BUILD THREAD “The Juggernaut”

Oct 14, 2008
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As usual Donovan, you do your research. The original BBO Performer is surprisingly good, actually closer to a RPM than the one on my 403, which more or less a stock intake in aluminum. The SBO version actually has smaller runners than the factory iron. Whether it runs faster than a Performer is the question. On a milder 455, even the Edelbrock RPM air gap, it didn't gain much on thedyno. Mark thought it might be the small plenum and a spacer might help or was just too mild a motor. I think the early Crosswind had issues, kind of like the early Procomp/Speedmaster heads. The later ones had much fewer issues. It will look more modern and won't cost power, which is important. Another huge bonus and wish a SBO version existed, bosses to easily convert to SEFI. Mine cost me $900 US to convert my RPM. And yes, Procomp sold rail kits for that intake for SEFI.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
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Feb 2, 2015
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Come on you didn't want to leave that advanced vacuum hyperloop on that manifold?

Hahaha, nope I’m good!
What Cauterize is referring to here is the previous owner/seller had a loop of vacuum hose running underneath the runners connecting the two vacuum ports together when I got it. Completely useless and ridiculous. I dunno, maybe he just ran out of plugs to put in them.
🤣

Better deals than the Red Deer swap meet. Pretty much retail here.

Good score!

Thanks Duke.

Went into work on a Sunday today to use the blast cabinet to clean up the swap meet intake. As I figured, it cleaned up like brand new.

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I’ll probably de-uglify it by cutting off some of the unused bosses, threaded holes, casting and parting lines etc before I go to use it, but for right now it looks much better.

Since I was at work anyways, I decided to take a couple of extra minutes to bolt the casters on the finished rotisserie pieces as well. They’ve been there the whole time, I’ve just never had the chance to get them on yet.

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Still waiting for Mike to get his azz in gear and get the rest of the pieces finished off, then at least it’ll be a complete assembly and ready to go for when I need it.
 
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Tony1968

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Jul 1, 2018
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Manifold looks killer already. And how lucky you are to be able to store stuff like that at work. I used to be able to do that and it was very helpful. Don't have that kinda room at home. Sometimes I miss working. Sometimes. Lol 😆
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
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Feb 2, 2015
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Another huge bonus and wish a SBO version existed, bosses to easily convert to SEFI. Mine cost me $900 US to convert my RPM. And yes, Procomp sold rail kits for that intake for SEFI.

Looks like you could make that intake EFI ready pretty easy! That'll really wake up the 455!

Yep, as noted but I forgot to mention, are the cast in bungs above the runners. As pointed out, they could be used for either SPFI or nitrous oxide injection.

Neither of which I’m ruling out over the long term. 😏
 
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Tony1968

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Jul 1, 2018
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Well guys, this will be kind of a special post for y’all today. It’s geared more towards the guys who have had trouble visualizing what I’ve had planned and have been working towards all these months.

With the floor and rear firewall now essentially done, I wanted to get the interior panels trimmed and fitted to the redesigned floor. I had intended to start with the lower rear panels, but quickly realized I actually had to start with the B pillar mouldings. One whole night spent just trimming and modifying these:

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The fit as you can see is very good, nice and tight with no gaps to look like they came that way. Don’t worry, these aren’t actually rare factory black B pillar mouldings, they’re blue ones that have been dyed black at some point in their life. And they’re not in the greatest of shape either. The plastic is starting to break down and get crumbly, and the stand-offs inside for the top two screws are split and crushed.
I’ve gotta source some better condition factory replacements, I’m not terribly enamoured with the looks of the aftermarket replacements available out there.

With the B pillar trims fit, I could move onto the lower rear pieces. The uppers I modified several years ago when I first had the firewall welded in, so that was a bit of a time saver. They just needed a little refinement to make them perfect. Careful measuring, and careful cutting:

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If you’re squeamish and the thought of cutting rare, one year only, factory black interior panels (which these are), you might wanna look away!

After several more hours of trimming and test fitting, I had both upper and lower rear panels fit nicely, with the new attachment holes drilled and the factory screws reinstalled. Pleased with how it was coming together, I naturally decided to take it to the next level.

Dug the large roll of jute out of the shed, cut and fit pieces to fit the floor, then cleaned up the racing harnesses and seats. Then installed all the pieces into the car for a final test fit and photo op.

So here ya go, this is for all the guys that seemed to have trouble visualizing my end goal. Naturally the jute will be covered with carpet and there will eventually be DynaMat sound deadening underneath it, but for now it covers up the bead rolling details that seemed to distract everyone.

No more words, just pictures for your perusal, but one final note: I have something special planned for the missing insert panels in the back, but you’ll just have to wait to see what that is.

Enjoy.

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D.
Donovan, going back in time here. I recently found out that mounting belts that far away from the seat isn't a great idea. I'm not a physics major but it has something to do with leverage and length of belts that during a collision applies more force AND due to the stretch of excessive belt length, can cause the seat to actually buckle and collapse causing great bodily harm. Saw pictures of the collapse with belt mounting as you have. If wanted I can find article or video for you. I know it would be a royal pita to change what you have but for safety sake I feel that you should do some digging into this issue.
 
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Supercharged111

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Oct 25, 2019
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Donovan, going back in time here. I recently found out that mounting belts that far away from the seat isn't a great idea. I'm not a physics major but it has something to do with leverage and length of belts that during a collision applies more force AND due to the stretch of excessive belt length, can cause the seat to actually buckle and collapse causing great bodily harm. Saw pictures of the collapse with belt mounting as you have. If wanted I can find article or video for you. I know it would be a royal pita to change what you have but for safety sake I feel that you should do some digging into this issue.

Which post # is that? Pics aren't showing in the quote.
 
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Supercharged111

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 25, 2019
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I recall the anchors were @ the rear seat firewall.

Is that for front seat 5/6 point harnesses? Well there is no back seat, so must be. The biggest thing to watch out for is the height of the anchor, it needs to be +/- an inch or so from the top of the driver's shoulders. Too low and you crush your spine in a wreck, too high and you're not held down in a rollover. With such a long run of harness, I would also be concerned about excessive stretch. Competition harnesses are designed to stretch in a wreck, that's the only give in a race car. No crumple zones, no airbags, etc.
 
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