What did you do to your G-Body today 2024

And one major and primary objective or milestone is now in sight................................


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This was the point of all that work and misery; one only, brand new, and just hung, outer rocker panel. I went with the plug welds as the factory had done. They can be spaced out evenly along the length of the flange and an air driven hole punch makes generating them a lot easier and faster than hand drilling them (been there, done that).


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Wanted a crisp shot for the close up but the closer I ran the lens the fuzzier things got. Apart from a few samples that actually look professional the balance will get dressed down to surface level. it will make re-installing the threshold and the other components easier when it comes time.


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Did get a clear close up of how the A Pillar section fits in place and relates to the rocker. If you look closely at the left side edge of the pillar where it curves down and out to line up with the rocker's top face you can just see the flange in the rocker that creates a depressed shoulder that the Pillar edge drops down into. This alignment was one of the things that i had to take into consideration since having that pillar edge sit proud or high would cause the door gap to be excessive and make the hinge alignment a MPITA. At this point, for the Pillar, the next step is to noogie it into as tight and precise a fit as possible and anchor it there with some tacks. After that I can "encourage" the fit make it sit as close as possible. This is, after all, old recycled parts being fit and adapted to an old vehicle, so some massaging of components is inevitable.



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And another reason for all the cutting and grinding. When I first asked about rocker covers I was shown something called a "cover". All this was, was a short section of stamped metal that fit over the damaged or rotten existing panel to camoflage the damage. it only spanned the distance between the two Pillars and went no farther. This is why.

The outer rocker panel for a G-Body is full length. This is the exposed cavity in the rear quarter panel just ahead of the rear wheel well and, as you can see, the end of the outer rocker panel butts up tight against the inner wheel house. I think that I mentioned earlier that when during repairs to that section of the wheel house I had found the remains of the flanges that are bent into the end of the rocker panel so that they can be plug welded to the wheel house by means of matching holes punched in the house metal. All very much Factory and done on an assemby jig on a production line. In this case what I might do is to create a thin section of body metal in the form of a shim to slip in between the rocker end and the inner face of the wheel house. I can then run in a couple of bridge welds to anchor the outer face of the rocker. It doesn't have to be a solid seam and certainly doesn't have to be pretty; once the new body panel get put in place it all gets hidden away. This isn't some TV show where all the quality of the raw metal finishing has to be displayed and critiqued. Using an interupted pattern of bridging will actually be better as it allows for some flex and movement where a full run seam could make things too rigid and possibly lead to cracks or tears.

So for today, more plug welds and seam work, not even thinking about thinking about the lower edge of the rocker panel...............................................:blam:





Nick
 
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Ah. my own personal go to tool for tight spots like that would be my Dremel motor with either a cut off wheel in it or a grinding wheel as alternative. They are inexpensive enough that you can hit the Home Depot and score one for reasonable $$$$. Buy a 5 pack of the cut off wheels and be prepared to break a couple; the steel centres pop free if stressed too heavily. along with the quick change mandrel that they mount to. You should have enough perimeter space around the bolt to get to that tack without injuring the bracket. You could also try using one of the stone grinding tip wheels if the space is too tight for the cut off wheel. If all else fails and you have the space, you could go caveman and try to cut the tack with a chisel and hammer. Use a pair of vice grips to hold the chisel, keeps your fingers away from the hammer and out of harm's way.


Nick

Thank you sir. I will heed your advice and try Tuesday or Wednesday. I have to take a mental break from these cars for now.
 
Thank you sir. I will heed your advice and try Tuesday or Wednesday. I have to take a mental break from these cars for now.
I found out that I don't have to remove those bolts. The control arm can come off the other side.
 
Plugged a tire.
I've actually never plugged a tire before. I've always either talked my dad into doing it or had it taken to a shop to be patched (if it was a new tire), or replaced the tire.

Always heard the harbor freight kits were sh*t, but it worked just fine.

Yes, it's a not very good place to have a plug, but it's holding.
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Got the new GM / AC Delco shift shaft in for the 700R4. Luckily that was an easy install as was the new filter and Torque Converter Clutch solenoid. Got that stuff done last night and put the pan back on and proceeded to strip one hole while clicking off the bolts. The problem one held the shift cable bracket. It was an 8mm bolt so I drilled it for a 10mm 1.25 pitch bolt. That went well and I can fill the trans tomorrow, ran out of time after a late start. Need to run a couple wires into the car for the actuator switch for the TCC, will need to run a pair to the brake switch as well. Not going with an automatic system, pressure and vacuum switch set up, just going to toggle it on and off as needed. Plan to pirate an idiot light off the dash as an indicator light for the TCC engagement. Should work fine, just very analog like the rest of the car.

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Today was supposed to be an afternoon of more door sill work................................................which lasted about 1-1/2 hours and then the #10 spool on the Miller ran dry. I did get all the welds that I had already laid from yesterday ground down smooth so that I could identify any low spots or cave ins that needed to be remedied. Had some not-so-happy-making fun with the drum sander mount for the Dremel Tool; it had some kind of indigestion or flu because it kept spittiing off the sanding sleeves. Did finally get that corrected but then the gun refused to feed/advance the wire and it was not that the wire had fused itself to the mig tip, (this time) Yep, out of .030. Sooooooo, that meant a trip to the industrial supply shop. What a shock right about now? The replacement spool of Mig wire ran me 27 bucks, tax included. That felt about right BUT, it turned out, the new 2 pk of protective sleeves that I also had asked for was 64 bucks, Plus TAX!!! Those copper, teflon lined guards from Miller are 32 CAD Each!?!? Left that on the counter and just picked up the wire. They would not have been for immediate use, just for stock as I had just fitted a new one only a few weeks ago.

Since I pretty much always try to have multiple reasons to go out and challenge the commuter squirrels, I did happen to have a couple of other errands and stops to make, they all happened to be along the same block in the industrial zone so that worked out. Best happenstance of the afternoon was seeing a 1970 White Buick GSX pull into the recycling shop across the street, which prompted me to go for a walk. All there, visually, but in less than pristine condition. Evidence that it had seen some prolonged use and probably some abuse as well, both overt or visible and some likely buried in its guts. Who ever the owner was, that individual had elected to paint over the "X" on the badging. That was the saddest thing of all. When I got up to the yard a few minutes later, the roll-roll operator knew the car and its owner. Didn't offer any encouragement as to whether it might be for sale and for that matter, where I would find the space to stash it.

Came back home and reloaded the welder and called it a day. Early start tomorrow as the Weatherheads are whining about rain again. 🙁.




Nick
 
Had the '80 down on the ground and got it warmed up to check the transmission fluid level. I put almost 8 quarts of transmission oil in the 700R4. Checked the engine oil as well as that was changed last week and hadn't run with the trans laid up for parts. 5 quarts was on the money on the dipstick. I pulled the car back onto the lift pads and need to adjust the shift cable again and check around for any leaks. Then onto getting it properly tuned and cleaning out the carburetor as it doesn't idle well. Here are a few shots outside tonight.

Before it gets mentioned, I know it sits a bit high but my reject from the 80's self loved the look back then and still do today. If it gets old I'll lower the rear a little to level it out, but the front is fine with me. Have no plans for carving corners!.

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After a couple days, I assembled the 9 inch chunk. It’s a bit heavy, being cast iron and all, but it wasn’t as bad as I though it would be.
That said, I’m not too confident on my gear pattern. It looks centered to me, but I’m not to confident it’s correct.
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Small addendum: went back to a .033 pinion shim pack with .008 backlash and got this:
Coast
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Drive
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I think I’m gonna go with that.
 
Eight quarts?? When I spec'd the fill amount for my 700 the manual gave me a value of 4.78 quarts. for a stock depth pan which is what I personally went with, albeit now made of aluminum and fitted with a drain plug for easier servicing should the need arise. A 5 litre jug of Dexron IV did the job quite nicely. Was your converter empty by any chance? Or are you running a deep pan? Just me here wondering because the shifts I am experiencing with the 700 are smooth as glass; you don't really feel the 2-3 upshift but the speedo lets you know right quick that you are a hair or less from exceeding the posted speed limits.



Nick
 

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