For anyone wondering what just happened, this is the picture that was supposed to lead off the montage that I tried to create above. The caption is there, but the picture itself disappeared during the loading process. So, if at first you don't succeed, throw things at the medium and try to redo the message over again. And away we go.............................
For those who like pictures, what you see here is the new cab corner for my 03 S-10 with a thin layer of spot putty applied over the filler material. The purpose of this is simply to catch and fill all the scratches and minor low spots that the eyes miss but the fingers find. Most, about 95% of what you see here will get sanded off, starting with 180 production and finishing it off with 240 wet-n-dry used dry.
And this is what you get when it is all sanded out and the first coat of primer filler is laid down. The seeming light spot is actually a reflection of one of my LED work lights. Great units, solid state means they can get knocked over or subjected to a rain of sparks and still do their thing. I will let this coat dry over night due to less than optimal temperatures and throw a second coat at it tomorrow. Once that is dry, they both get sanded down using a block and then a third coat gets shot and finally primer sealer before the color shot.
Since this shot got taken, a second coat of primer was shot and allowed to dry and then both coats got sanded down. This sanding revealed one or two spots where a little remedial work had to occur. Nothing major, an edge that hadn't feathered completely and a couple of tiny crevasses that needed touching up. This all got done and then 4 more coats of primer were shot, I am not shooting heavy, the shop heat has not been turned on yet, so flash time is longer than otherwise would be the case. With the cooler air, you have to wait a little longer for the primer to flash, or tweak the mix if you are shooting gun. All these new shots were light with multiple repetitions. They will get to dry overnight and then back to sanding. The first time the paper was 240 dry; this time it might be 240 again or maybe 320, dry. The 320 gives up a finer surface but clogs faster so a lot of paper gets used. If what results is acceptable then the next coat will be primer/sealer and after that, the money shot, color.
Oh, yeah, today's other non-g project was stripping the second of the 47 tanks. No pictures for that one. The paint came off easily with the DA, but what appeared from beneath it was not encouraging. This particular tank and its mate had serious dings when I acquired them and the filler of choice back was a catalyzed aluminum product for which the catalyst is no longer available, Toxic, much? Anyway, with no other ready means of pulling the curves back into position, the dings got filled. This time around, my Christmas present to me might be a pin gun and puller. Use the tank as a guinea pig to see if I can get the dent to come back to normal.
Nick
For those who like pictures, what you see here is the new cab corner for my 03 S-10 with a thin layer of spot putty applied over the filler material. The purpose of this is simply to catch and fill all the scratches and minor low spots that the eyes miss but the fingers find. Most, about 95% of what you see here will get sanded off, starting with 180 production and finishing it off with 240 wet-n-dry used dry.
And this is what you get when it is all sanded out and the first coat of primer filler is laid down. The seeming light spot is actually a reflection of one of my LED work lights. Great units, solid state means they can get knocked over or subjected to a rain of sparks and still do their thing. I will let this coat dry over night due to less than optimal temperatures and throw a second coat at it tomorrow. Once that is dry, they both get sanded down using a block and then a third coat gets shot and finally primer sealer before the color shot.
Since this shot got taken, a second coat of primer was shot and allowed to dry and then both coats got sanded down. This sanding revealed one or two spots where a little remedial work had to occur. Nothing major, an edge that hadn't feathered completely and a couple of tiny crevasses that needed touching up. This all got done and then 4 more coats of primer were shot, I am not shooting heavy, the shop heat has not been turned on yet, so flash time is longer than otherwise would be the case. With the cooler air, you have to wait a little longer for the primer to flash, or tweak the mix if you are shooting gun. All these new shots were light with multiple repetitions. They will get to dry overnight and then back to sanding. The first time the paper was 240 dry; this time it might be 240 again or maybe 320, dry. The 320 gives up a finer surface but clogs faster so a lot of paper gets used. If what results is acceptable then the next coat will be primer/sealer and after that, the money shot, color.
Oh, yeah, today's other non-g project was stripping the second of the 47 tanks. No pictures for that one. The paint came off easily with the DA, but what appeared from beneath it was not encouraging. This particular tank and its mate had serious dings when I acquired them and the filler of choice back was a catalyzed aluminum product for which the catalyst is no longer available, Toxic, much? Anyway, with no other ready means of pulling the curves back into position, the dings got filled. This time around, my Christmas present to me might be a pin gun and puller. Use the tank as a guinea pig to see if I can get the dent to come back to normal.
Nick
