What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2020]
- Thread starter Bonnewagon
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Finally managed to get the outer cab corner skin installed on my S-10. Plan A would have been to Mig weld it in but still having the box mounted killed that option. Went with a hybrid version; Got the inside face of the skin all cleaned of EDP and wiped down with lacquer thinner and managed to make a sanding paddle that I could staple sandpaper to and resanded the inner skin to remove the flash rust that had appeared due to high humidity of the last few weeks and wiped that down too. Owner at the local autobody supply shop carries a line of two part panel adhesive that comes in a small tube version with the matching mixing gun and I took that and liberally applied it to the inside face of the new outer where it comes against the inner and used a pair of wooden wedges to push it plus a couple of pk screws drilled into position through pre punched plug weld holes to hold the rest of the skin in place while the adhesive cures and sets. The plan now is to take the weekend off and heal up a little; the weather is supposed to cooperate by being cold and wet for Saturday at least.
Nick
Nick
Was cleaning the bench of those nasty little spiders, and stumbled across a pencil gear for the Muncie. I think the old one is a bit worn? Fingers crossed 🤞
I got bored and was feeling all sunshine and rainbows, so, yes, I flipped the shift lever over. Took all of 10 minutes.
Scummit keeps teasing me with delivery times; new speedo gear won't be in until tomorrow.
Ordered a new power steering pump and belt for the Rusterado, too.
UPDATE EDIT: measured the 2 speedo gears, and there was .040 difference between the 2. Stuck the one off the bench in, and the speedo works! #smallvictories I'll put the new one in for insurance, but, so far, i don't have to pull the transmission. Airbags are coming, too.....
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About time, sheesh.
Here's an attempted copy paste.
So the AC no longer works and there is no evidence of leakage. Guess it's time for the black light. In other news, check out this junkyard haul.
Super piddly crap. Plus a battery and a sidepost conversion to the existing ghetto rig.
Also, here's the old broken correct handle on the right and the wrong one on the left. I grabbed the correct handle today and got it in with the tumbler. I soaked the door panels in tide detergent and pressure washed them. They go back on tomorrow and my list falls to fewer than 5 things before I stick a for sale sign in this pig. None of the remaining issues are big deals.
This is all on my 98 K3500 flipper dually. I'm damn fuggin close to unloading this thing. It's a clean solid truck.
Hey! She wants bald she can just go and shave herself naked. Me, I am keeping my fur and staying warm in the winter to come. (Dumb-*ss Manscape Pop-up advert.)
So today was back to the welder day for my S-10. The panel adhesive worked as advertised so I went ahead and filled in all the cute little holes that I made in the panel for plug welds. Ground the whole mess down to flat and then went on to do some more welding and grinding on the door sill. With that I have to be careful because there is still foam sound deadener in spots and that stuff lights off if you even just point a work light at it!
Have a few more welds to lay in and some finish grinding to do before heading underneath and mating the bottom seam of the innie and outie together. That will probably take a day by itself to tease those two into acting nice with each other. Still have one exhaust pipe to work on and the frame rails to strip and repaint/rust coat for winter. ODTAA.
Nick
So today was back to the welder day for my S-10. The panel adhesive worked as advertised so I went ahead and filled in all the cute little holes that I made in the panel for plug welds. Ground the whole mess down to flat and then went on to do some more welding and grinding on the door sill. With that I have to be careful because there is still foam sound deadener in spots and that stuff lights off if you even just point a work light at it!
Have a few more welds to lay in and some finish grinding to do before heading underneath and mating the bottom seam of the innie and outie together. That will probably take a day by itself to tease those two into acting nice with each other. Still have one exhaust pipe to work on and the frame rails to strip and repaint/rust coat for winter. ODTAA.
Nick
Today's copy/paste pertains to my driver dually, not the flipper.
Today I wired up the lights on the tow mirrors that I installed back in 2018. I have the signals on front and back and the weak *ss backup lights. Left signal went smooth, right one wouldn't work. I took the door back apart to see why and the damn connector was mispinned. This in addition to the fact that left is right and right is left with the mirror adjustment. I don't believe Boost's claim that they test every mirror. After repinning, it works fine. Next was the reverse lights. Their install video recommends tapping into the harness down by the fuel filter. Umm, no. That's a great place to invite corrosion. Instead I did it up under the hood once I found the damned wire. I could not find it with a test light to save my life even though I knew which one it was, the only light green wire headed to the back of the truck. Looks like the range switch isn't doing its job. So I jumpered power to the backup lights to verify the wire instead, they're all hooked up now but inop because the range switch is an asspain. I have one on hand, they just suck to deal with. Also fixed that previously id'd busted *ss wiring. Turns out that was my rear speakers so they're back now too.
This is what it was before.
And this is what it was before that.
Hopefully the little condoms keep moisture out of the connections. I think I'll be OK as I don't drive this much in the winter. Interior is finally all buttoned back up. Gonna shift my focus back to the flipper again. I got the door panels cleaned up for it. Gonna look better than my drivers!
Today I wired up the lights on the tow mirrors that I installed back in 2018. I have the signals on front and back and the weak *ss backup lights. Left signal went smooth, right one wouldn't work. I took the door back apart to see why and the damn connector was mispinned. This in addition to the fact that left is right and right is left with the mirror adjustment. I don't believe Boost's claim that they test every mirror. After repinning, it works fine. Next was the reverse lights. Their install video recommends tapping into the harness down by the fuel filter. Umm, no. That's a great place to invite corrosion. Instead I did it up under the hood once I found the damned wire. I could not find it with a test light to save my life even though I knew which one it was, the only light green wire headed to the back of the truck. Looks like the range switch isn't doing its job. So I jumpered power to the backup lights to verify the wire instead, they're all hooked up now but inop because the range switch is an asspain. I have one on hand, they just suck to deal with. Also fixed that previously id'd busted *ss wiring. Turns out that was my rear speakers so they're back now too.
This is what it was before.
And this is what it was before that.
Hopefully the little condoms keep moisture out of the connections. I think I'll be OK as I don't drive this much in the winter. Interior is finally all buttoned back up. Gonna shift my focus back to the flipper again. I got the door panels cleaned up for it. Gonna look better than my drivers!
I worked on my "not mine g body project ". Putting together a care package for a kool guy in Texas.
I am definitely a profit for the gmt360 chassis and the wonder they posses.
However one of the things that I can't commend the chassis on is ac compressor maintenance access.
The compressor was stuck when I bought the car 85k miles ago and when dad helped me put it back together he ordered the cheapest compressor on eBay. It started rattling this spring and it turned out to be the clutch bearing. I thought about just swapping the clutch since the pump itself was fine but i found out these compressors really aren't home serviceable and I admitted I had to swap the whole thing.
I knew the project was going to suck and it doesn't disappoint. These chassis aren't really designed from day one to have an LS so pulling the compressor isn't really that fun.
You have to remove the compressor mount from the block, move it forward an inch and then unbolt the compressor from the mount, remove the rad fan and rad hoses and then wiggle it funny to sqweeze the compressor out separate from the mount. That was after removing the air box and window washer resovior too.
Biggest punch in the gut was putting it together and then going underneath to install the last two bottom bolts in and realized I have to install it loose through the compressor before I tighten the mount to the block since the bolt is too long and it hits the frame.
Pulled a vac on the system and if it holds I'll charge it. Dumb ac seal kit I ordered didn't include the suction side hose to compressor seal so I reused the old one that didn't look that great so hopefully it holds.
Also did an oil change so I'm slowly knocking stuff out. I need to weld the last patch in the frame and swap out the other upper rear control arm along with changing the tcase AWD actuator before winter.
However one of the things that I can't commend the chassis on is ac compressor maintenance access.
The compressor was stuck when I bought the car 85k miles ago and when dad helped me put it back together he ordered the cheapest compressor on eBay. It started rattling this spring and it turned out to be the clutch bearing. I thought about just swapping the clutch since the pump itself was fine but i found out these compressors really aren't home serviceable and I admitted I had to swap the whole thing.
I knew the project was going to suck and it doesn't disappoint. These chassis aren't really designed from day one to have an LS so pulling the compressor isn't really that fun.
You have to remove the compressor mount from the block, move it forward an inch and then unbolt the compressor from the mount, remove the rad fan and rad hoses and then wiggle it funny to sqweeze the compressor out separate from the mount. That was after removing the air box and window washer resovior too.
Biggest punch in the gut was putting it together and then going underneath to install the last two bottom bolts in and realized I have to install it loose through the compressor before I tighten the mount to the block since the bolt is too long and it hits the frame.
Pulled a vac on the system and if it holds I'll charge it. Dumb ac seal kit I ordered didn't include the suction side hose to compressor seal so I reused the old one that didn't look that great so hopefully it holds.
Also did an oil change so I'm slowly knocking stuff out. I need to weld the last patch in the frame and swap out the other upper rear control arm along with changing the tcase AWD actuator before winter.
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