What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2021]

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CopperNick

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'78 Monte Carlo? Had one. Tossed the bench seat (actually it is sitting in the corner of the shop by the main door with a stack of 85 headlight buckets sitting on it) and put in a pair of Grand Prix buckets that matched the existing upholstery color. (Yeah, up on the mezzanine floor, snigger, snigger) It came with a 231 V-6 that was so done that it needed 50W in the winter to show any oil pressure. Tossed that, really Ah did, and plugged in my refugee 262 V-8 from my departed Monza. Ran that with a 350 turbo that almost had to have bananas stuffed down the filler tube to get the clutch plates to grab. Finally blew 2 out of it, shift was from 1 to 3 with just a momentary peek at 2 on the way by. Scored another 350 Turbo but discovered shortly there after that the only pair of body mounts that were still working were those under the rad cradle. Pulled the motor, tossed the resident transmission, kept the buckets and their matching back seat bottom and back, kept the motor, kept the rad cradle; it was out of a 78 cutlass and cherry, kept the gauge cluster, kept the steering mast assembly, kept the console that i had scored up at the yard,, got deep enough into it that I pulled and kept the dash!, and as many of the nuts and bolts and fiddly bits as I thought might prove useful and chucked the balance to the scrappers. Found out during the post mortem that the modifications I had my old garage do to go to dualies were so badly done that the crossmember had rusted out completely-even the welds that were supposed to hold the chunk of angle iron that was meant to be the brace to replace the sections that had been relieved to get the pipe room had rotted out. Tried to cut out the floor pan just to get to the stainless steel brake and gas lines that i had stuffed in as a preventive measure against salt rust but couldn't get at them; the body mounts had collapsed into the frame holes literally. (Did persevere and pulled the brakes eventually.

Ah, memories. it was ten years old when I found it and the owner's kids were pissed because I had bought their toy so they couldn't jump on it anymore; never did fix that dent in the hood. Got ten more years of mostly winter time driving out of it. Hated to see it go but the running joke most appropriate would have been the one about jacking up the horn button, pushing away the old car, and pushing its replacement under the button. That was about as much of the old car as was salvage-able. Oh yeah, did keep the rear end and drive shaft; the prop is now under my 85, seems the 350 yoke matches the tail shaft on a Muncie 4 spd!! More fun.
 

tkruger

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May 6, 2015
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What did you pull it out of & what mods to the side was needed to mount it since they don't have the multi mount points like the older ones.
I am not sure what this one is out of. I received it from a friend. Someone one else posted that it was in GM trucks. It style is like the on in my Silverado. There was a stud in the rear of it that lined up with the hole for the original radio. I trimmed the tabs to make them narrower so it fit in the opening but did not slide in to far. It is not bolted in place. When the front plate is screwed in it holds the radio securely in place. It is is just long enough to fit between the rear hole and the faceplate. Amazon carried an 21 pin adapter made by Metra that allowed this radio to connect directly to the factory harness. They also had an antenna adapter. Nice having a CD without it sticking out so far. I have about $20 into the whole thing.
 
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pagrunt

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I am not sure what this one is out of. I received it from a friend. Someone one else posted that it was in GM trucks. It style is like the on in my Silverado. There was a stud in the rear of it that lined up with the hole for the original radio. I trimmed the tabs to make them narrower so it fit in the opening but did not slide in to far. It is not bolted in place. When the front plate is screwed in it holds the radio securely in place. It is is just long enough to fit between the rear hole and the faceplate. Amazon carried an 21 pin adapter made by Metra that allowed this radio to connect directly to the factory harness. They also had an antenna adapter. Nice having a CD without it sticking out so far. I have about $20 into the whole thing.
I'll have to do a test fit with the one I got out of a '00 Malibu to see if it'll sit like yours. As for the adapter harness, I actually have two GM ones that I have had for over 25 years.
 

Ribbedroof

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Looks like the one that was in my 98 Tahoe as well....which i pulled out of a Lumina
 

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
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Feb 2, 2015
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Picked up the old N78 442 wheel I had dropped off at my buddy Colecraft Custom Machining today. I had him clean up the aluminum oxidation and pitting on the outer lip caused by those shitty crimp on wheel weights in his CNC mill.

This wheel and a full size tire is destined to replace the tempa-spare spare tire in the trunk of Olds Cool.

Got some work to do now to get it to match the other 4!

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DSPbuilt

G-Body Guru
Jan 7, 2016
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Not necessary today but I sold the daily on friday so now the cutlass is the daily.
There is a lot I need to do to make thing right on but the money from the sierra selling in gonna fund it.
I'll be posting on the what did you buy thread in a little but the list is quite long 🤭
 
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CopperNick

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Finally flipped the tarp off the two S-10 alloy rims that I scored a while back and proceeded to see what I could do about them being murdered out by a former owner.

Come to find out that Mr. Previous basically just shot a can of gloss black over every surface he/she could get to and left it at that. Didn't even strip the original finish before hand.

As a trial I elected to chuck a 80 gr 3" sanding wheel into the air drill and see what it would take to remove a certain amount of the nastiness. About two hours later the spoke faces were back to being bare aluminum and all the original paint/powder/? had been scrubbed away. Went ahead and hand sanded the lip/shoulder on the outer edge to get it to match.

A fast call and visit to the local Auto Body Supply shop got me some finer grit wheels, 800gr is the finest and the strategy is to get the aluminum as smooth and reflective as possible and then either clear coat it or buff it and then go clear. The shoulders and insets of the spokes I may just color sand to remove the gloss and get them smooth and then shoot a light top coat of maroon to match the body color that the car will end up having. After that, more clear.

The end user for these will be my Monte; the S-10 already has a complete set of its own.



Nick
 
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pagrunt

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Made plug wires, screwed up the lenth of a few & redid, ran out of light & have the #3 wire still need to be done. OCD was in full effect trying to make them look better than they should.
 
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CopperNick

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BMX_coon, like the continuity of finish that you were able to achieve. Sometimes the sun and wind and age conspire to make a color match, even at the primer or flat finish level, hard to attain. Are you going to stay with the night stalker look or apply an overcoat of matte clear to seal what you have and keep the rust demons from infecting the panels?
 
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