Top End Kit for my Olds 350 in my 1987 Cutlass.

[olds307 and 403]

I have custom Venolia 2618 forged stroker pistons on Scat 6" sbc 2" journal rods. 4.390" bore and 3.5" stroke for 424 ci. I have #6 heads, fully ported with 2"/1.625" valves with dual springs, positoive seals, 1.72 roller rockers, RPM intake. Just need a custom cam, bearings, girdle and machine work. I will do a fresh valve job with 2.07" intake valves. These heads are on my 350, putting on another fresh set of #6 heads with 2.07" intake valves, no porting, maybe bowl work and mild springs on a stock 76 Olds 350 short block with .028" head gaskets and a custom cam, thinking it will be in the 325 HP range, my 70 S is a cruiser that will see the track. The 424 will be 10.5 to 1 compression with a large custom cam, big stall, 9" rear etc.

 

[spencer83]

In my eyes there are three cranks to have in a 350 olds.
1. Forged Steel 330 crank.
2. Crank from a 350 Diesel
3. Nodular Iron crank

anything else is just a paper weight. A very heavy paperweight.

I'm glad I got a good start with this crank. I want to do it right. I want to keep it Olds. My friend has the same year cutty. He's doing a Ls 2. I love the Ls motors to death but I'm going to be so proud of my rocket when it's done.

 

[MrSony]

I'm glad I got a good start with this crank. I want to do it right. I want to keep it Olds. My friend has the same year cutty. He's doing a Ls 2. I love the Ls motors to death but I'm going to be so proud of my rocket when it's done.

Felt the same about my Buick. Everyone I know was doing SBC swaps, and I wanted a Buick. Sure, it cost more, but it takes more skill and attention to detail for Buicks than it does for a SBC.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Yeah. But it can still fit 😛 And is the 330 really 100% drop in? No machine work?

Yes, the 330 drops right in, same stroke and journal sizes, just needs rebalanced and needs the unique flex plate, crank bolt pattern is different. A forged 330 crank that is crack free and is properly balanced should take 800 hp, the gas 350 is reliable to about 650 hp. The regular iron cranks are supposed to be good till 400 HP, more power than most SBO make. My 76 350 has that iron crank and has seen 5000+ rpms, no issues and will continue to see them in my 70 S.

 

[marcar1993]

Should be able to drop any small block crank in any small block, all gas small blocks share the same mains and 3.385 stroke and 2.5" mains

 

[spencer83]

Felt the same about my Buick. Everyone I know was doing SBC swaps, and I wanted a Buick. Sure, it cost more, but it takes more skill and attention to detail for Buicks than it does for a SBC.

You put respeck on that Buick. Honorable!

 

[spencer83]

I found some #4 heads from a guy that I bought my crank (330) from. Since I'll be getting the heads machined regardless... should I keep mine or grab the ones off of the 330 and have those machined? Does if make a difference?

 

[marcar1993]

You have what heads now, 3A? If so, definitely not worth touching those heads. They aren't good to start with, and they are prone to cracking.
The real question before you buy those heads is, do you have a full plan for this motor yet?
Maybe aluminum is the way to go? Maybe big block heads?

 

[spencer83]

You have what heads now, 3A? If so, definitely not worth touching those heads. They aren't good to start with, and they are prone to cracking.
The real question before you buy those heads is, do you have a full plan for this motor yet?
Maybe aluminum is the way to go? Maybe big block heads?

Not really to be honest. I purchased the crank and flexplate that's it so far.
I just want a nice motor with about 400 to 450 hp to play with on the weekend. Maybe a little nitrous, nothing too crazy.

 

[axisg]

You gotta figure out how much power you need to make and realize that everything else on the vehicle needs to be upgraded along with it. Transmission, driveshaft, rear end, suspension, etc. Include that in your budget accordingly.

Like this man says. 400hp will tear up your trans, good chance at breaking the rear, brakes wont like you either. If you want to drive the car and not end up busted on jackstands then you need to mod it for more power before the power. Start at the end and work your way forwards to the motor. IMO, brakes, trans, rear then the motor. A busted project you cannot drive sucks the life out of it. Sure those first few burnouts are great but looking at it broken in the driveway or needing to get it towed because you busted the rear, popped the shaft and fooked your fender is hard to look at. Ask Mr Sony, he will tell ya !