What Did You Do To Your G-Body Today? [2023]

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Try Amazon, pretty sure they have or offer the stainless steel cup holder inserts. Either that or your nearest marine/boat accessory dealer. Even possible to make them; saw it done on the Guild Garage series done from stainless tube and flat sheet plate plus a little bit of tigging to put it all together.


Nick
 
It's been in iowa since July of '85, but the only rust and rot on the frame were where the 4 rear body mounts were on the top side inbetween the frame and body, as well as the corresponding captured nuts in the body. there isn't so much as a pinhole in the floors, doors, fenders, rockers, etc. I will say the vinyl top left some things to be desired, but that's with every car.
I'll try to fix/reinforce the LCA shock mounts this weekend. Might make me some of these:
plates.jpg


If that doesn't work out, then new upper and lower control arms are on my radar.
arms.JPG
 
It's been in iowa since July of '85, but the only rust and rot on the frame were where the 4 rear body mounts were on the top side inbetween the frame and body, as well as the corresponding captured nuts in the body. there isn't so much as a pinhole in the floors, doors, fenders, rockers, etc. I will say the vinyl top left some things to be desired, but that's with every car.
I'll try to fix/reinforce the LCA shock mounts this weekend. Might make me some of these:
View attachment 236083

If that doesn't work out, then new upper and lower control arms are on my radar.
View attachment 236084
Just a heads up on those control arms in the name of safety: Not all brands are made to OEM strength since they're intended for circle track racers who swap them out regularly. Some of them fold up easier than others. Boxing the bottoms helps, but I decided that the Moog R series was the best budget option for me, although your needs may be different.

The Speedway tubular lowers are actually cheaper right now, and come complete with ball joints and bushings.
 
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I might be the slowest "car guy" in the world. It takes me 3x the amount of time it takes most G-Body guys to do simple task. I was outside for 3+ hours taking out this dash, a bunch of those minutes wasted looking for tools I could have sworn were somewhere that they weren't. Anyway, I got the dash out. Not only does it need to be repaired/covered, I need to blast and clean that entire area from body work prison. This also gives me an opportunity to change all of the gauge cluster bulbs to LED.

c2a1928875c3e22a5c23a4bc3770c531cb85d1cd-1.jpg



8e3cbf7559cba87d0043f8b86c3a399902a88264-1.jpg
 
I might be the slowest "car guy" in the world. It takes me 3x the amount of time it takes most G-Body guys to do simple task. I was outside for 3+ hours taking out this dash, a bunch of those minutes wasted looking for tools I could have sworn were somewhere that they weren't. Anyway, I got the dash out. Not only does it need to be repaired/covered, I need to blast and clean that entire area from body work prison. This also gives me an opportunity to change all of the gauge cluster bulbs to LED.

View attachment 236085


View attachment 236086
Don't feel bad I am sure I am probably at the same pace, always looking for tools I just had
 
Just a heads up on those control arms in the name of safety: Not all brands are made to OEM strength since they're intended for circle track racers who swap them out regularly. Some of them fold up easier than others. Boxing the bottoms helps, but I decided that the Moog R series was the best budget option for me, although your needs may be different.

The Speedway tubular lowers are actually cheaper right now, and come complete with ball joints and bushings.
Someone on here had ordered the speedway ones and the ship date was pushed into Sept '24 already and may go further out
 
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