprayed too, front and back. So they required prep work as well. I don’t have any pictures of them other than this one for reference of where the foam strip needs to be reapplied…

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…but they needed quite a bit of work to get all the galvanic corrosion removed and ready to be sprayed. I’ve already picked up some similar thickness foam that will be reapplied once the epoxy is cured.

Today I had Mike come over, and together we knocked out the last of the prep work and got the entire car masked up.

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I chose to not mask over the quarter and back windows to allow as much light in as possible, and to be able to access to some of the harder to reach areas from outside the car. It was a bit more work and material to do it this way, but will be worth it.

The seatbelt boxes were hung and are ready to go too:

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Thank gawd, the milestone is finally here.

Tomorrow night will be all about thoroughly blowing out and cleaning all the surfaces, and setting up the spray equipment. If all goes well, I should be shooting the black epoxy Tuesday night after dinner! Very much looking forward to that.
🤞🏻

All for now guys,

D.
 
Oh man. Your attention to detail about stuff i didn't even know about. Questions will be asked in the future especially about the foam stuff. But for now just waiting patiently for more.
 
Donovan, I think you have the patience of Job. More excellent work. Like you, I am looking forward to seeing the finished product. I also have questions about the foam stuff, but will wait. Are you also going to paint the floor? I know it will get carpet, but I'm assuming that you'll seal it up first.
 

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