What did you do to your non g-body project today [2025 edition]

working on the electric window motor on my limo's driver/passenger partition window, figured out why it wasn't going up or down...

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called the parts supplier, explained it...."oh yeah, we've seen some defects. we'll send you a new set!" pssd me off but at least I didn't have to argue with them about it
 
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naw, more like this...

Why do I feel like the back has seen some things.....
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All of the new suspension goodies showed up for my Ram 2500 today. New Thuren fab soft rate coils, leaf springs, sway bar and shackles. These should only lift it about 1-2 inches. Looking forward to installing these soon!
 
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Finally had an epiphany moment in the mystery of how to wire a relay into the AFR circuit. Innovate insists on having one present to help the gauge perform as it is supposed to but the where, a in where to get a clean and constant electricial signal from the ignition circuit itself was proving ot be a MPITA as the mfgr insisted it had to be in the ignition circuit and suggested invading the plug to the key switch to get it. That was a total non-starter given the switch is in the dash, not the column, and access is only by way of dissecting out the complete gauge cluster which by itself is a time glutton.

So it finally occurred to me that I might be able to infiltrate the ignition circuit at the distributor by tapping into the battery + terminal on the coil. (HEI). Turns out that that was where I tried to harvest power for the FI Tech EFI and the stump of the lead was still embedded with the terminal plug. A quick check with a light probe and the tester lit up when the key was kicked over to run so that was all good.

The plan now is acquire some 12 gauge primary wire to match the existing color of the lead to the coil and create a loop that takes a detour out to the stud on the auxiliary power tap and then comes back to the coil. All this will need 12 ga AWG to match what was used in the original harness, which is a pain because I will have to change from Deutsch plugs to Weatherpack because the D-packs quit at 14 ga apps and to go heavier means the W-packs. Bother. An--nyway, from the stud I can add a plus or jumper of the same gauge wire that will feed the actuating side of the relay, and that completes the basic wiring to get the O2 sensor up and running. It will still need another separate ground lead and there is a wire that should get attached to the headlight circuit for nigtht times but they are pending. Doing nothing can be a drag but at least the mind can continue to work and, like that proverbial blind squirrel, find a nut from time to time.


Nick
 
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Finally had an epiphany moment in the mystery of how to wire a relay into the AFR circuit. Innovate insists on having one present to help the gauge perform as it is supposed to but the where, a in where to get a clean and constant electricial signal from the ignition circuit itself was proving ot be a MPITA as the mfgr insisted it had to be in the ignition circuit and suggested invading the plug to the key switch to get it. That was a total non-starter given the switch is in the dash, not the column, and access is only by way of dissecting out the complete gauge cluster which by itself is a time glutton.

So it finally occurred to me that I might be able to infiltrate the ignition circuit at the distributor by tapping into the battery + terminal on the coil. (HEI). Turns out that that was where I tried to harvest power for the FI Tech EFI and the stump of the lead was still embedded with the terminal plug. A quick check with a light probe and the tester lit up when the key was kicked over to run so that was all good.

The plan now is acquire some 12 gauge primary wire to match the existing color of the lead to the coil and create a loop that takes a detour out to the stud on the auxiliary power tap and then comes back to the coil. All this will need 12 ga AWG to match what was used in the original harness, which is a pain because I will have to change from Deutsch plugs to Weatherpack because the D-packs quit at 14 ga apps and to go heavier means the W-packs. Bother. An--nyway, from the stud I can add a plus or jumper of the same gauge wire that will feed the actuating side of the relay, and that completes the basic wiring to get the O2 sensor up and running. It will still need another separate ground lead and there is a wire that should get attached to the headlight circuit for nigtht times but they are pending. Doing nothing can be a drag but at least the mind can continue to work and, like that proverbial blind squirrel, find a nut from time to time.


Nick

Why not pull your current directly from the battery and use that coil wire for actuation only? Or am I not quite picking up what you're putting down?
 
This is more for shop organization than the Elk, so I'm posting here. I really needed to address this right away and get some of these wheels to a guy:

IMG_20250311_181722987.jpg

So I picked up a Daytona steel cross beam for one of my hydraulic jacks. Ya know, this deal from H.F.:

Screenshot_20250311-210111~2.png

Apparently it's intended for jacks with cups that screw on, and mine just slip fit. That meant a bolt and nut were needed, and a 4" long 1" dia. cap screw fit the bill, though not perfectly. It also only fits the hole on one of my jacks, and luckily there's no obstruction to tightening the nut. Without a socket large enough I just used a Crescent wrench to tighten it into place with the beam twisted against the jack handle. It still pivots and extends freely. A 6x6 aided in the lifting process, though the cups are adjustable and also gave height to a jack I pulled from a dumpster long ago. Note Gina's brake fluid puddle (left) and trans fluid puddle (right).

IMG_20250311_181643628_HDR.jpgIMG_20250311_181658774.jpg

The block was long enough to contact both lower control arms, preventing the suspension from drooping as I raised the car. It made pulling the wheels out very easy as opposed to maxing out the jack and simultaneously using far too many boards. Which, uh, is how it got up there in the first place. That El Camino dropped to the floor numerous times when I drunkenly struggled to set it atop those wheels/ tires long ago, and this is INFINITELY BETTER. Now I've got a tiny bit more room, 6 fewer wheels & tires, and a new tool that'll help me relocate the '86 truck cab.

IMG_20250311_201625401.jpgIMG_20250311_201554861.jpg

Any bets on what's in the fridge? It's been so long that I honestly don't remember. And try not to be jealous of my Batman sheet on the Elk.
 
This is more for shop organization than the Elk, so I'm posting here. I really needed to address this right away and get some of these wheels to a guy:

View attachment 252941

So I picked up a Daytona steel cross beam for one of my hydraulic jacks. Ya know, this deal from H.F.:

View attachment 252940

Apparently it's intended for jacks with cups that screw on, and mine just slip fit. That meant a bolt and nut were needed, and a 4" long 1" dia. cap screw fit the bill, though not perfectly. It also only fits the hole on one of my jacks, and luckily there's no obstruction to tightening the nut. Without a socket large enough I just used a Crescent wrench to tighten it into place with the beam twisted against the jack handle. It still pivots and extends freely. A 6x6 aided in the lifting process, though the cups are adjustable and also gave height to a jack I pulled from a dumpster long ago. Note Gina's brake fluid puddle (left) and trans fluid puddle (right).

View attachment 252943View attachment 252944

The block was long enough to contact both lower control arms, preventing the suspension from drooping as I raised the car. It made pulling the wheels out very easy as opposed to maxing out the jack and simultaneously using far too many boards. Which, uh, is how it got up there in the first place. That El Camino dropped to the floor numerous times when I drunkenly struggled to set it atop those wheels/ tires long ago, and this is INFINITELY BETTER. Now I've got a tiny bit more room, 6 fewer wheels & tires, and a new tool that'll help me relocate the '86 truck cab.

View attachment 252942View attachment 252945

Any bets on what's in the fridge? It's been so long that I honestly don't remember. And try not to be jealous of my Batman sheet on the Elk.

If it's been that long, whatever's in the fridge may well have planned an attack at this point. I'd say don't open that door unarmed when the time comes.
 
If it's been that long, whatever's in the fridge may well have planned an attack at this point. I'd say don't open that door unarmed when the time comes.
Barking at the wind just ain't cutting it anymore so I guess I'm goin' in!
 

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