Voltage drop on gauge

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Bri guy

G-Body Guru
May 18, 2018
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That splice in the photo was done at the factory. Not pretty but they are very reliable.
It looked strong....but i put a connector on it and some shrink tubing. Found this brittle sob. Felt like it might fall apart....im finding too many things😭
 

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pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
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Elderton, Pa
It looked strong....but i put a connector on it and some shrink tubing.
I try to shrink tube every splice/terminal that don't have a housing that I can. Those god awful scotch locks need to go. They have no use in automotive applications.
 
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Bri guy

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May 18, 2018
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I have a question. When i replaced my starter with a mini starter, one of the wires coming off the starter had another wire joining it later on before going into the firewall.... That "extra" wire goes behind the distributor and runs into these plugs. Why? I know its a power wire. But what purpose does it serve? Part of it goes to the plug on the heater/ac box. I want to eliminate anything thats not doing anything. Even unplugged, lights/blinkers/dash/guages seems to work
 

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Bri guy

G-Body Guru
May 18, 2018
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Does this need to be on the valve cover? Sorry for all the questions. I feel like im over loading this thread with alot of stuff
 

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pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
9,194
15,440
113
Elderton, Pa
I have a question. When i replaced my starter with a mini starter, one of the wires coming off the starter had another wire joining it later on before going into the firewall.... That "extra" wire goes behind the distributor and runs into these plugs. Why? I know its a power wire. But what purpose does it serve? Part of it goes to the plug on the heater/ac box. I want to eliminate anything thats not doing anything. Even unplugged, lights/blinkers/dash/guages seems to work
That looks to be your A/C harness which has the ground (black), blower hi-relay power (red), fast idle (light green), compressor switch (dark green) wires in it. The red is tied into the main red wires coming off the starter. I'm setting mine up so I can either go heater only box, heater-A/C box with no A/C or to be able to put A/C back in. One of my ideas I'm planning is to put a 30 amp ATO fuse for the blower with a junction block off the main circuit. Another (last choice) is to put a 6" 16 AWG fusible link in the same spot. I'm trying to work in a Maxi fuse box with a spot for it as my main choice. GM should of be never did fuse the blower which lead to the connector being melted.
 
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