What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2020]

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The car does what it does, as long as you're wringing it's neck that's what counts. The videos never do justice to what's going on in the car. That said, it does sound like you're either holding back or still warming up to the car. What you want to hear in your video is the inputs stacked on top of each other, i.e. no delay between WOT and threshold braking. Jumping right from the brake and back to either maintenance throttle or corner exit throttle. This takes A LOT of seat time to get comfortable with because you have to give up your perceived margin for error. What you'll later realize is how much bigger that margin is than you realize. Kudos to you for hucking that beast around a road course, you had a nice clean line. Something I did for my Camaro and Z06 was grippy pedal covers. This made the otherwise impossible heel/toe downshift easy.


That and on the Z my wet boots no longer slipped on the pedals. Not sure if there's a compatible application for you or not. At the very least I'd conjure something up to get the gas closer to the brake. What do you run for brakes?
That was my first track day, I think 3rd session that day. I wasn't the fastest but not slowest lol I have alot to learn when it comes to road course, I come from an autocross back ground I wasn't used to that kind of speed. I ran c5 brakes front and rear with hawk pads. I definitely want to get more seat time with it now I'll have an engine that can hang a little better.
 

This is from the northeast muscle car challenge 2020 at Pittsburgh. Lame video because the car is sooo slow to exit the turns but still a blast.
When was this? Sounds fun
 
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That was my first track day, I think 3rd session that day. I wasn't the fastest but not slowest lol I have alot to learn when it comes to road course, I come from an autocross back ground I wasn't used to that kind of speed. I ran c5 brakes front and rear with hawk pads. I definitely want to get more seat time with it now I'll have an engine that can hang a little better.

Autox pads do come up short on the road course. What pad compound are you running? Brake fluid? Cooling? Even if you're new this stuff is crucial, you pick up massive chunks of time your first few days out and having rock solid brakes is critical to being able to lay down consistent laps. It's not a condition that can be replicated in the cones or on the street. A few hot laps in on a hot day will expose whatever weakness your brakes have. Also, excessively early application of the brakes will cook them too as they're being used for a longer time. Keep at it, racing is super addictive and also very rewarding.
 
Autox pads do come up short on the road course. What pad compound are you running? Brake fluid? Cooling? Even if you're new this stuff is crucial, you pick up massive chunks of time your first few days out and having rock solid brakes is critical to being able to lay down consistent laps. It's not a condition that can be replicated in the cones or on the street. A few hot laps in on a hot day will expose whatever weakness your brakes have. Also, excessively early application of the brakes will cook them too as they're being used for a longer time. Keep at it, racing is super addictive and also very rewarding.
What brake fluid; is the Wilwood 570 any good?
 
Autox pads do come up short on the road course. What pad compound are you running? Brake fluid? Cooling? Even if you're new this stuff is crucial, you pick up massive chunks of time your first few days out and having rock solid brakes is critical to being able to lay down consistent laps. It's not a condition that can be replicated in the cones or on the street. A few hot laps in on a hot day will expose whatever weakness your brakes have. Also, excessively early application of the brakes will cook them too as they're being used for a longer time. Keep at it, racing is super addictive and also very rewarding.
I dont recall the pad compound.. The brake fluid is a synthetic dot 4, the brakes held up great never noticed any fade pedal was always right there. The engine would creep up to 220-230ish after 5 or 6 laps, I'd make 1 cool down lap then go again. I'm more of an autocross guy so the car is set-up for that more so, but I do want to do more track days in the future.
 
What brake fluid; is the Wilwood 570 any good?

I ran it when I started and managed to boil it once. I usually run Castrol SRF, ~$75/liter and run it a full season. Never lost the pedal with SRF. For the last race of the season though I tried some Motul RBF600 as it's less compressible. While I could feel the difference, the sheer convenience of once a year changes is enough to keep with the SRF. The RBF600 won't go a full season as its wet boiling point isn't as high as the SRF.

I dont recall the pad compound.. The brake fluid is a synthetic dot 4, the brakes held up great never noticed any fade pedal was always right there. The engine would creep up to 220-230ish after 5 or 6 laps, I'd make 1 cool down lap then go again. I'm more of an autocross guy so the car is set-up for that more so, but I do want to do more track days in the future.

I got away with stock pads my first couple track outings in my Z06. They faded some, but not terribly. When I got some Carbotech XP10s up front I discovered what real braking was. You should keep getting faster, so I would definitely look to the future and start figuring out a brake cooling setup and be open to the idea of a higher rated fluid. I run Raybestos ST45 in the front of my Camaro. I ran the ST43 for years before that. I couldn't tell a difference, I've been fighting brake knockback and fade the last 2 seasons. I recommend dedicated rotors and the ST43 for you up front. If the Hawks aren't DTC60 or DTC70 you're leaving some braking force on the table. I've run the DTC70 before and it's a little touchy for my liking. Modulation wasn't quite as I would have liked and they didn't last worth a shjt and they're expensive. The Raybestos typically last a season for me, so about 6 weekends. They will dust and squeal like crazy on the street, but they still work well cold. I've run my car pegged 249 degrees for more races than I can count, that has oil well past the 300 degree mark on my gauge. I recommend an oil cooler too, I added one this season and dropped 30-40 degrees. It'll keep that nice new motor much happier on the road course. Just be sure it can get up to temp on the street too.
 
Started tearing down my front end for a full rebuild. I’m not sure what all this crap caked on everything is but damn it’s absolutely everywhere. I thought I’d get away with just doing the Blazer brake upgrade but no. Everything up front is absolutely shot. I have about half of the new stuff now, will need to save some more to get the rest and do it all at once.
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This is my first time doing suspension stuff so it’s definitely a trial by fire. I learned a good deal from watching my dad do it though, so I was surprised in how much I really did know how to do already. Knocked out the knuckle and ended up having to cut the shock where it bolts to the control arm as the j clip holding the bolt on one side came off and just spun with the bolt. Got to this point for the day. Need to grab a pry bar and pull this spring out then hit the other side.
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I dont recall the pad compound.. The brake fluid is a synthetic dot 4, the brakes held up great never noticed any fade pedal was always right there. The engine would creep up to 220-230ish after 5 or 6 laps, I'd make 1 cool down lap then go again. I'm more of an autocross guy so the car is set-up for that more so, but I do want to do more track days in the future.

Here's some motivation for ya, 260whp cars getting around the same track. Granted they're lighter, caged, etc. This is the class In race in, but I live in CO and race there.



Now for the on topic bit to justify that last one. So my TH400 doesn't seem to want to shift out of 1st when putt putting around. It requires WOT to grab gears and I haven't done that since the great 2nd gear 1 wheel peel of 2019. I am however getting dangerously close to tuning this carb to my liking so I need to figure this out. I'm beginning to suspect that the vacuum modulator is either faulty or my dad went full retard and cranked the adjustment down all the way. Once I'm walking off these stupid damn crutches we'll see. Gonna get it on the lift and address a number of issues here soon.
 
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