I tried to start my engine for the first time today. It seemed like it ran for a second or two then stopped because it ran out of gas.(It scared the crap out of my dad, he thought something blew up!) I got more gas and it is now backfiring through the carb, and caught it on fire once. Is that supposed to do that even though it ran for a little. Could my ignition timing or cam timing be off? I did put it on tdc and lined up the rotor with #1 wire, and lined up the dots right on the cam and crank gear. Can I have some input on where to look next? By the way this is the first engine I have ever rebuilt and tried to start. Thanks for the help.
Tried to start engine for the first time
- Thread starter dan2286
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make sure the wires are routed correctly, i STILL mix up #5 and #7 
how did you initially adjust the valves? are they hydraulic or solid? did you make sure that it's on TDC at the compression stroke? the best way to do that is to remove the drivers valve cover and watch the valves. wait for #1 intake valve to open, close, then go to TDC on the balancer.
how did you initially adjust the valves? are they hydraulic or solid? did you make sure that it's on TDC at the compression stroke? the best way to do that is to remove the drivers valve cover and watch the valves. wait for #1 intake valve to open, close, then go to TDC on the balancer.The wires are routed correctly. Its an Olds engine and valves are not adjustable. I have no idea if I had the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. So, basically I just watch for both valves to be closed after the intake valve opens and closes? I am almost positive that is the only thing I could have did wrong, especially since I did the timing chain with the heads off, and I didnt even think about that. Could I have gotten the ignition timing off that way also?
I also dont understand why it ran for a little if it is now backfiring.
Thank you for the help, I would have been lost with out it.
I also dont understand why it ran for a little if it is now backfiring.
Thank you for the help, I would have been lost with out it.
OK, I know this is gonna sound stupid. But trust me, I have seen your problem many times and it's almost always the same thing.
Make sure the distributer is in right. I have seen so many motors where it is out 180 degrees.
Again, I know it sounds to simple, but just check it.
Make sure the distributer is in right. I have seen so many motors where it is out 180 degrees.
Again, I know it sounds to simple, but just check it.
you sure about that? what engine/year is it? i've never heard of a system with no adjustment.
once the intake valve, on the right cylinder, closes, you're on the compression stroke. with the piston at TDC, now you position the distributor at #1
if the engine isn't on the compression stroke when you set the distributor then it'll still kick over and can seem to run for a sec but it'll fire up through the carb also.
The Olds engine valves are not adjustable. Both the intake and exhaust valve for each cylinder are fastened with a common pivot, that is held with two bolts, each torqued to 28 ft/lbs.
The valves are not adjusted on most Buick engines either that use a shaft common to all the rocker arms, such as the 231 common to G bodies. You just bolt the whole rocker assembly on, and torque the bolts to 30 ft/lbs.
The only way to make up for valve train tolerance problems on these types of engines is to use over or under length push rods. Most of the time you don't run in to any problems, and this greatly simplifies assembling the valve train. The lifter preload is compensated in to the assembly, if everything is in tolerance.
-UT-
The valves are not adjusted on most Buick engines either that use a shaft common to all the rocker arms, such as the 231 common to G bodies. You just bolt the whole rocker assembly on, and torque the bolts to 30 ft/lbs.
The only way to make up for valve train tolerance problems on these types of engines is to use over or under length push rods. Most of the time you don't run in to any problems, and this greatly simplifies assembling the valve train. The lifter preload is compensated in to the assembly, if everything is in tolerance.
-UT-
actually chevy motors are almost the only engine with hydrolic lifters that are adjustable the way we are used to. Most engines with hydrolic lifters have no adjustment with out buying parts to adjust tolerences. You should try doing a lash adjustment on a mid eighties mercedes v8 or any newer toyota nissan or subaru now those are dumb systems.
Phoenyx said:
Thats most likely what it is, and thats the first thing I will check. Like I said this is the first engine I have done and remember not checking what stroke its on.
Hopefully I wont do it on any more engines I do.- Status
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