What did you do to your G-Body today 2024

Put the spacers back in, guess we will see how the wheels do when turning...

from
20240917_201833.jpg

to
20240917_202358.jpg
 
Just been driving it. Drives good.
Needs tires.
Wonder why....
burn out GIF
 
After a chat with Mac from SSM on Wednesday, I changed out the tall upper ball joints for stock units and changed out the front wheel studs for longer units to use spacers.
C157637A-2830-4F5B-B4F1-213D4E45F0C5.jpeg


A 1/4 inch spacer keeps the wheels off the control arms, and the UBJ change gained me 2 degrees of positive camber. Tomorrow afternoon I’m going to attempt to use an angle gauge and a level to get the camber setting back in spec.


I need to get a caster/camber gauge.
 
After a chat with Mac from SSM on Wednesday, I changed out the tall upper ball joints for stock units and changed out the front wheel studs for longer units to use spacers.
View attachment 246022

A 1/4 inch spacer keeps the wheels off the control arms, and the UBJ change gained me 2 degrees of positive camber. Tomorrow afternoon I’m going to attempt to use an angle gauge and a level to get the camber setting back in spec.


I need to get a caster/camber gauge.
Were you running the 1" taller ball joints that they offer?
 
Were you running the 1" taller ball joints that they offer?
I was running a set of 1” taller Proforged units with .5” taller lowers. The Speedway uppers I’m running are just copies of the stock units, with a little more caster added in but no more angle on the ball joint pad.
I think the uppers were binding and asked them about the travel their joints had, that led me to find out on a 3 inch front drop, the ball joint is above the pivot point of the control arm. And that was causing some wacky UBJ angles, on top of making the camber curve way too extreme.
 
I was running a set of 1” taller Proforged units with .5” taller lowers. The Speedway uppers I’m running are just copies of the stock units, with a little more caster added in but no more angle on the ball joint pad.
I think the uppers were binding and asked them about the travel their joints had, that led me to find out on a 3 inch front drop, the ball joint is above the pivot point of the control arm. And that was causing some wacky UBJ angles, on top of making the camber curve way too extreme.
Intresting. I was curious as some of us lowrider guys mess with taller ball joints to allow for more upward travel and higher "lockup" of the front end with hydraulics. The taller ball joint allows the arms to travel further down as they give more travel before the upper A arm hits the frame. Some guys run as tall as 3" which is insane and puts a ton of stress on the steering and you also can't fully lower the car as the stress on the angle of the extension can cause them to snap. So a lot of guys run a taller coil to not allow it to drop so much. But then the car sits super high all the time. It's really a trade off for the end result look your going for. I asked as I heard the 1" taller ones from SSM were really strong and a good set up...plus heard they can polish up like chrome...not sure how true that it's.
Here is an LS Monte with 3"..maybe even 4" extensions. Lifts super high, but look at the steering linkage. That is insane stress on the whole system. Not hating as I love that car..it has plexi-glass floors to show all the work lol!
1000010111.jpg
 

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor