I bought a set of the summit vortec heads. They told me I can't use the springs that are on the heads because I'm using a roller cam. I called summit and he told me I need beehive springs that were pretty expensive. I haven't picked out a cam yet but it will be in the .50ish range of lift. What springs should I use? Do I have to use beehive? Thank you
Vortec springs
- Thread starter chevyfan16
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I have vortec heads and when I changed my cam to a ZZ4 roller cam I also bought the ZZ4 valve springs which had titanium retainers that are a lot lighter than the steel ones. If you can find the ZZ4 springs online they usually have little run time on them cause ZZ4 engines are usually upgraded soon after the engine arrives. As for the springs on the vortec heads I wouldn't run any higher lift than .480.
If you can't find the ZZ4 valves used these GM performance springs are the same and cheaper than the beehive. I don't know if it comes with the retainers or the locks so I gave you a link to the lightweight retainers and the split locks. These springs are good up to a .525 lift
http://www.superchevyperformance.com/Sm ... 495494.htm
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/performanc ... D=753.html
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/performanc ... D=753.html
If you can't find the ZZ4 valves used these GM performance springs are the same and cheaper than the beehive. I don't know if it comes with the retainers or the locks so I gave you a link to the lightweight retainers and the split locks. These springs are good up to a .525 lift
http://www.superchevyperformance.com/Sm ... 495494.htm
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/performanc ... D=753.html
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/performanc ... D=753.html
Now if I use those springs to I need different retainers and keepers? Just wondering if I can use the retainers and keepers from the original springs. Can you also send me a link for your cam?
it's a nice cam for vortec heads...if you research vortecs you'll find they don't work well with high lift cams..as for the retainers I was shocked at the difference in weight and I think it's an important area to get rid of weight so the springs react quicker but I think the stock steel ones will work. The light weight retainers or caps as they call them are not expensive
http://sdparts.com/details/gm-performan ... s/10185071
http://sdparts.com/details/gm-performan ... s/12495492
http://sdparts.com/details/gm-performan ... s/10185071
http://sdparts.com/details/gm-performan ... s/12495492
But as you said they don't perform well with more lift? I thought the smaller running port would speed up and a higher lift would allow more air? No?
there is alot of info online about vortec heads so I suggest you take a look and make up your own mind based on what you read...
If you don't want to get the heads machined at all, and you have stock vortecs, then you need beehive springs, or a single spring woith no damper.
The valve guide on stock vortecs is fat. Too fat for anything other than a single spring (with no damper). If you machine the valve guide down you can run a fatter spring. The reason they are recomending beehives is that most beehive spings are a single spring with no damper, so they will fit around the stock valve guides with no modifications required. If you cut down the valve guides you can use normal springs.
Comp sells cutters for this so you can do it yourself instead of paying a machine shop. Part # 4726 and you need 11/32 arbor. I just did it last night. Its half an hours work. Just keep the bit lubed. I just used some cutting oil in a spray can to keep it cool.
The Dart vortecs are not as great as some other vortec castings. Typically most vortec heads stall around .550 lift. If your lift is only around .500 you're fine. Also, it's better to have a cam with more exhaust duration. The vortc intake port is awesome, the exhaust is just average. Make sure your cam has more exhaust duration. I am using a Comp xe268H. It has 268 intake (seat to seat) and 280 exhaust.
What is the rest of your build like? I love vortec heads. I'm not an expert, but I've built two motors now with them, and I'm working on my third right now. I am a huge fan of their performance for the cost. Lemme know if you have any questions hopefully I can answer stuff.
The valve guide on stock vortecs is fat. Too fat for anything other than a single spring (with no damper). If you machine the valve guide down you can run a fatter spring. The reason they are recomending beehives is that most beehive spings are a single spring with no damper, so they will fit around the stock valve guides with no modifications required. If you cut down the valve guides you can use normal springs.
Comp sells cutters for this so you can do it yourself instead of paying a machine shop. Part # 4726 and you need 11/32 arbor. I just did it last night. Its half an hours work. Just keep the bit lubed. I just used some cutting oil in a spray can to keep it cool.
The Dart vortecs are not as great as some other vortec castings. Typically most vortec heads stall around .550 lift. If your lift is only around .500 you're fine. Also, it's better to have a cam with more exhaust duration. The vortc intake port is awesome, the exhaust is just average. Make sure your cam has more exhaust duration. I am using a Comp xe268H. It has 268 intake (seat to seat) and 280 exhaust.
What is the rest of your build like? I love vortec heads. I'm not an expert, but I've built two motors now with them, and I'm working on my third right now. I am a huge fan of their performance for the cost. Lemme know if you have any questions hopefully I can answer stuff.
Well the springs that came with the heads have dampeners in them, but they won't work with a roller cam. My build is a 355 with forged flat tops with two valve reliefs. Scat crank and rods, these vortec heads with a rpm performer intake. I want to try that zz4 cam but an nervous about buying a cam without calling and seeing what they suggest with my build.
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