Top End Kit for my Olds 350 in my 1987 Cutlass.
- Thread starter spencer83
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Thanks. I will be upgrading everything. No rush. Right now is the intro/learning portion of this build. It's a lot but I'm craving the knowledge.
Boy do I know that. I did my build bass ackwards. I started at the front, because that's what was broken and I just needed the car to run as it was my only car. I cheaped out on the transmission, and I paid the price (literally). If it runs and drives now, or if you have another mode of transportation, take your time and start at the back like axisg said. It's good advice. I don't recall what rear end you have, but if you want 400hp, build the rear to handle 600. Give yourself leeway. A 12 bolt from a 68-72 Chevelle/malibu will fit with little to no mods. One from a 64-67 will fit as well. UMI makes control arms to bolt them in. Maybe upgrade the driveshaft and definitely the U joints if you plan on 400ish hp. If you want to spray it, BUILD IT FOR IT. You will blow the motor apart if you do it wrong. You'd need all the solenoids and the wiring and what not. You'll need an ignition box like an MSD 6AL box, an electronic distributor, and like I said BUILD the motor around nitrous use if you want to spray it, even if it's not right away. Gotta have large ring end gap, cold plugs (when you s;pray) need O2 bungs in the exhaust, etc. It's a whole ordeal.
There is a new light weight piston coming out in a 4.100" bore with 1mm ring packs with a 8cc dish. Should work well with the 330 heads. I would find a 76 or older 350 block, much easier to make your 400 HP and be reliable. A 5 main Halo or full girdle would help but requires more work and $$$ too install. I am actually staying fairly mild with my build because otherwise drivability will suffer and I would pushing the foward drum to thebnlimits and need more line pressure to keep my 2004R alive. A billet forward drum, $400 and deep pan, $200+ are just part of what is needed for your trans. The too small 7.5" will live with a Torsen posi, 3.73 gears, 28 spline axles and a girdle cover if you don't hook up. 400 sbc pistons, aftermarket either 1.88 or 2" journal rods and your 330 crank offset ground with the journals widened, is an option, 374 to 390 cubes are possible. The early block also has much thicker cylinder walls, 4.125" is no problem, some supposedly can go to 4.185". Your block MAY go to 4.125". Pontiac V8's from those years were also lightened, even the 400. If you want closer 450 HP, consider the 455. Also remember the Olds V8 has a much flatter torque curve and HP isn't the main focus. A true 400 HP motor will put you well into the 12's.
Isn't the 12 bolt like 2" wider on both sides and need conversion upper control arms? The 7.5" driveshaft is also spindley and should be upgraded for sure. I am considering a 9" housing for my 88 CSC, strong and parts everywhere. A 76 and older block should be used with nitrous.
The 68-72 12 bolts are 3 inches wider total from what I remember, 1.5 inches on both sides. And I mentioned UMI makes control arms for around 200 bucks that are tubular and have heim joints to bolt the rear into a g body. And yeah, NEVER use a windowed block with any power adder. Ever. Or if you do plan on making a whole bunch more windows in the block.
I should find another older block?
Yes, an older 68-76 block would be a good idea, since they will have solid main webs and are stronger. The late block can do 400hp with work, people do it to 403's with more rotating mass and the same windowed mains, but why build a windowed 350 when a good early block can be found for $1-200?
I would also say, if you are going the stroker route, why not get flat tops and go big block heads? Everyone agrees they are the head to do on a 403. I have them on mine and they work great. If you are coming into the upper 300 cubic inch range, why wouldn't it work the same for you? The only issue is that you will probably need to cut them a bit due to the big ~84cc chambers, but that's a cheap price to pay for the big flow, and they usually have the meat to cut them down a lot.
At this point, I think we are all still throwing ideas out, but why not look through some of the builds in that section of rop you posted in? There are plenty of motors in your power range, I'm sure there's a 350 build there doing what you are looking to do.
Also, I agree, don't forget to upgrade the rest of the car. You WILL NEED to upgrade the trans and rear if you expect to put down this power and actually have it last. My first 403 cooked a th350 and it wasn't that powerful (*maybe* 300hp at the flywheel). I then cooked another one cheaping out, not going to the right builder. I have had luck not blowing up rears, but traction has always been a problem, and that saves rears.
I would also say, if you are going the stroker route, why not get flat tops and go big block heads? Everyone agrees they are the head to do on a 403. I have them on mine and they work great. If you are coming into the upper 300 cubic inch range, why wouldn't it work the same for you? The only issue is that you will probably need to cut them a bit due to the big ~84cc chambers, but that's a cheap price to pay for the big flow, and they usually have the meat to cut them down a lot.
At this point, I think we are all still throwing ideas out, but why not look through some of the builds in that section of rop you posted in? There are plenty of motors in your power range, I'm sure there's a 350 build there doing what you are looking to do.
Also, I agree, don't forget to upgrade the rest of the car. You WILL NEED to upgrade the trans and rear if you expect to put down this power and actually have it last. My first 403 cooked a th350 and it wasn't that powerful (*maybe* 300hp at the flywheel). I then cooked another one cheaping out, not going to the right builder. I have had luck not blowing up rears, but traction has always been a problem, and that saves rears.
Well, if you want to put any nitrous to it, yes. IF you just want 350-400 NA horsepower, you will need a stud girdle. Your block is a 77-80, and they had windowed mains like the motor in the picture. Just an overall weaker block. They are still fine to tune and build, but are less strong than a 1968-1976 block. The bean shaped holes on the left side of the mains are the "windows". Olds did this to reduce weight. A side effect is reduced block bottom end strength. A stud girdle can help though.
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Don't worry though. As Marcar mentioned these engines are plentiful because frankly, if it's not a chevy 350, no body wants anything to do with them. Olds 350s are super cheap to buy, but the parts do cost a bit more. Going fast with class doesn't come Chevy cheap. You don't have to throw your engine away, you just have to take the necessary steps to beef it up. Or, just get a 68-76 solid main block, bore it .030 over, and use your 78-80 bottom end with new pistons and bearings. Badda-bing-badda-boom.
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