Ok. I ordered a new cam sensor extension. And installed it. Car fires right up after the fuel pump primes. But sh*ts off almost immediately after. Kinda feels like the fuel pump loses power. If I try to crank after it shuts off it won’t turn over. Unless I turn key all the way back. Then after prime. BOOM. On again.
Twin turbo ls overheating issue
- Thread starter johnnunez29
- Start date
ALSO interestingly.
With this new cable the cam sensor lights on ecu never turn red. Stays blue/green. Before I swapped the cable one would go red and car still ran.
That’s the issue - the wiring for crank and run vs run only is not correct if you’re using a stock g-body key switch. That part of the wiring has nothing to do with the Holley, it is everything to do with how the car wiring is working. And the factory switch does not need to be reset to off to get the car to crank.
And that would also explains it shutting off after it starts.
I’m sure it’s not overheating presently because it won’t stay running, but after rereading your recent updates on that - does the car have an air dam directly under the radiator? And still running those turbos without covers?
Thanks for chiming in. I haven’t been looking at the over heating thing because it wasn’t stay on. I think there may have been some water that touched something under the dash. It’s been raining here almost non stop and cars missing the front windshield (has a car cover). I think that’s what’s causing the current issue that it won’t get voltage at all. Really there’s a couple things it may be. I also had the interior sand blasted and there was sand everywhere. Father Inlaw is going to run a relay to the ign and computer to get a direct 12v this weekend and see if that helps
cars over heating when idling. when driving it goes down. im going to wrap the manifolds and down pipes. When im idling it overheats if i open the hood the temp goes down. im going to get turbo covers when i figure this dam cam issue. again it won read rpm, but if i upload the cam free tune from holley it does read fine. it wont run now and i think its due to the cam sensor going bad. i am going to try a the 12v ign on a relay and check all the cam wires at ecu ( read someone had a similar issue and it turned out to be the cam wire at the ecu was not crimped on just heatshrinked.) Im not good with electrical stuff at all and cars currently at shop getting rear main replaced again (they misinstalled it the first time). i wish there was a holley expert locally lol. i checked grounds and they seem to be fine. two grounds at rear, one up front, the holley ones to the head.
3400cfm out of duals?! That seems weak, but I guess it's all you can ask from a pair of 12" fans. Sounds on par with some 4th gen Camaro factory fans, but I have a Lincoln MKVIII efan on my truck that pulls something like 5000cfm and I see even single 16" fans can pull over 3000cfm. Does this car have AC? If so, I suspect in the FL heat that 3400 won't cut it with AC blasting at a stoplight. But also unlikely to be the cause of the issue immediately at hand.
Unfortunately I’m very limited on space. My next step is a pair of 13” fans that blow almost 3600 cfm. Or get a shroud made and mount a pair of 2100 brushless fans on it. The 3600 cfm ones are spal. I have 2” max between radiator and charge pipe
I'm not a huge fan (see what I did there?) of shrouds with efans as they do block/shroud airflow through the core when at speed. Brushless FTW, but first we need to figure out why it gets so hot in the driveway.
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