What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]

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Decided to spend some quality time with my new Miller 215 to get a feel for it before doing some body panel repair/replace and discovered that the wire feed was malfunctioning. Gas is supposed to flow before the wire goes hot but the wire feed was lagging for a few seconds before coming up to speed. Meanwhile the wire that slowly was appearing was still hot which meant that it ended up melting down all the way back into the nozzle. The unit goes back to the dealer for some time in the service shop. New enough that there is a warranty on it. Me? Going back to my old reliable FWAC rigged Lincoln. New fangled technology anyway..... Meh.

Nick
 
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It could be better but meh it's a work truck. Couple ( maybe 6 or so ) hours in prep, primer then paint ( all Rustoleum ). First picture is after blasting and a vinegar treatment. Grease up the rubber ( so you dont have to mask ). Primer, then paint, then next day blast the paint off the rubber.

They still need a wipe down to get the last of the grease and paint off the wheels but looks so much better.

Measured the rusty box bottoms yesterday. Figure it will be easier to get someone else to cut and bend the bottoms of the cabinets. Then we will cut out the whole bottom of each cabinet and burn them in. Short turn pain for long term gain. With there being only 109 thousand kms ( 68 or so thousand miles ) on this truck I figure if we take care of all the rusties on it now and undercoat it really should \ could outlast me.
 

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Remember the 1980 Trans Am that the engine filled with water? (Doing the unstuck) Well we finally got the subframe fixed by welding in steel plates where the bushings attached. Energy Suspension poly bushings are now in place. Now we could get the front end done. I sourced a full set of MOOG ball joints, Delphi steering drag link/tie rod ends/idler arm, Energy Suspension poly control arm bushings/ sway bar bushings/end links and a set of lightly used 1977 Trans Am 400 springs from a friend. I used Ridgewood Auto Spring in Ridegewood, Queens to do all the front end work and give it an alignment. Brian charged us $600 for all that labor which I consider a very fair price. Now the car sits level and steers straight- something that was lacking. Next: transmission replacement and glass re-bedding.
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Decided to spend a little time and get the trouble lights on the dash turned off on the New Beetle. Changed out a wheel speed sensor, only to find out that the wires had got water in them and turned the copper into pink powder for about 8 inches up the cable. Guess it had been broke for a while... The replacement cable was about $130 at the parts store, but I managed to eBay a new connector and pigtail for $13. Got that installed and the ABS and traction control lights are now off.

A bad oxygen sensor was making the check engine light come on and when I was replacing it, I cleaned the female threads with a wire brush and started the car for a few seconds to blow all the debris out. When I did this, the EPC (limp mode) light came on and the accelerator pedal stopped working completely. I finished the install and pulled the codes, and found Accelerator Pedal Sensor Implausible Values codes. I am guessing when I jacked the car up, I may have flexed the body in a way that aggravated some rodent damaged wiring. I will dig a little farther into it, but this one may go to the dealer to be healed.
 
Maybe this isn't the absolute correct place for this post but this is what I am doing ( I just came in to cool off #summerinTX)

Picked this 97 F250 up for a friend in Michigan. He wanted a crew cab to haul his kids around in. Getting it ready to drive up there. 160K miles. One owner. 460 AOD. 2wd
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I won't tell you what it cost but it was so cheap, you'd be hard pressed to buy a ragged out G-Body for the same money and it's as nice inside as out. No leaks. As close to perfect as I've ever seen and I am PICKY.
 
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