Put in some more time on the 75/3 Trans Am yesterday. A couple more hours of wiring, and it should be ready to fire. It's Holley Sniper practice for the 442
What did you do to your non-G body project today? [2021]
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Rear end swapping. Well gear swapping here.
The drop-top is getting the 3.54's from the '29, fresh black PC'd center + axle tubes, & a Mitchell OD unit.
The '29 Tudor is getting the factory 3.78's from the drop-top & an updated/modified 4spd (4th is a .74 final drive gear).
The '29 is getting a freshly machine block set-up. The '30 drop-top is just getting re-fresh re-using the current bottom end w/the upgraded 'B' spec parts up top.
Both cars will have about the same final drive ratio & will be able to cruise the highway @ 70mph/2100rpm w/o issue (as far as the drivetrain is concerned). The modified 4spd gives you updated features (synchronizers) but requires cutting the frame for install & radius-rod/torque-tube mods (shortening). The Mitchell utilizes the OE 3spd's simplicity, doesn't require cutting the frame/chassis, & has the modified torque-tube included as part of the kit. It also has the benefit of splitting the gears. We picked the unit up 2nd hand but it was never installed/un-used @ less than 1/2 the cost of the 4spd option.
Also got a stock '32 front axle (basically a 2" drop vs the stock '30 unit). It was pulled from a car getting a 4" dropped axle set-up & has everything already in place to swap under the '30 including juice/hyd brakes. Will be scouring the web for dropped leaf set-ups (F & R) next.....
The drop-top is getting the 3.54's from the '29, fresh black PC'd center + axle tubes, & a Mitchell OD unit.
The '29 Tudor is getting the factory 3.78's from the drop-top & an updated/modified 4spd (4th is a .74 final drive gear).
The '29 is getting a freshly machine block set-up. The '30 drop-top is just getting re-fresh re-using the current bottom end w/the upgraded 'B' spec parts up top.
Both cars will have about the same final drive ratio & will be able to cruise the highway @ 70mph/2100rpm w/o issue (as far as the drivetrain is concerned). The modified 4spd gives you updated features (synchronizers) but requires cutting the frame for install & radius-rod/torque-tube mods (shortening). The Mitchell utilizes the OE 3spd's simplicity, doesn't require cutting the frame/chassis, & has the modified torque-tube included as part of the kit. It also has the benefit of splitting the gears. We picked the unit up 2nd hand but it was never installed/un-used @ less than 1/2 the cost of the 4spd option.
Also got a stock '32 front axle (basically a 2" drop vs the stock '30 unit). It was pulled from a car getting a 4" dropped axle set-up & has everything already in place to swap under the '30 including juice/hyd brakes. Will be scouring the web for dropped leaf set-ups (F & R) next.....
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I kinda sorta fvck3d up pretty bad at my first race event of the season.
The Red Bull box covers 1 bit of my indiscretion.
It looks like I pushed the front of the car over, I'll know more when I yank that fender. Rear quarter got some too.
This takes me outside of my comfort zone. I'm not looking forward to dealing with it. My first thought is get a stud gun and pull the leading edge forward. Over the winter I could cut the majority of the panel out, flange a replacent, and zap it in. Again, well outside my comfort zone.
The Red Bull box covers 1 bit of my indiscretion.
It looks like I pushed the front of the car over, I'll know more when I yank that fender. Rear quarter got some too.
This takes me outside of my comfort zone. I'm not looking forward to dealing with it. My first thought is get a stud gun and pull the leading edge forward. Over the winter I could cut the majority of the panel out, flange a replacent, and zap it in. Again, well outside my comfort zone.
Stain and 1 coat of varnish on the window trim for the egress windows.
Looking forward to evict the wood from the garage.
Looking forward to evict the wood from the garage.
My wife had to hit a dump truck to do that to a quarter panel on her 4th Gen Camaro. WTF did you hit?
Beat it out from the inside and add some camo-wrap over your sins.
I hit another Camaro. I had to dig into my datalog to figure out what I did wrong. The new brakes are nothing short of AMAZING. Pedal height is the same every single time. I still got pad fade though so need to change compounds for the next race. I wanted to keep the same compound for this one so as to only change 1 thing at a time in terms of addressing the shortcomings of my braking system. The flipside is that I get a ton of feedback through the pedal and I misinterpreted what I was feeling. I thought I was starting to lock the fronts, so trailed off a little which caused me to close in hard on the leader. I had been running him down the prior 2-3 laps and was getting good and close to him. I had the fast lap of the weekend in the race prior and the fastest lap of that race right before I hit him. I'd been getting into that particular corner (118mph down to 38mph) cleaner than him and hit the same top speed as the lap prior, hit the brakes in the same spot with the same amount of force, and just panicked because I thought I was going to hit him then I did just that. I zigged when I should have zagged. It would have been better to rear end him and spin him out than to have sent it into the side of his car. My hope was I could get inside of him and trail the rest of the speed down but that didn't happen. The rate of deceleration is significant when it's on point. This is also a terrible spot to push a dent from the back. There's zero direct access to the back side. You can kind of sort of contort your arm through the speaker hole and around the next panel that's in the way and then do nothing because you can't put an @$$ into it. My friend sent me an Amazon pic of a giant magnetic bandaid, I'm thinking of going that route too.
Agreed. Cut the panel where accessible to remove the damage outer skin. This gives you access to work on areas that are non-accessible. Bang/pull as needed. Flatten the removed panel as much as possible & put it back on or cut another slightly larger skin from a yard donor.
I never thought of cutting it out, beating on it, and zapping it back in. I like that if nothing else for a short term solution. Gives me the opportunity to chop off excess because I know for sure it oil canned
If it can't be hammered somewhat back into shape, it @ least gives you a general template of what you need to remove from a donor & access to spots you wouldn't otherwise be able to reach.
What could I use to hammer it back down without leaving witness marks of the tool that I used? I'm thinking maybe a 2x4?
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